UKC

Got excited after reading the 'la demande' thread and decided that this year I'm going to venture abroad and do some long trad routes.

So what does everyone recommend?

I climb slickly and smoothly (I think) and can cover ground quickly, and so can my partners.

Happy on trad gear or bolts as long as the routes are great.

Ideally routes where we're not going to get stuck behind people all day.

If you could recommend ideal times of year too that would be great

Yes it's A little vague but I only came up with the idea about 8 minutes ago. 

Deacon

In reply to deacondeacon:

Hmmm.  Most of the really good routes in that grade range are well known... and not for the seeker of solitude.

Maybe some destinations.

Tre Cime (or the Dollies generally)

Salbit

Piz Badile

Gosaukamm

Stetind

Meteora

Pic du Midi

In reply to deacondeacon:

Morocco has thousands of really amazing routes at that grade. Really too many to try and recommend particular routes. Please take the train and ferry though as I would not what to encourage you to damage our fragile climate in pursuit of perfect lines when there are so many available here in the UK.

Anyway in Morocco you'll find multipitches between 2 and 15 pitches high with consistent grades for all pitches. The rock is solid and the gear plentiful. The angle is generally just off vertical so seems to not favour routes over E2. I only found some very short routes of E3 but maybe I wasn't in the right area.

In reply to mutt:

Cheers for the ideas  

Do you mind me asking how you travelled to Morocco? 

In reply to Deadeye:

Dolomites was actually one of the places I'd been thinking about. I've been there a couple of times on via ferratas and loved it. 

In reply to deacondeacon:

Gran Diedro West Pillar (Buzzi, Calzi) (VI)

You will like the above. No queues, no polish and well out there.....I also heard after the fact you can ab off despite the long walk back being very scenic...

In reply to Stoney Boy:

"like windy buttress...."

Music to my ears  

In reply to deacondeacon:

For a long dry summer day, have a look at this:

https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/import/topos/536_Topo_14567...

In reply to tjekel:

That looks amazing! 

In reply to deacondeacon:

Buy this book and get serious inspired. 

https://www.panico.de/longlines.html 

Granted it's in German so some translation may be required but the topos are very clear. 

40 routes, all with minimum 20 pitches. 

Another excellent one: 

https://www.panico.de/moderne-zeiten.html 

Verdon is a good place for reliable conditions and somewhat shorter routes (up to 400m). 

Dolomites is incredible although you have to luck out a bit with conditions.       

Have fun!   

In reply to deacondeacon:

Check out the Swiss Plaisir guides, lots of multipitch in there. Lots of multipitch rock routes around Mont Blanc massif and Aiguilles Rouges - not all require glacier skills. September is often a good time for Mont Blanc area - quieter routes , less snow around and usually stable weather.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Definitely Northern Norway, but I'd go for Narvik area (Stetind and neighbours) and Tromso area (Kvaloya) rather than Lofoten because there are better known big routes. Lofoten is wonderful but the well known stuff is a bit smaller (1-5 pitches say, with the exception of Presten which is about 10) and more cragging feeling I would say. 

In reply to deacondeacon:

The southern Vercors. The Brenta Group. Grauewand (other than the popular classic route).

In reply to deacondeacon:

Envers -  Envers des Aiguilles - cheap hut, amazing setting, trad but with bolts on the bold bits and the belays, makes you feel like a hardcore alpinist cos all the routes get alpine grades even though they're basically just big cragging...

In reply to deacondeacon:

I've been told that there is a lot of great long trad stuff in northern Spain/Barcelona area. Sorry I don't know too much about it myself.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Dolomites with good weather is paradise. 

In reply to deacondeacon: Well obviously Verdon is a great option, September is a good time to go.

How long are you looking to go for?

A potential itinerary could be to drive down into France and head for the Aiguille Dibona and do South Face Direct (Voie Madier) (TD+ 6a+) and Visite Obligatoire (TD+), or you could look at Voie des Savoyards (TD+) while you are there. Then head to the Ailefroide area and walk up to the Sialouze south west face and try Ventre a terre (TD+), and another day go up to the Magnificent Tete D'aval, lots of options on it, maybe look at Pilier rouge hebdo (TD), or if your strong the classic of the cliff is Ranxerox (7a). Then the 3 hour drive down to Verdon for La Demande (6a), Luna Bong (6c), Voie ULA (6b).