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/ Motivational route suggestions

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NottsRich on 11 Jun 2018

I need a kick up the backside to get the buzz of summer climbing back. I'm looking for recommendations of long HS/VS mountain routes around Glen Coe/Cairngorms please. Walk in of a couple of hours is fine (shorter is better though!), the route needs to be good and continuous, fairly protected and not some XVS horrorshow. Steep/juggy would be great, if possible at HS/VS. Something that I'll come off the top loving it and wanting more. I'm struggling to get motivated this summer! Thanks.

fuzzysheep01 on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

Ardverikie Wall (HS 4b) is difficult to beat based on that criteria.

Some of the routes Garbh Bheinn, South Wall? Like Butterknife (HS 4b) or Scimitar (VS 4c)?

HarrisonConnie1996 - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

I done Eagle Ridge (S) on Lochnagar recently - Super fun route, almost feels alpine. The top section is spectacular! 

Eagle Ridge (summer) (S)

I seconded a great little 3 pitch VS 4c just above the Hutchison Memorial hut, it was called Scabbard. I found it fairly tricky but the climbing was excellent.

Scabbard (Summer) (VS 4c)#photos

Agag's Groove (VD) on Buachaille Etive Mor is a stunning route too, easy climbing but the situations are not what you'd expect on a VDiff.

Agag's Groove (VD)

 

 

 

Dave Ferguson - on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

If the idea of the Scottish classic mountain routes doesn't motivate you I would seriously consider just giving up. You're not gonna find any better inspiration anywhere else.

NottsRich on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to fuzzysheep01:

Thanks, Ardverikie Wall has been on my list for a while now, just needing time to get out and do it. Does look a cracking route.

 

NottsRich on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to HarrisonConnie1996:

Funny, I've never thought of Lochnagar for trad climbing, only winter. Perhaps I've dismissed it too easily - I'll have a look at Eagle Ridge, I like the name! And it's a great place too.

Scabbard looks quite nice. There are a couple of photos of the Crimson Slabs area on this site and it does look rather nice. That's on the list now, thanks! Dagger looks good too, especially P2.

I've done Agag's a few too many times now. Great location, but I need some more variety, away from Rannoch Wall.

 

I can find inspiration in winter endlessly, everything looks beautiful in black and white with some great lines. In summer I'm a little less inspired. But some good suggestions there to add to my list, thanks.

Sammo - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

As already mentioned, Scabbard (Summer) (VS 4c) and The Dagger (VS 4c) at  Creag a'choire Etchachan are both good, and The Talisman (Summer) (HS 4a) on the same crag is worth doing too. This means you can have a nice weekend at HS-VS staying at the Hutchinson Hut.

Also close by is  Coire Sputan Dearg, which has Grey Slab (Summer) (HS 4b) and another decent HS, whose name I forget (Snake Ridge (Summer) (HS) maybe?). If you can stretch to HVS then Amethyst Pillar (HVS 5b) is also excellent, and Crystal Ridge (Summer) (D) is well worth doing too. There are good campsites in the corrie, so another good choice for a weekend visit, or combine with  Creag a'choire Etchachan

Over on  Hell's LumThe Clean Sweep (VS) is great (and, again, if you can stretch to HVS, you can easily combine it with The Magic Crack (HVS 5a) on the walk in or out).

There’s also some good stuff at this grade on  Creag an Dubh LochBlack Mamba (VS 4c) and The Mousetrap (VS 4c) are both great when dry.

Enjoy!

 

 

 

Michael Gordon - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

I know you said long routes, but personally a day on a few great pitches on the Buachaille with that fantastic outlook over Rannoch Moor can be hard to beat. Hiccup, Hangman's Crack, May Crack etc are the business at VS.

Samuel Wainwright - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

If you want something big mountain that's entertaining, mostly solid and that isn't to much of a walk I'd recommend heading up into Coire an Lochain (Cairngorm). I went up there with a mate a few summers back and in only a few hour we ticked off Savage Slit (S)Fallout Corner (VS 4b) and Prore (VS 4c), which were all great fun. You can easily abseil down after doing one of the routes to tick all three with relative ease. 

More info here http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/08/ruining-onsight-day-in-coire-lochain.html

As other have said, some really good stuff over in Loch A'an and Creag a'choire Etchachan (but its a bit more of a walk). 

Good luck! 

Post edited at 13:51
NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Sammo:

> As already mentioned, Scabbard (Summer) (VS 4c) and The Dagger (VS 4c) at  Creag a'choire Etchachan are both good, and The Talisman (Summer) (HS 4a) on the same crag is worth doing too. This means you can have a nice weekend at HS-VS staying at the Hutchinson Hut.

I've been having a browse of that crag and came up with a similar list. Thanks for confirming that they're all worthwhile routes!

> Also close by is  Coire Sputan Dearg, which has Grey Slab (Summer) (HS 4b) and another decent HS, whose name I forget (Snake Ridge (Summer) (HS) maybe?). If you can stretch to HVS then Amethyst Pillar (HVS 5b) is also excellent, and Crystal Ridge (Summer) (D) is well worth doing too. There are good campsites in the corrie, so another good choice for a weekend visit, or combine with  Creag a'choire Etchachan

That's a whole new area to look into for trad, I've only been in winter. Thanks.

> Over on  Hell's LumThe Clean Sweep (VS) is great (and, again, if you can stretch to HVS, you can easily combine it with The Magic Crack (HVS 5a) on the walk in or out).

Did something similar a few years ago. Magic Crack on the way in, and then something on Hell's Lum (forget what). A nice combination.

> There’s also some good stuff at this grade on  Creag an Dubh LochBlack Mamba (VS 4c) and The Mousetrap (VS 4c) are both great when dry.

Mousetrap! Yes, that was on my list a few years ago. Back on it again now, and beautiful area so that helps. Haven't heard of Black Mamba - I'll look it up, thanks.

 

NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I completely admit that there is some great climbing there, but I'm not so keen on several routes on the same face/area. I think it's why I get get bored of single pitch (and can't cope with bouldering). One really long, good route in a day, that's what I'm looking for. But thanks anyway!

NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. As I just said above, I don't really like doing multiple routes in the same area. But it's great to hear yet another suggestion for getting over the back of the plateau. Did The Needle a couple of years ago and it was good, nice length too.

 

Can anyone guess what route this is? Remember reading about it a while ago, but can't remember the name. A rounded hill in Torridon, with a big route up the nose/prow. Possibly HVS, and 10+ pitches? Ring any bells?

Michael Gordon - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

> Can anyone guess what route this is? Remember reading about it a while ago, but can't remember the name. A rounded hill in Torridon, with a big route up the nose/prow. Possibly HVS, and 10+ pitches? Ring any bells?

Cioch Corner Superdirect?

Post edited at 14:40
Samuel Wainwright - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

No worries. The Needle is also a belter!

Are you thinking of Direct Nose Route (HVS)? Bit further north but if so its a real 3 star adventure! However the climbing leaves a lot to be desired... 

Post edited at 16:06
NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

> Are you thinking of Direct Nose Route (HVS)? Bit further north but if so its a real 3 star adventure! However the climbing leaves a lot to be desired... 

Yes!

Have you done it? It's a shame if the climbing is a bit poor, but does the adventure make up for it? It's routes like that, albeit with good climbing AND the (long) journey, that I'm looking for. But appreciate I might struggle to find that in Scotland.

 

Michael Hood - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

Don't know if anyone's mentioned Fionn Buttress (VS 4c) at Carnmore. VS, 11(?) pitches and a long walk in (& out).

Not done it myself but it's 3*.

Post edited at 16:49
Michael Gordon - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

The Fiddler's Nose is well worth your while - a great mountaineering day out. If your parameters are now including HVS stuff and the NW then you'll probably get a whole heap more suggestions! Old Man of Stoer and Bludger's Revelation for instance. 

NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Michael Gordon:

HVS is pushing it for now, but the odd HVS pitch here and there is probably ok if well protected and short.

But yes, I guess the NW should really be in there...

NottsRich on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Michael Hood:

Now we're talking! That looks superb. The option of a paddle across the loch to get there adds to it, or perhaps a swim/island hop instead...

james1978 - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

South ridge direct , Arran . 13pitches VS 5a should fit the bill Rich....

A train , a ferry, a bike ride, 13 pitches of pristine granite.... What's not to like? 

Samuel Wainwright - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

Nice! Yeah did it a few years back (http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/10/the-fiddlers-nose.html). I'd also second Michael suggesting Fionn Buttress too. Did it about two weeks ago and thought it was fab! 

Alex Riley on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Samuel Wainwright:

Spartan Slab (VS 4c)

Is a good one..

NottsRich on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to james1978:

> South ridge direct , Arran . 13pitches VS 5a should fit the bill Rich....

> A train , a ferry, a bike ride, 13 pitches of pristine granite.... What's not to like? 


Yes, that ticks the boxes...!

NottsRich on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Alex Riley:

> Is a good one..


Yep, sure is. Enjoyed that a while ago.

Mark Bannan - on 17 Jun 2018
In reply to NottsRich:

A few not mentioned yet:

Final Selection - both the D and VD variations (great rock on both and great exposure on 2nd pitch of the latter)

Satan's Slit and Raven's Edge, Buachaille (excellent wildly exposed top pitches on both)

Shangri-La, Skye (great varied route)

Whispers, Stac an Fharaidh (great delicate footwork)

Archer Ridge, Aonach Dubh (top quality exposure, like Agag's)


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