UKC

/ Nose Speed Record Timelapse

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markalmack - on 16 Apr 2018
purplemonkeyelephant - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to markalmack:

I hope there is a full video of the entire route! So awesome

monkey92 - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Here you go  https://www.vimeo.com/264661267

 

markalmack - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

opps, thought i had posted the full thing....

Mark Collins - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to markalmack:

Great film thanks for sharing  

owennewcastle - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to monkey92:

That's ace.

ericinbristol - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to monkey92:

Absolutely gorgeous and fascinating!

Includes the best quote ever about El Cap: "You're a granite astronaut" (John Long).

Bulls Crack - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to markalmack:

Thanks. That was funny

 

No wonder they broke the record climbing like that

Mark Collins - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to all:

Can't stop watching this, think I'm on my fifth viewing. So many terrific elements

Sandstone Stickman - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to markalmack:

I can't get over the speed they move at. Consider, they only swing leads once and even then it's via the king swing so they never meet on the route at all. That means the rack needs to be big enough to cover roughly 16 pitches each. They must only leave 1 or 2 runners per "pitch"!

Robert Durran - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

> I can't get over the speed they move at.

You do realise the film has been speeded up a bit?

Really enjoyed it.

Post edited at 23:33
Deadeye - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to markalmack:

Noooooooo.  I give up.  I thought I was a climber, but obviously not.

Great film.

Sandstone Stickman - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Robert Durran:

Base to Sickle in approx. 12 minutes takes most people a good day.

Dolt Tower to Camp 4 was approx. 46 minutes and took us 19 hours! (Yes, I know that's really slow!!)

Great roof in sub 5 minutes?!

King Swing to the top in one push with only one rack of gear?! Mind blowing!!

GrahamD - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Its hard for me to tell from the video but how much is being freed at this pace and how much aided ?

Bogwalloper - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to GrahamD:

You're right it's hard to say.

I'd guess from the ground to the top of the Sickle - free or 99% free with occasional pull on gear for speed.

Stovelegs to top of Texas flake - free as above.

Greay bands - free.

Only places I could actually see aiders in use were from the top of The Texas Flake across the bolt ladder to The Boot then he starts free climbing up the flake.

Then on the Great roof.

I couldn't even see them using aiders on anything above that. Not even Changing Corners but I guess you can just pull on the bolt on the crux there.

On the last pitch they just pull on the bolts but some of them are really spaced.

All in all - mind boggling.

W

 


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