UKC

Yesterday I lead the bent arete 2m to the right of the plaque, between la plaque direct and plaque pitch.

Starting underneath the downward pointing flake I climbed the arete in its entirety, via the flake and cracks to left of the arete finishing left on steep jugs.  The grade is E2/3 5c and imo worthy of a star.

I have looked but cannot find any reported ascent nor is it in any guidebook. 

Is this a first ascent?

https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/351781.jpg

Best bet would be to email the guidebook editor for the area (should be described in the current definitive guide to the area).

Barry Clarke did a whole raft of new routes shortly after the CC published the recent guide to the area, this may be one of his, some more details will be on here:

https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/new-routes-west-cornwall-north-vol-1/

Not new - p 128 of the current CC guide.

Either Plaque Pitch (HVS 5a), Plaque Direct (HVS 5a), or some combination of the two. You can also clearly see from the lack of litchen on the line in your photo that it has been climbed before.

https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/351831.jpg

Hi Mark. I was looking at the other routes you describe while I was there yesterday, and reckon they follow the lines in the above photo,  they are a couple of meters to either side of the line I climbed and do not share any holds, it was also not hvs.

I will be surprised if it has not been climbed before but I cannot find any record of this independent line being done.

Litchen does not seem to grow on all areas of rock on the ridge whether it sees regular climbing activity or not, it may also depend on the angle and orientation of the walls

I think this is worty of investigating further as Tom agreed it was a great route

I've emailed the guidebook author - if anyone knows, he will.

Thanks Mark,

I looked in the guide, as spenser suggested but couldn't find an email address for the author. Thought I'd post on here to check local knowledge before going to Climbers Club new routes.

John

The author is Andy2 on here Spearos. 
 

Cheers,

Tom

Cheers Tom,

John

Well,  Andy2 doesn't know of any previous claims to this Arete, so I'm  calling it "Aretenophobia" E2 5c for now and going to put it in the ukc logbook for Bosigran Ridge area so it may get a second ascent.

Worth a look if your heading  out that way.

John

Nice name (from a spider hater!).  Congrats