/ mallet finger update
It's been a nightmare as predicted..but I survived (with a grumble or twenty) Did the finger in back in early March or so, I am now in the 13th or 14th week. Recovery has been as slow as predicted by ukc users (and my lovely consultant - although he didn't understand climbing, but the importance of it to me). I have been fairly meticulous (apart from the first couple of weeks when I had a holiday booked to Leonidio) and have followed the advice throughout from my consultant. I am now in a phased taking the splint off for a few hours and have actually been out climbing (seconding two mountain Severes, an HVS, E1 and E2 in the last ten days - never even using my injured finger.) It's quite a challenge and actually I used my legs a lot more ...I have got sore muscles in my legs and bum ....Next week it's the splint off and the start of leading again! Yeah! What a nightmare for one little injury. I am glad to have paid the extra dosh for seeing the consultant privately. Initially it was just - put the split on (which was hanging off and didn't do anything) and if it's not better come back in three months time.
All the best!
My finger injury is finally better now too. I did something much more minor (mild collateral ligament sprain I think), but it took ages to heal (did it end of Jan, and only fully healed by end of May), as I kept re-injuring it, until I finally discovered buddy taping.
Anyway the real reason I was posting is to say that despite the initial frustration, I think being injured has probably been good for my climbing. Like you, whilst I was injured I had to focus on using my legs and weighting my feet more, and gripping much more gently, so I didn't hurt my finger. I feel like I'm now climbing better as a result. So maybe every cloud has a silver lining....
Good luck with your rehab, hope you find that you come back stronger too
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