UKC

Did CB on Scafell back in the '80's when the chockstone was still in the great flake. Thought I'd like to try it again this summer by Marr's Variation, but was wondering if there's much in the way of protection? Any info gratefully received.

It's a slightly bold wall climb, there's a couple of small cams on the front of the flake, I think. It's bang on e1 5b, wonderfully positioned delicate climbing.

I don't think now is a good time to try it. 

Thanks for that. I had a feeling it's a bit on the bold side. It's one I have in mind for the coming summer. Don't think I'll be trying it just now Jon!

My memory is straightforward, easy, but bold, E1 5b. 

Word on the street is that the original way is not so bad, even without a big cam. 

Amazing crag. Hopefully we'll get another good summer. 

Thanks. I do remember the chockstone being pretty handy both as a runner and to stand on. Without it I imagine the flake would be a pretty committing sequence of layback moves. The variation might be a bit more my style (hopefully).

I remember the section after the chockstone being the most polished rock I have ever encountered. I off widthed it after deciding that  I could not layback it without maybe falling off.

Tony Marr's route may not go exactly where the guidebook suggests. He has always insisted the variation is easier than the given grade, look around and you might find the easiest option.

Regarding the gear.

I recall a good wire on the face as you leave the crack , which in itself would be enough to allow a clean fall.

There is stuff further on which you have time to fiddle in as the face is not too steep. Keep one rope free for these.

I remember it being very fierce, particularly the first couple of moves above the chockstone. Because the right wall sloped away and the smooth-edged layback flake was so steep (slightly overhanging?) you got locked into a such an extreme layback position that it was quite hard to get any upward momentum. Definitely 5b. My second was unable to follow, even with a very tight rope.

Sounds encouraging, cheers.

I thought the line of Marrs was not obvious. From a retrospective inspection of the guidebook I think I traversed too far left before going up. That way seemed quite bold.

Done it at least two times, agreed not obvious which is the easiest line. 

A classic case of where the ability to climb up and down to probe for a workable solution is a definite advantage.

It'd be interesting to hear what Tony has to say. I'm surprised he hasn't popped up on the thread.

Think his comments are included in that massive coffee table book about Scafell.

Correct - a massively good read too!