UKC

/ Joshua Tree - alternative venue

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TonyB - on 09 Jan 2019

Eeks, a mate and I are flying to San Diego tomorrow and were planning on going bouldering in Joshua Tree. Just found out that the park is shut due to environmental problems and the government shut down. 

I don't know the area so we need a plan B. I'd really appreciate some advice if anyone knows the area. I assume that there isn't much bouldering nearby just outside the park. Any suggestions of good places to visit in SoCal (either sport or boulder).

Cheers, Tony

TonyB - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

PS. need to leave at 8.30 tomorrow.

Graeme Hammond - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Sorry I don't have any usefully advice but just looked at the unknown photo in your gallery  https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=277451

And it is Button Wall (HVD)

Lurking Dave - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Bishop?

John Cuthbert - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to Lurking Dave:

Yep, Buttermilks near Bishop, CA, are outstanding..

 

John C

 

TonyB - on 09 Jan 2019
In reply to Lurking Dave:

Is Bishop OK in January?

It's also a pain as I have to be in San Diego for a few days in the middle. I was also thinking of Red Rocks.

 

 

Post edited at 23:52
TonyB - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to John Cuthbert:

Great. Just called Bishop visitor office and the bouldering is all open. I think we'll do this. The other option would be sport climbing at Mountains of the Moon on the Mexico boarder. But all the pads are packed up and I'm going to bed.

joeldering on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Bishop is amazing in January, you'll have a great time! 

Pleasant Valley Pit is a great place to camp, Bishop Burger Barn was quality, and Mountain Rambler Brewery has awesome beer.

Post edited at 00:41
PeakDJ on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

> It's also a pain as I have to be in San Diego for a few days in the middle. I was also thinking of Red Rocks.

 

I've done that a few times while on business in San Diego and it's fine.  Red Rocks was good in Feb when we were there, so fine in Jan I would imagine.

There are also some granite crags closer to SD, which might work for a weekend?

 

alan moore - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Is Tahquitz Rock (I probably spelt that wrong) nearer to San Diego. Californian granite climbing area ....

TonyB - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to all

I looked at Tahquitz rock. It looks quite cold in Jan and mostly trad. The person that I'm going with doesn't climb trad.

Our plan is to stick with bouldering gear. We'll go to Bishop before the work commitment and then either locally or J-Tree after (if it is open)

Thanks for your suggestions. Bishop has been on the list of venues that I'd like to get to at some stage. So now is the chance.

 

TonyB - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Thanks. I had forgotten about that photo. It was my first time climbing!

In reply to TonyB:

Having written a destination article advocating the wonders of Bishop, the Buttermilks and beyond just last year it would be strange for me to recommend anywhere else ;-)

I defy any warm blooded boulderer not to get psyched when they see the boulders of the Buttermilks. If it's cold up there you can almost guarantee it'll be mint down at the Happy + Sad Boulders. If all else fails just go to the hot springs...

Here's a link to the destination article, just in case: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/bishop_the_buttermilks_and_beyond-11113

 

Post edited at 11:28
paul__in_sheffield - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

FYI Mount Woodson is in SAN Diego county and is a pretty extensive venue, maybe worth checking out on your travels.

paul

Offwidth - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Red Rocks is closer and also really good. Check the main park its still open though. Have they closed Indian Creek at JT?... when the park is closed you can sometimes get in there: it's only about half a mile from the gate to the campsite climbing and bouldering. You could also consider contacting Nomad Ventures or  Joshua Tree Outfitters in JT by email or phone... both supper friendly and their business depends on climbing traffic.

http://joshuatreeoutfitters.com

http://www.nomadventures.com

I'd also post on Mountain Project (and check out alternative venues).

Post edited at 12:48
John Stainforth - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Mount Woodson is a very good area of very compact granite that does not run to holds. There is not much that is easy there (= there was not much I have been able to do on several different visits), so your bouldering ability would determine how much you get out of the place.

Alan Rubin - on 10 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

As above, Mt. Woodson is just outside of San Diego and is a wonderful (and very well-established--in the '80s/'90s it was home to one of the first US bouldering competitions) bouldering venue--with a scattering of short leads/top ropes as well. There are also a number of other reputably very good bouldering areas near San Diego, though Woodson is the only one I have experience with. The weather around San Diego is some of the best in the US. The are good guidebooks which I'm sure can be purchased locally. Both Bishop and Red Rocks are obviously excellent areas but several hours drive from the city and subject to more variable weather at this time of year. Tahquitz is definitely too high up for this time of year--and is a route climbing (trad), not bouldering, destination. There is good bouldering in that general area but, again, too high up to be worth visiting in winter.

TonyB - on 13 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

Thanks to everyone for their input. We're in Bishop and it's awesome. Been at the happy and sad boulders and heading to the Buttermilks tomorrow.

Cheers, tony

Dave Garnett - on 13 Jan 2019
In reply to John Stainforth:

> Mount Woodson is a very good area of very compact granite that does not run to holds. 

Lots of good cracks though!  If you can jam gritstone HVS there are good problems at Woodson to do.

 

 

John Stainforth - on 13 Jan 2019
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Some of the cracks I could do. I was thinking of the more typical bouldering - face climbing and the like.

chris fox on 14 Jan 2019
In reply to TonyB:

If Bishop is a bit cold, then check out Lone Pine (couple of hours south) loads of bouldering, sport and trad on excellent Granite.

Lone Pine is where they film movies, Gladiator was done there plus all those old Gene Autry singing cowboy films.

Quick check of the weather shows 10c and sunny. You also get amazing views of the Sierra Nevada range in the background


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