/ Most frequently dnf route?
We went up to Creag an Dubh Loch and did Mousetrap.
We were about to do Black Mamba the next day but weather came in. Reading the logbook entries, I'm quite glad we didn't start in suboptimal conditions.
12 of the 60 entries are "dnf".
Is there another route with a higher failure rate than 20%? Let's say routes with more than 50 logs.
In reply to Deadeye:
I think that Green Crack at Ramshaw must be a contender with 19 dnf out of 58 logs.
If you make allowances for those caught out by the weather, I'd guess half of the rest are those who had gone too slow and time caught up on them, and the other half are the ones stuck behind the aforementioned!
Goliath at Burbage South. 28% dnf, 18% dog.
We did this last year (like most things)
I'd be interested if anything's changed....
Edit: three other old threads linked in that thread too, with some interesting anomalies appearing, including one route that has 10 dnf's for every other style put together - failure rate of 1000% !
I failed on King Rat twice.
Firrst time we got to the first belay and the heavens opened. Second time we got the top of the second pitch and the heavens opened.
I'm not going to try for the hat trick.
> one route that has 10 dnf's for every other style put together - failure rate of 1000%!
I don't think that's how percentages work...
I'm surprised one of the classic oft-dogged grit HVSs isn't up there.
Do people always fess up to their failures?
> Do people always fess up to their failures?
I'm not sure why they ever do! OK, I guess if you fail near the top of some multipitch epic (especially if it's for reasons beyond your control) it's fair enough but why do people feel the need to record (and advertise) not being able to get off the ground on some gritstone microroute? (Marmoset comes to mind).
I appreciate the transparency but why the self-flagellation?
It is - Goliath. I'm one of the contributors!
In reply to:
Gin Palace, Slate.
13% redpointed it, the rest ran away. No onsights!
People are basically honest, plus if 4 of your mates watched you fail on a route and they know that you log routes on here there's a good chance they will peek at your log book later, so they'll know if you're being "economical with the truth"
> People are basically honest, plus if 4 of your mates watched you fail on a route and they know that you log routes on here there's a good chance they will peek at your log book later, so they'll know if you're being "economical with the truth"
I'm not suggesting you should lie about the style, but you're not obliged to record it at all.
I often don't record routes I did get up, especially if I've done them before.
But your mates woud know, and, know why
> I appreciate the transparency but why the self-flagellation?
In my case, protection against a failing memory!
> I'm surprised one of the classic oft-dogged grit HVSs isn't up there.
Rainbow Bridge (E4 6b) has over 32% DNF over 280 attempts. So much so it has a 'Rainbow Bridge Diluted' version on the logbooks for the climbing up to the hard downclimb section.
I imagine all DWS have a high failure rate as the ground up style is sort of enforced, and they can be very conditions dependent.
I was thinking something like Flying Buttress Direct or Tody's Wall. Every time I walk past FBD there seems to be someone slumped on a rope on it.
Interesting question, but surely the point becomes a bit moot when you think about pretty much any high-end route (regardless of style). These will all have been projected and will have had many many failed attempts before the eventual first ascent and any repeats subsequent repeats but these attempts won't have been logged.
Silence has had 1 ascent and Ondra reckoned something like 100 attempts so about 1% success rate.
I think most who dare set off up that have a fair chance. It's not easily dogged!
> But your mates woud know, and, know why
You've lost me. I get that you should be honest about not claiming the onsight for any subsequent successful ascent but how much of an attempt are you obliged to record? How about not liking the look of something you spent the entire previous evening in the pub saying would be a piece of piss? Where's the cut-off? Gearing up? The first runner? Half-way? Falling off? What if you reverse without weighting the gear?
> I think most who dare set off up that have a fair chance. It's not easily dogged!
I was thinking dnf in the context of setting off with a swagger, but ending up asking for a rope to be lowered.
Defo a contender for most dangled rope. Maybe there should be a DNF (rescued) option on the logbooks.
Probably a boulder problem like Deliverance - maybe average 10-100 DNFs per day depending if per person or per attempt
Or maybe some sandbag V0 in the Castle
I don’t record Did Not Start, but do for dogged because I can’t remember stuff and in 18 months when my partner says we have done this before I don’t start of thinking everything is fine or when I am having a bad spell I can see that I have got over them in the past, to me there is nothing worse than sandbagging myself ????????
Orpheus Wall at Birchen.
Probably one of the routes I've done most number of times.
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