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Napes needle

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 Andy Hay 17 May 2022

Hi all. I'm originally from Cumbria and decided to finally do napes. I'd like to know what condition it's in, ie polished etc? My friend and I thought we'd better get it done whilst we can (he's still native). 

In reply to Andy Hay:

Its decently polished, much like many of the old lakes classics (middlefell, little chamonix etc) but that does not detract from the atmosphere of the climb.

the wasdale crack starting pitch is not that nice, polished, slow to dry and often greasy. The neighbouring arete is nicer in my opinion

Post edited at 13:51
 will_mcmahon 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

Its one of the most polished routes I've ever climbed, and quite exposed, however one of the best experiences ever! The polish on the top pitch made for an interesting downclimb however nothing a competent leader can't handle.

 Tigger 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

Polished but it doesn't detract from the fun. On the last pitch just ensure your second doesn't removed the gear, lower them down, have them put you back on belay and then down climb whilst removing gear.

 CantClimbTom 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

Well..  looks like this might have been written for you then It's on my bucket list but not got there yet. What I hear is that getting up is easier than getting down (not counting falling)

https://www.needlesports.com/Information/Need-Advice/How-to-Get-Down-off-Na...

 Rick Graham 17 May 2022
In reply to CantClimbTom:

> Well..  looks like this might have been written for you then It's on my bucket list but not got there yet. What I hear is that getting up is easier than getting down (not counting falling)

I have read all that and dismissed it as over complicated .

Imho the simplest option is to belay on the shoulder, leader goes to top and down climbs with one rope over the top or on a sling/spike, the other rope through the runners. Second person repeats the procedure . Big smooth spike on the shoulder to ab off , no sling to leave . 

A bit of taking in on one rope and paying out on the other, but if you can't manage that maybe you would not be capable of setting up the complicated belay on top.

1
 Tigger 17 May 2022
In reply to Tigger:

And obviously have your second re-clip the gear as they're lowered.

OP Andy Hay 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

Thanks for the headsup folks. Just need to rely on our glorious weather. May even do tophet wall on the way back whilst we're ticking classics? 

 C Witter 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

Tophet Wall is one not to miss - far more enjoyable climbing! Really very worthwhile and the best route I've done at the grade anywhere. However, the Needle does beg to be done.

Polish is not the issue. Rick Graham's explanation is spot on, as Needlesports' method proved fiddly and unconvincing... although when I tried Rick's suggested method the rope rolled off the top as I did the most difficult bit of downclimbing. All part of the fun! The top pitch feels a bit insecure but it goes. I think the Wasdale Crack may be better than the arete because it's the original way, and that's what you're there for, no? But, we downclimbed the arete to get the full tick

 static266 17 May 2022
In reply to Rick Graham:

I used the Needle Sports method but with just one cam plus the loop under the overhang as far as I can remember, not particularly faffy and surprisingly secure. The arete is nice, the top block is very polished and just one move really. Cool to do but Needle Ridge is a lot more interesting. 

In reply to Andy Hay:

It was pouring with rain and blowing a gale when we did it. The crack was full of green slime and I was very disappointed when my partner cleanly lead it as it meant I had to do the top bit! It was so windy I had to lie on top to belay. Despite all this we managed it all relatively safely and its an experience I look back on fondly! The VDiff behind it and the mod on the next crag up make a great day out. As long as you know how to get off the top you'll be fine. 

 Baron Weasel 17 May 2022
In reply to Andy Hay:

I've walked to the summit!

 Fellover 18 May 2022
In reply to Rick Graham:

I've been up Napes Needle a few times and for me one of the nicest bits about it is being on the top with your partner. You don't get that with the one person lead and downclimb followed by the other person lead and downclimb method. The needleports method is a little faffy, but really not that hard to work out and lets both people be on top together and feel safe, which I quite like.

 C Witter 18 May 2022
In reply to Fellover:

Ah... I misread RG's advice. Yes, the best bit is both being up there together!


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