This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hi all,
After a recommendation for a good route for breaking into the HVS grade and ones to look out for. I'm North East based so North York Moors or Northumberland preferably!
No need for it to be classic (as there's always the chance i'll lob off it). I like an obscure, out of the way crag and also tend to the bold but technically easier routes if any of that helps!
I have a few circled for the next time out but thought the UKC hive mind would be a good place to check in with.
Also any sandbags to avoid would be good, as I'd prefer not to traumatise my belayer!
Cheers!
Post edited at 20:17
In reply to outdoors.nick:
I did Audacity (HVS 5a) the other week and thought that it was great and bang on for HVS - plenty of good gear (although the middle section seemed a bit bold) and reasonably long. Corby's fits the bill reasonably well for "out of the way" and there are plenty of S-VS routes to warm up on too! There's also Sunshine Superman (HVS 5a) if you feel like you're going well, although that seemed more like a traditional Northumberland HVS as it's quite steep and powerful (but very well protected).
3
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Breaking into HVS in Northumberland.
Make sure you save the hospital address in your GPS!
17
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Come over to the Lakes for a weekend and do some big routes. These are super-classic,
Golden Slipper (HVS 5a) is a great introduction. It's dead easy, with a main pitch climbing an immaculate slab of beautiful "bubbly" rhyolite, with plenty of small wires. Fantastic position climbing the front of a pillar on the upper part of a big but very accessible mountain crag. Unbeatable. Except for maybe...
Kipling Groove (HVS 5a). One for when you're reasonably confident at the grade (but don't wait too long, do it while it's still ...hard"). Do North West Arete (VS 4b) to warm up and get you to the ledges where the route starts, again half way up a big crag - plenty of exposure from the outset. The route weaves around, and eventually gets quite hard when you're in a really exciting position. Then you launch across the steepest most exposed bit of rock in the valley on huge jugs with sweet FA in the way of footholds - proper good. The view from the belay is incredible, as is the feeling of euphoria.
Pluto (HVS 5a) could serve as an intro to the routes on Gimmer, if you're keen for a big day out. Great route too - if you manage that and then NW Arete/Kipling, you'll have a day out to remember forever.
While it can be nice to climb the quieter stuff, the big classic stuff is classic for a reason: it's the best. And I don't recommend going off the beaten track too much in the Lakes, you can end up with some nasty surprises. Clean, solid routes tend to be more fun. And the big routes in the Lakes are a lot of fun, compared to dodgy ankle-breakers on sandstone!
11
In reply to neuromancer:
It's alreet, I live next to one of them so it would save me having to drive home!
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Tigers wall, The Runnel,* Devil's Edge, Audacity, Temptation... Most non steep County HVSs.
There's tons in Yorkshire that fit the bill too, The Hotline, Knuckle Slab, Plantation Wall, Old Lace...
*Rockfax "HVS" IIRC
Post edited at 20:54
1
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Nice one - thanks! They're definitely on the list now. Long Lakes multipitch routes are definitely more my kind of thing, its just finding the weekends and the right partners to get across!
I've only moved up to the North East recently after learning to climb on southern limestone/ cornish granite so I've been surprised that I've found myself really enjoying the squat sandstone crags .... in a masochistic sort of way.
In reply to Droyd:
Thanks! Haven't been to Corby's yet but looks ideal.... Plenty of VS's if I bottle it.
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Borrowdale has got loads of lovely HVS's, if you can make it over this way.
My first HVS lead was Lakeland cragsman on sergeant crag slabs, which I reckon is quite a nice soft touch, and if you feel good on it the other two HVS's on the same crag are also brilliant and not much harder at all. Loads of gear as well. Also, troutdale pinnacle superdirect and mandrake are brilliant.
2
1
In reply to Herdwickmatt:
which one; The Runnel? Gets VS 5a in my book.. Might have to have a crack as "prep"!
In reply to Lemony:
Cheers - I'll take a look. That's two votes for Audacity, so might be heading to Corby's in the near future!
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Kipling Grove is a nuts suggestions from someone who climbs much harder than HVS, I lead at HVS and I'd say it's one of the hardest I've ever climbed, unless you are very confident on steep routes. 'Tiger's Wall' is the obvious one at Bowden doors, Route one at Crag Lough has a short well protected crux if i remember rightly. However you're the best judge of what routes might fit your style, at the Northumberland crags it's easy to get on something if you're feeling confident.
2
1
In reply to sheelba:
When did Tiger's Wall become HVS?! That's almost as ridiculous as giving Lorraine HVS. County VS. Nuff said.
1
In reply to DaveHK:
Haha! Should I stick to the NMC guide for the "True" HVS routes in the county?
In reply to outdoors.nick:
A bit obscure and short and bold but absolutely brilliant.
Post edited at 21:46
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
> Haha! Should I stick to the NMC guide for the "True" HVS routes in the county?
Yes, but not the current edition.
Post edited at 21:58
1
In reply to DaveHK:
Ah. well then I haven't got the foggiest. What would you consider a true county HVS that would be a decent intro to the grade?
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Northumberland :
Just two I haven't done here, all superb and worth while, most pack in a punch for their short lengths!
Welcome to Northumberland
Post edited at 22:10
2
In reply to outdoors.nick:
No idea I'm just trolling.
2
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Crag Lough has some great, mini-lakes vs/hvs's if memory serves e.g. Crystal (HVS 5a)
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
More seriously, if you want a soft touch to let you in gently then Gagarin's Groove at Kyloe is a good shout.
Post edited at 21:59
3
In reply to petegunn:
That's a canny list - thanks for the effort!
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Some North York Moors:
Some good ones at Slipstones and not too far from Scotch Corner and A1
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Great Wall at the Wanney was always one of my favourites when I lived that way:
Alternatively, Jack Rock has few great climbs in a stunning setting:
1
In reply to sheelba:
> Kipling Grove is a nuts suggestions from someone who climbs much harder than HVS, I lead at HVS and I'd say it's one of the hardest I've ever climbed, unless you are very confident on steep routes.
Saying "Kipling Groove (HVS 5a). One for when you're reasonably confident at the grade (but don't wait too long, do it while it's still ...hard"). " isn't nuts, is it? Just 'cause you had a mare on it doesn't mean it's actually that hard - maybe you just cocked it up? I did it as an HVS leader - and I actually climbed it fine compared to all the grit routes I was falling off at the time - and it was one of the best experiences of my entire life.
5
In reply to petegunn:
> Some good ones at Slipstones and not too far from Scotch Corner and A1
Wonderful place. But on what planet is Zoom 5c? (I know that's not your idea!)
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> I did it as an HVS leader - and I actually climbed it fine compared to all the grit routes I was falling off at the time - and it was one of the best experiences of my entire life.
KG must have been one of my early HVSs and, to be honest, I remember wondering what all the fuss was about - perhaps because we did Intern to get to it, which we thought much harder.
The Lakes HVS that really stands out to me for the quality of the climbing (beyond Golden Slipper, Arcturus, Praying Mantis, Great Central Route et al) is Mandrake at Quayfoot Buttress. Superb, well-protected climbing (I think Lakes HVSs can be pretty run out if you aren't used to them). Outstanding.
PS: For friendly (non-classic!) routes well-suited for breaking into the grade, I would have recommended Behind the Lines and Saquatch at Hodge Close. However, Readza and I had a look round there recently and were shocked by what a mess the whole place had become - green, overgrown and, in the case of Parrock, mostly fallen down. Very sad. Once the home to my favourite pitch anywhere and now reverting into an unpleasant hole in the ground.
Post edited at 10:27
2
In reply to Neil R:
Great wall is great. It's a terrible idea for a first HVS though. I know steady E2 climbers who have been stopped by that first groove.
1
In reply to petegunn:
Baluster Crack HVS? It's nails. Or maybe my hands aren't big enough...
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Marcher Lord at Berryhill is a cracker. Good gear and improbable finish.
Coldstream corner steep but exceedingly well protected.
Crystal at Crag Lough. What a route!!
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Angel fingers is another that is quiet testing for a first time HVS.
My money is on Monty Pythons flying circus, it's only VS!
1
In reply to neuromancer:
Its
> Great wall is great. It's a terrible idea for a first HVS though. I know steady E2 climbers who have been stopped by that first groove.
Its got to be E1. Its harder than Rake End wall for sure.
In reply to outdoors.nick:
> That's a canny list - thanks for the effort!
Bear in mind that those are just good routes, definitely not necessarily 'breaking into HVS' ones!
1
In reply to outdoors.nick:
Great Wall, while an awesome route, is not a beginner HVS route (and probably not an HVS either!) as noted by others. If you go to Great Wanney don't be tempted by Hawk Slab as it's known to not only be a sandbag but a dangerous one at that having seriously injured people in the past.
I'd vote for Audacity or big classic lakes routes
In reply to outdoors.nick:
I'd second gargarin groove - softy by county (or any) standard, but still feels a bit 'out there' at the top and is well protected. Devil's edge would be a good one as well. Long crack at bowden is a bit thuggy, however has plenty of good gear and the crux is far enough from the floor to not be worrying.
Titus-protus in langdale is a really good hvs, steep and sustained, well protected, and generally great.
Some of the suggestions here are classic routes at hvs, however I wouldn't recommend if you've literally not led any hvs ever. I guess it depends how much vs you've led. Just remember that you're never that far from the ground in northumberland!!
In reply to ChrisH89:
I'm surprised you didn't recommend Irony after your air time on it last year mate! I'd second Chris' none recommendation of Hawk Slab, I've done it twice and feel it's significantly more dangerous (and technically harder) than Sundowner (E2 5a), the gear "protecting" the crux sequences is below half height with an awful landing.
In all seriousness:
Crystal at Crag Lough - Jamming in places, decent gear
Lakeland Cragsman at Sergeant Crag Slabs (pretty safe, good gear)
Terminator 2 at Sergeant Crag Slabs (again quite safe)
In reply to Root1:
> Marcher Lord at Berryhill is a cracker. Good gear and improbable finish.
Also VS.....
1
In reply to joem
Is a lovely little slab route with just enough gear if you have small offset wires.
In reply to DaveHK:
> More seriously, if you want a soft touch to let you in gently then Gagarin's Groove at Kyloe is a good shout.
Agreed. Not too high in the grade or sustained, with reasonably good gear. Not too many HVS's around and about that area that are quite easy though
Post edited at 13:43
In reply to Robbie Blease:
Borrowdale has got loads of lovely HVS's, if you can make it over this way.
> My first HVS lead was Lakeland cragsman on sergeant crag slabs, which I reckon is quite a nice soft touch, and if you feel good on it the other two HVS's on the same crag are also brilliant and not much harder at all. Loads of gear as well. Also, troutdale pinnacle superdirect and mandrake are brilliant.
I'd second all that.
In reply to petegunn:
Gulp.
Despite climbing HVS for thirty years in the rest of the U.K., there is not a single route on that list that I have managed to get up....
3
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...