UKC

/ mallet finger update

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Heike - on 12 Jun 2018

It's been a nightmare as predicted..but I survived (with a grumble or twenty) Did the finger in back in early March or so, I am now in the 13th or 14th week. Recovery has been as slow as predicted by ukc users (and my lovely consultant - although he didn't understand climbing, but the importance of it to me). I have been fairly meticulous (apart from the first couple of weeks when I had a holiday booked to Leonidio) and have followed the advice throughout from my consultant. I am now in a phased taking the splint off  for a few hours and have actually been out climbing (seconding two mountain Severes, an HVS, E1 and E2 in the last ten days - never even using my injured finger.) It's quite a challenge and actually I used my legs a lot more ...I have got sore muscles in my legs and bum ....Next week it's the splint off and the start of leading again! Yeah! What a nightmare for one little injury. I am glad to have paid the extra dosh for seeing the consultant privately. Initially it was just -  put the split on (which was hanging off and didn't do anything) and if it's not better come back in three months time.

 

 

Post edited at 15:48
Andy Nisbet - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Heike:

All the best!

 

Heike - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Thanks, Andy!

Elsier on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Heike:

My finger injury is finally better now too. I did something much more minor (mild collateral ligament sprain I think), but it took ages to heal (did it end of Jan, and only fully healed by end of May), as I kept re-injuring it, until I finally discovered buddy taping.

Anyway the real reason I was posting is to say that despite the initial frustration, I think being injured has probably been good for my climbing. Like you, whilst I was injured I had to focus on using my legs and weighting my feet more, and gripping much more gently, so I didn't hurt my finger. I feel like I'm now climbing better as a result. So maybe every cloud has a silver lining....

Good luck with your rehab, hope you find that you come back stronger too


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