UKC

Hi,

I've been living in Liverpool for the last 30 years. I'm a fairly rubbish climber but think I could have a try at the climbs by these two Scousers.

But does anybody know what they have done? 

Many thanks- ed

The following ticklist would be a good place to start for Kirkus: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=197

Sadly there isn't one for Menlove currently, but if anyone fancies doing one...

Fairly locally, you could have a peek at Helsby and Flake Crack (VS 4c) in particular

Apparently the last climb he did, before he went to war was a severe on Oak Howe.  Oak Howe Crag No idea if it was an FA. 
Maybe worth doing for the historical interest. More so if you sent of from the Roberstson Lamb Hut as he would have.

Flake crack at Helsby as well as being a cracking climb has a very interesting history. Menlove devised a specific training routine which he carried out in the Gym of the Adelphi hotel In Order to send this route

Two books you can get off Amazon: Hands of a Climber by Steve Dean and Menlove by Jim Perrin. Both tell a poignant story about an interesting personality. Just checked the Kirkus book and he did the first ascents of Golden Pillar and Eliminate One at Helsby in the 30s both at VS (without modern gear of course) and both now given E1!

Send this route ? what the el are you talking about.

keith s

What a pathetic mistake! No climber in the 30s would have used the term 'send a climb'. He would said 'send the project'.

Send it where?

Don’t underestimate their routes! Technically they may have reached 5b but the protection techniques they had available were rudimentary. So they would tackle ground based on it’s difficulty rather than it’s safety. On some of their routes that means you go pretty bold.

Kirkus seemed to be attracted to cleaner, slabbier ground, Menlove had an affinity to altogether darker routes at times.

agree wholeheartedly with pasbury.

If you look at any snowdonia guide they're littered with routes by Kirkus and Edwards . If you want to experience the Edwards theme a bit more then cycle from Liverpool to Capel curig with all your gear, climb a few routes , then cycle back.  Include super direct on your itinary and remember when he led it he had no protection and boots of the era. If you screw up the final crux mov, as you hurtle out  of the crack glance to your left as you exit and wave at your second. He was extremely fit  and got up to all sort of escapades in his life. kirkus' routes ,I think, are more like  a vertical game of chess.  

I have toyed with the idea of an Edwards memorial ride, currently there's 4 of us up for the challenge (one of  whom is a psychiatrist ).

Mickledore Grooves VS 4c *** Mickledore Grooves (VS 5a) is a Kirkus route. Fantastic!

Steve

oh I had no intention to lead all of them.  Getting off the ground and to the top is the only ambition. 

Anyone with a more comprehensive list?

thanks in anticipation- ed.

Great slab/ bow shaped slab combination, you can climb in the footsteps of both! 

How about Chimney Route on Cloggy. A first ascent (the only?) by the two.

Actually, there is a Menlove list - though, at a glance, it doesn't look complete to me:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=198

Still a good starting point!

Surely one of Edwards' most famous routes was the desperate 'HVS' Central Gully Direct on Lliwedd? Not on the list.