UKC

Lesser known Verdon - recommendations

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 Andy Moles 23 Mar 2018

Looking, as the title says, for less well-known recommendations in the Verdon Gorge, from around 6b-7a.

I have climbed quite a few of the most famous ones, so I'm not looking for anything that gets three stars in the Rockfax, for example - I already know about those.

Also not quite so interested in single-pitch recommendations, more the longer stuff. Cheers!

 

 French Erick 24 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Moles:

Quinson had some lovely long single pitches but that was 20 years ago and I fear the limestone may well have suffered since then.

 jwi 24 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Moles:

Les Caquous, 6c on Grande Eycharme is great, and a PdL-tick to boot. I'd skip the first A0 pitch.

La voie de 50 cm, 6c/A0. Punishing chimney. Bring lots of draws. I've heard that the neighbouring Hellfest, 7a, is great as well.

Have you done Prise de Cent? It's not bad at all (apart from the second 7a-pitch).

OP Andy Moles 25 Mar 2018
In reply to jwi:

Thanks for those. I have done Hellfest and it is very good, kicked my ass though as it's very sustained.

 jwi 25 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Moles:

Another good classic route in that grade range that maybe doesn't get done so often nowadays is Mangoustine Scatophage. The first pitch is quite polished and feels quite full on for the grade.


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