UKC

/ Most frequently dnf route?

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Deadeye - on 20:04 Thu

We went up to Creag an Dubh Loch and did Mousetrap.

We were about to do Black Mamba the next day but weather came in.  Reading the logbook entries, I'm quite glad we didn't start in suboptimal conditions. 

12 of the 60 entries are "dnf".

Is there another route with a higher failure rate than 20%?  Let's say routes with more than 50 logs.

 

 

Post edited at 20:05
Smelly Fox - on 20:11 Thu
Pursued by a bear - on 20:13 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

How about The Chasm (VS)?

T.

Lemony - on 20:16 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

The Overhanging Crack (E2 5c)

 

259 logs, 54 dnf (20.86%) but more impressive when you consider the 68 dogged (25.25%). That's a failure rate of 46%.

timjones - on 20:36 Thu

 In reply to Deadeye:

I think that Green Crack at Ramshaw must be a contender with 19 dnf out of 58 logs.

Michael Gordon - on 21:14 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

If you make allowances for those caught out by the weather, I'd guess half of the rest are those who had gone too slow and time caught up on them, and the other half are the ones stuck behind the aforementioned!

davidalcock - on 21:17 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

Goliath at Burbage South. 28% dnf, 18% dog.

Just Another Dave - on 21:36 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

We did this last year  (like most things)

 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/most_dnfddogged_summer_routes-640823#x8298543

 

I'd be interested if anything's changed....

 

Edit: three other old threads linked in that thread too, with some interesting anomalies appearing, including one route that has 10 dnf's for every other style put together - failure rate of 1000% !

Post edited at 21:41
Eric9Points - on 22:04 Thu
In reply to Deadeye:

I failed on King Rat twice.

Firrst time we got to the first belay and the heavens opened. Second time we got the top of the second pitch and the heavens opened.

I'm not going to try for the hat trick.

 

teh_mark on 22:22 Thu
In reply to Just Another Dave:

> one route that has 10 dnf's for every other style put together - failure rate of 1000%!

I don't think that's how percentages work...

I'm surprised one of the classic oft-dogged grit HVSs isn't up there.

 

Post edited at 22:23
Tom V - on 00:37 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Do people always fess up to their failures?

Dave Garnett - on 09:16 Fri
In reply to Tom V:

> Do people always fess up to their failures?

I'm not sure why they ever do!  OK, I guess if you fail near the top of some multipitch epic (especially if it's for reasons beyond your control) it's fair enough but why do people feel the need to record (and advertise) not being able to get off the ground on some gritstone microroute? (Marmoset comes to mind). 

I appreciate the transparency but why the self-flagellation?

Hardonicus - on 09:22 Fri
In reply to teh_mark:

It is - Goliath. I'm one of the contributors!

Dan Arkle - on 09:54 Fri

In reply to:

Gin Palace, Slate.

13% redpointed it, the rest ran away. No onsights!

Andy Hardy on 10:15 Fri
In reply to Dave Garnett:

People are basically honest, plus if 4 of your mates watched you fail on a route and they know that you log routes on here there's a good chance they will peek at your log book later, so they'll know if you're being "economical with the truth"

Dave Garnett - on 10:19 Fri
In reply to Andy Hardy:

> People are basically honest, plus if 4 of your mates watched you fail on a route and they know that you log routes on here there's a good chance they will peek at your log book later, so they'll know if you're being "economical with the truth"

I'm not suggesting you should lie about the style, but you're not obliged to record it at all.    

I often don't record routes I did get up, especially if I've done them before.

 

Post edited at 10:25
Andy Hardy on 10:21 Fri
In reply to Dave Garnett:

But your mates woud know, and, know why

Simon Caldwell - on 10:23 Fri
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> I appreciate the transparency but why the self-flagellation?

In my case, protection against a failing memory!

Fredt on 10:34 Fri
In reply to teh_mark:

> I'm surprised one of the classic oft-dogged grit HVSs isn't up there.

3PS?

RockSteady on 10:51 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Rainbow Bridge (E4 6b) has over 32% DNF over 280 attempts. So much so it has a 'Rainbow Bridge Diluted' version on the logbooks for the climbing up to the hard downclimb section.

I imagine all DWS have a high failure rate as the ground up style is sort of enforced, and they can be very conditions dependent.

bpmclimb on 10:58 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Here's a tough one for the grade: at a rough estimate, about 25% dnf/dogged

Bulging Flies (E2 5c)

teh_mark on 11:04 Fri
In reply to Fredt:

I was thinking something like Flying Buttress Direct or Tody's Wall. Every time I walk past FBD there seems to be someone slumped on a rope on it.

SuperLee1985 - on 11:09 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Interesting question, but surely the point becomes a bit moot when you think about pretty much any high-end route (regardless of style). These will all have been projected and will have had many many failed attempts before the eventual first ascent and any repeats subsequent repeats but these attempts won't have been logged.

Silence has had 1 ascent and Ondra reckoned something like 100 attempts so about 1% success rate.

Hardonicus - on 11:10 Fri
In reply to Fredt:

I think most who dare set off up that have a fair chance. It's not easily dogged!

Simon Caldwell - on 11:14 Fri
In reply to teh_mark:

> Every time I walk past FBD there seems to be someone slumped on a rope on it.

On that basis I looked up Quietus (E2 5c) which normally seems to have an in-situ dangler (usually with copious swearing before during and after). About 32% dogged or DNF.

Dave Garnett - on 11:23 Fri
In reply to Andy Hardy:

> But your mates woud know, and, know why

You've lost me.  I get that you should be honest about not claiming the onsight for any subsequent successful ascent but how much of an attempt are you obliged to record?  How about not liking the look of something you spent the entire previous evening in the pub saying would be a piece of piss?  Where's the cut-off?  Gearing up?  The first runner?  Half-way? Falling off?  What if you reverse without weighting the gear?

Fredt on 11:28 Fri
In reply to Hardonicus:

> I think most who dare set off up that have a fair chance. It's not easily dogged!

I was thinking dnf in the context of setting off with a swagger, but ending up asking for a rope to be lowered.

BTDTGTT.

Hardonicus - on 11:34 Fri
In reply to Fredt:

Defo a contender for most dangled rope. Maybe there should be a DNF (rescued) option on the logbooks.

ian Ll-J - on 11:40 Fri
In reply to Hardonicus

I bolted these in the Dinorwic Slate Quarries (Australia), not a single clean ascent listed for either....

Glasgow Kiss (7b+)

Toe be or not Toe be... (7b)

trouserburp - on 12:00 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Probably a boulder problem like Deliverance - maybe average 10-100 DNFs per day depending if per person or per attempt

trouserburp - on 12:04 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

Or maybe some sandbag V0 in the Castle 

David Staples - on 12:48 Fri
Chris the Tall - on 12:49 Fri
In reply to Deadeye:

I thought it would be this 

Austrian Oak (8b)

But it seems Simon hasn't been logging his attempts!

phil456 on 20:47 Fri
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I don’t record Did Not Start, but do for dogged because I can’t remember stuff and in 18 months when my partner says we have done this before I don’t start of thinking everything is fine or when I am having a bad spell I can see that I have got over them in the past, to me there is nothing worse than sandbagging myself ????????

 

Paul Hy - on 21:04 Fri
In reply to teh_mark:

Orpheus Wall at Birchen.

 

Rob Gillespie - on 22:52 Mon
In reply to Deadeye:

Pod Crack (E1 6a)

pod crack at castle naze has to be up there. 

Prof. Outdoors on 23:03 Mon
In reply to David Staples:

Probably one of the routes I've done most number of times.


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