UKC

New Dawn (7c) What happened to the Undercut at the start of New Dawn at Malham, it seems to of left the crag

 Tim Lowe’s comment in the feedback section makes it sound like he knows where the bits are(?)

”The large undercut on the crux has more or less completely come off. It’s in several pieces but due to the nature of the hold, ie undercut needs to be properly repaired otherwise it will probably break again. It may take a little time to figure out how this can be done.”

Tim has the pieces and is going to repair it next week.

That's a shame. Is the sequence possible / much harder without the undercut?

I did New Dawn in the early nineties and it was hard enough for me with the undercut.

The undercut that's broken is the second of the first pair that you pull into from the floor. From this you then go up to a third deep pocket undercut. What's left is a thinner undercut crack that is a bit higher up and an undercut crimp where the flake-undercut broke. It's still climbable but the rock is a bit nasty and it would likely be quite a bit harder. New Dawn's start already made the route a bit unbalanced so I'm hoping for a reasonable repair.

Thanks for the info. As you say, it was always a bit unbalanced with an expensive entrance fee. Sounds quite a bit harder now.

Good luck with the repair.

CB.