UKC

Yesterday I saw that a broken peg had been replaced somewhere on the rhs of the north wall, weirdly it’s been replaced by a lost arrow below a loose block and a bolt. There doesn’t seem to be any other bolts on the routes in that immediate area and there’s gear placements about even though the rock is compact and there’s at least one loose block. (Is there already a ukc discussion) is this a belay?

Rob,

This will most likely be a part of the Wintours Leap re-gearing project.  Lots of good and well thought out work going on there to keep the crag in good order.

They are in desperate need of donations, so if you want to help out:

https://www.paypal.com/donate?hosted_button_id=EYF4STG4KWMQQ

Is this the Wrong Tap belay? A single bolt was placed there recently as there was only one peg of the 3 peg belay that was replaced for The Wrong Tap was in sound rock. One blade was stuck or snapped blocking a placement, one was a good blade and the other was under rock which moved when replacing so is obviously poor. As far as I am aware no other bolts have been placed anywhere near Nibelheim as part of the project, excluding the Great Ledge where minimal bolts have been placed to be used instead of dangerous dying ash and where no natural gear is available. 

It could well be the Wrong Tap belay! We were rambling up to the Great Ledge in one pitch and i noticed the new kit on the way past and thought it looked a bit out of place there. I’m not familiar with the logistics of a multiple teams on those routes but there seemed to be other gear options especially as the lost arrow is below what *looks like* a loose block.

The bolts on the ledge make sense to me.

a big job keeping that in good order!

I’m happy to help out, I’ve got kit (probably a handful of bolts) but no drill

Nope there is very little options for suitable natural belay gear there. The arrow went into a crack that was starting to expand when fully driven. Hence the bolt. Bear in mind one of the original pegs was in the same crack. 

All regearing work is being carried out in accordance with the agreed policy which can be found here

https://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=4270

Ok, I’ve not spent much time at wintours so can’t go in to details, but to boil it down there is now a bolt in a trad route that previously had none.

Why I’ve not climbed there more is a mystery to me!? Hopefully when it cools off…..

Yes, and Cheese Monkey has already provided a perfectly reasonable justification for using a bolt in this instance.

Correct- I have already stated the reasoning and the placing the bolt was allowed as voted on and as detailed in the regearing document. This is not a decision taken by a single individual. If you (or anyone) don't like it feel free to raise it at next area meet.

Thank you. Bolts are always the last resort and no one in the group wants to see the character or feel of any route we have worked on changed.

Just sent a donation over, keep up the good work

Just to confirm, the Wintours Leap re-equiping proposal was agreed at the BMC SW area meeting of 29th April 2021 having been raised at the previous meeting, 1st March 2021. Minutes of the meeting and details of the policy can be found on the BMC community site: https://community.thebmc.co.uk/Event.aspx?id=4270

Mark Kemball (BMC SW area chair).

Cheers for your replies, a well worn topic!

keep up the good work re-gearing