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Every now and then, I find myself explaining that my dream is not climbing as high as possible but rather as "hard" as possible, be it 5 meters from the ground. This of course is met with even more confused face from my random colleague/relative. Normally, if the other person is really interested I proceed with showing a video from Action Direct or Demencia Senil. With that regards: which is the most impressive sport climbing / bouldering clip you've seen that even a person who has never climbed would appreciate the difficulty of?
Post edited at 20:57
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In reply to 8dreams:
The move Pete Whitaker makes on Dynamics of Change, with his left heel clawing at a hold around ear height, (see about 2:49 on the below) is something;
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In reply to 8dreams:
Pretty much anything from Stone Monkey.
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In reply to 8dreams:
Just watched The Dawn Wall, the dyno halfway up, just because of the position of it.
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In reply to 8dreams:
Pocket moves on Action Direct...
In reply to Danm79:
2nd vote for THAT move!!
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In reply to Euan McKendrick:
And a 3rd.
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In reply to 8dreams:
I remember watching Christopher Webb-Parsons on Wheel of Life and I don’t think I’ve ever seen such an elegant climber. His footwork is so precise, his body positioning so balletic you are left wondering what the crux move was.
youtube.com/watch?v=dl1h0Jmqswc&
Post edited at 22:23
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In reply to 8dreams:
The mono jam at 0:46 here (the following inverted foot jam is also pretty good)
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In reply to Toccata:
> I remember watching Christopher Webb-Parsons on Wheel of Life and I don’t think I’ve ever seen such an elegant climber. His footwork is so precise, his body positioning so balletic you are left wondering what the crux move was.
this as well: http://www.climbing.de/news/video-alex-megos-bei-der-erstbegehung-von-wheel...
In reply to Tom Valentine:
First thought was Dynamics of Change, but second:
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In reply to 8dreams:
These are all so impressive. Tom Whittaker's "top rope, top rope..... " is scarily inspiring. Thank you.
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In reply to 8dreams:
Nothing to add except: what a great thread with some excellent suggestions.
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In reply to Jon Stewart:
I suppose you're right about the move itself but I can't help being swayed by the context of Pete W's awesome achievement.
In reply to 8dreams:
Don't know if it's the most impressive ever but the move from the slab to the wall on Dreamcatcher is pretty cool - youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs&
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In reply to 8dreams:
In some ways a better answer to this post is to speak from our own personal experiences on routes that we have climbed, where the move sequence is so good, so memorable we dream about repeating it.
You obviously have to be in the moment, climbing well and moving effortlessly as we move through the sequence. For me I still recall the moves up Artless and on to Great Slab climbed nearly 30 years back. It's a sequence that I have been unable to repeat on subsequent visits to Froggatt. It begins with some stretchy fingers moves. Then its the way the feet are precisely placed as I stepped through the sequence, just beautiful!
Post edited at 09:27
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In reply to james.slater:
I'm surprised those ironstone nodules on Witness the Fitness didn't snap off.
In reply to MeMeMe:
Dreamcatcher always amazed me. The traverse across the big line of slopers seemed impossible.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
Good point. Joe's Arete at the Roaches does it for me - not particularly hard, just elegant.
In reply to 8dreams:
> Every now and then, I find myself explaining that my dream is not climbing as high as possible but rather as "hard" as possible
Sounds to me like you need to go bouldering more
In reply to ianstevens:
I guess there was misunderstanding due to English not being my native language. What I meant is that quite often I have to explain to others that the climbing I do is not about getting on top of peaks, rather doing hard moves, be it just a few of them.
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In reply to Sean Kelly:
> In some ways a better answer to this post is to speak from our own personal experiences on routes that we have climbed, where the move sequence is so good, so memorable we dream about repeating it.
I think Damascus Crack Left-hand Finish (VS 4c) does it for me: a sustained crack and then exposed finish. No big sections of easy ground, no temptation to reach for easier holds off the line.
In reply to james.slater:
> THAT move on Witness the Fitness -Chris Sharma
Just got a major rush of nostalgia watching that, esp the music, taking me back to my mid 20s when climbing hard was all that seemed to matter...
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In reply to 8dreams:
The "rebirth" sequence on Trench Warfare (around the 3.30 mark):
youtube.com/watch?v=2Ok0tstkS2I&
Not that difficult compared to some other examples on offer, but what a bastard move!
CB
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In reply to cb294:
Not seen that before, looks brilliant!
In reply to 8dreams:
That bit at the beginning of Mission Impossible 2....
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In reply to 8dreams:
Having seen at close quarters, No Kpote Only at Rocher Brule in Font, I think that Charles Albert's sequence on barely visible holds is astonishing. I've seen plenty of upper 8th grade problems and most I could make sense of, but this left me questioning the human potential. Kameyama Ryohei's repeat is no less impressive.
In reply to 8dreams:
Just remembered the clip from progression from the groove: 1:50 to 2:20
youtube.com/watch?v=I-OdxfCrXe4&
Post edited at 15:50
In reply to 8dreams:
My first one would have been Witness the Fitness to but the link below is also good, BJ Tilden on Genetic Drifter.
In reply to 8dreams:
Has anyone got footage of the mantel on A little peculiar?
In reply to 8dreams:
I love the spin move and invert move before it on L'autre Cote De Ciel. (2:10 on) youtube.com/watch?v=rEa8JJ5Kcdg&
Plus the endless foot-off moves on Akira, some of which are very spanny
youtube.com/watch?v=dSSxk71e-2k&
I guess Dimencia Senil is the modern equivalent. Non climbers always find single finger stuff impressive so this occasionally gets an outing among the training videos of campusboard work youtube.com/watch?v=-1KcoSPBiPQ& . People find it hard to comprehend how good climbers are until they see training videos of things they can relate to.
Post edited at 22:21
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In reply to 8dreams:
You could show them this clip.
youtube.com/watch?v=O2cO2cHHQKQ&
I think it captures sport climbing perfectly.
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In reply to Toerag:
> I love the spin move and invert move before it on L'autre Cote De Ciel. (2:10 on) youtube.com/watch?v=rEa8JJ5Kcdg&
But the whole route appears to be chipped!
Or should I say drilled?
Post edited at 18:00
In reply to Sul:
Many years ago we went to do Il Duce thinking it was e3, Martin’s lead of the damp roof pitch was one of the most impressive bits of climbing I’ve ever seen😀
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In reply to JimR:
I am not sure what you mean by this. You are not saying that "tailored" routes can be good are you?
Yes they can be but its cheating isn't it?
I do not want to start a whole new tedious thread on the merits or demerits of "manufactured" routes
In reply to 8dreams:
Anything harder than 4+ that I manage to get up after the lockdown.
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In reply to Sul:
Eh?
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In reply to 8dreams:
Jim Pope holding on on Appointment with Death!
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In reply to Matt Podd:
> Jim Pope holding on on Appointment with Death!
Yes, and then doing a mini-one arm pullup on that hold
In reply to Sul:
> But the whole route appears to be chipped!
> Or should I say drilled?
Some holds probably are 'cos it's from 'that era', but the moves are still cool though.
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In reply to Toerag:
So it doesn't go on now?
In reply to 8dreams:
I have always loved the ninja kick on Cypher at slipstones and found it massively inspirational. This short of David Mason on it is wicked and shows the move at around 2:20 youtube.com/watch?v=gp1_961ix6c&
And then Tom Newman on the same move at 1:55 vimeo.com/253157194
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