UKC

So sad to hear the inventor of the Moac has gone. Introduced many to outdoor Education in Bangor, wrote the first English guide to the Ecrin alps, was there at the start of the British Guides, did a bit of cycling (one of his sons is Dave). Mainly he was a big character. 

In reply to Matt Podd:

The Moac, what a fine legacy A comfort in scary places.

In reply to Matt Podd:

The moac, best nut ever invented 

In reply to Matt Podd:

Sad indeed, lots of first ascents too, classics like Scavenger on Three Cliffs. 

In reply to Matt Podd: A Moac saved me when I took a 40ft fall from the crux of Athanor on Goat Crag back in the eighties! A good catch by my climbing partner Dave Stainthorpe but the Whillans harness I was wearing gave me some rather nasty bruises in my nether regions!

In reply to Matt Podd: I climbed Scavenger today with my son, been waiting till he was old enough to get up it. Awesome climb. I was telling him how John made his own gear when we were sat at the old peg belay at the top!

In reply to Matt Podd:

Lovely climb (the very first I ever did on the Gower on university climbing club trip in 1969); made all the better - re Brailsford - by the fact that (IIRC) the first nut you get on above the crux is a perfect MOAC.

In reply to Matt Podd:

This post should never have been placed in a forum with likes and dislikes, and people writing about personal reminiscences of Moacs. It should be a tribute to John whom I knew well and climbed with and whose passing I regret as a person. There was a post a few years ago which had him in the top influential British climbers of his time and that is how we should remember him. As I think the OP intended.

In reply to jcw:

Yes. 

In reply to Matt Podd:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122176176/john-brailsford-the-o...

In reply to jcw:

Agreed. To get back on track, I met John at a friend's BBQ, below John's house in Vigneaux some years ago when I moved to live in the Alps. I had used his guide book for years and it was a pleasure to meet the author. He was full of enthusiasm for the mountains and never once mentioned his son who was making a big name for himself with British Cycling and the domination of the Skye team, so I never linked the two until recent years. I had also climbed Scavenger on several occasions and have many happy memories of Three Cliffs Bay, without linking him to the route so would like to posthumously thank him for this gem.

I don't know of the epic adventures he must have survived over the years as a climber and hope some turn up on here, but I did hear a funny story of how my friend Helen, his caring neighbour, had to dig him out of an 'avalanche' in his garden a couple of winters ago, when snow fell off his house roof!

In reply to Matt Podd:

I met him in 1970 in Tremadog car park; he and Chris Fitzhugh were joshing each other about who had done which First British Ascents in the Alps that summer. I was awestruck; and still am. The stuff the likes of he and Chris were doing, with just 300' of half inch hawser laid, a bag of mild steel pegs, and a straight pick axe, was amazing.

Perrin made an affectionate jibe at him once: 'Before he became as bald as a tortoise and with a neck as retractable.' The implication being, of course, that it wasn't always so.

In reply to nutstory:

Excellent picture of John holding the Snowdon  Mouldings curver: just as I remember him.

But I am a bit puzzled by the relationship with Mo Anthoine who made axes just like that and same  color  which he gave me and my wife as wedding presents. Was this some sort of joint effort? 

Would be really interested if you can throw light on this 

In reply to jcw:

Those of us who went through the OE course at Bangor Normal have fond memories of JB even though he scared the crap out of some of us at times. 

I have not so fond experiences of some of the college axes which I believe he dropped the picks on. Some were a bit bendy!

In reply to Stairclimber:

I too met John Brailsford socially a few times, at his house in Les Vigneaux, ours in La Bâtie des Vigneaux and on the 2014 occasion of the commemoration of the first ascent of the Barre des Écrins 150 years earlier. He gave a well-received speech (one of many) in the square in Vallouise that evening.  I am in the process of getting the Dauphiné newspaper to acknowledge his recent death; he deserves to be remembered locally considering his unique position as an English guide in the area which he made his home.  I shall also contribute an obituary to the Alpine Club.  Any information of particular relevance would be welcome.

In reply to Fruit:

Aw. Thanks

In reply to Albert Tatlock:

Too kind

In reply to Susan Hare:

Hope you have more luck with the Dauphine than I've had. Here in  Chamonix it seems to have no correspondent and fails to reply any approaches. Perhaps now the Covid situation has waned it is more reactive: I've stopped my subscription.

In reply to Susan Hare:

Thank you for your efforts with the Dauphiné. I feel that many friends and acquaintances here in France are unaware of his passing. We had been friends with John upwards 30 years, but lost touch during the successive lockdowns. Have you thought of doing a piece for the Club Alpin Français as well?

Mary Flandin

In reply to Moacs:

Me too.

In reply to moac:

Mike has posted his obituary here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/thread/obituary_of_john_brailsford_and_st...

In reply to Stairclimber:

yes I did hear from JOhn about the roof fall avalanche 

In reply to jcw:

John actually designed the head of the Snowden axe and did a lot of QC when it was made in Stubia see my account https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IJrV03yL_VbbDyQDXXd0Ll6a4ehaGqMO4RBITy3...

In reply to mikeatomm:

sounds interesting (I still have an early 'curver') but site says I don't have permission to access the document

In reply to jcw:

It looks as though I may be successful.  Wheels are turning; I have made contact with a responsive journalist.  I'll post information if this does indeed work out.

In reply to Doug:

Me too