UKC

Anyone done this peak in the Dollies? Heading in September and intend on doing it. How long is the Glacier Crossing? Amusing Ice axe, crampons are essential for the normal route which makes use of the VF? Cheers

In reply to ANC: We did the glacier in Innov8 & waterproof socks (neil), and merrels with micro spikes (me). Neither were amazing but we got down. 2-3 hours to the road and another hour opr so back to the car (hitching seemed difficult). Can't help with the VF though. Nice refuge and an amazing place to be.

In reply to ANC: I did this route last month. It's about an hour plod through snow (from the top of the lift). That takes you to the via feratta. The via feratta is probably 2.5-3hrs, there were occasional unprotected sections due to snow, but that should have improved by now. The final summit approach is over a short section of snow.

The descent is down the snow field, down a quick section of via feratta, then a plod down the glacier. Probably 2hr descent to the lift station (refugee with beer).

People were using crampons. We used our axes a lot and roped up for the glacier. Accommodation wise we stayed at the refugee on the road side of the dam - it was weird! It was like going back in time. (I can't remember the name of it). There is a more modern refugee across the dam near the lift station (it's pink). Can't remember it's name sorry.

In reply to ANC:

We were up there on Thursday. There is more snow than usual - last year people were abseiling from the bottom of the unnamed VF/protected path leading down to the glacier from the summit in order to reach the glacier, but this year you could step onto the glacier without finishing the VF. We saw more than a dozen other people up there. All had ice axe and crampons apart from one who had boots and ski poles, and he was slipping around a bit. All the people who descended the regular glacier (an hour or two to cross, can't remember) were roped together, because there were crevasses underfoot. It was our first time on a glacier so it was unnerving to use the ice axe and poke through into a void. The path was very well trodden and technically easy, but if you slip you might be knee deep in snow, at least if you are a noob like us. The folk without ropes retraced their steps down the Westgrat VF (the way everyone goes up) where there is a snow crossing but no glacier.