UKC

/ Now or never beta

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atthedropofahat on 11 May 2018

So. I went to climb Now or Never (E1 5b) at Burbage North the other day . I'm trying to break back into E1 territory and after getting to the ledge I was completely perplexed as to how to move up. I backed out the easy way to the right then tried it on toprope and still couldn't get anywhere trying to climb the right side of the arete.

Literally nowhere, eventually frigged my way to get to the layback and I'm sure I wouldn't be able to do it as I'm simply not getting it. I haven't been shut down on a route like that for ages.

Anyone have any useful beta? I'm not precious as I've already blown the onsight and I'm just confused as balancy climbing usually favours my style and I don't climb with anyone more experienced to show me the technique so can't learn in that way .

john arran - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

No useful beta I'm afraid, but sympathy. The route would often be included on my soloing circuit, but literally half the times I tried it I would back off and not do it. The other times it would feel easy. I never did really figure out what I was doing differently, but it must have been pretty subtle as I was quite switched on to technical nuances at the time.

GrahamD - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Too long ago to remember I’m afraid but I don’t think grit E1 would be my preference for getting back into the grade !

Mick Ward - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

As I recall (caveat: long, long time ago!) it's just very balancy. The important thing is that you don't get disheartened. There are always going to be anomalies within a grade. (The Grogan, a HVS anomaly?)

Hopefully some better beta will come up!  But, whether it does or doesn't, press on.

Mick

Jon Stewart - on 11 May 2018
In reply to GrahamD:

> Too long ago to remember I’m afraid but I don’t think grit E1 would be my preference for getting back into the grade !

Plenty of E1 softies on grit. But Now Or Never is about tech 6a! Desperate. My strong-fingered slate climbing mate crimped on nothing with his right hand, I used both hands on the arete in some kind of extraordinarily awkward push-me-pull-you manoeuvre...I didn't know if I was going to fall off or throw up. 

Jon Stewart - on 11 May 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Hopefully some better beta will come up! 

Maybe...

Coel Hellier - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

A while ago, when similarly baffled, I went around the left (steep) side of the arete, and did it with a lay-back-y move and thought "actually, that's not too bad".

Since then I've been back a couple of times and never been able to work out what I did that day.

So on the other occasions I went up the slabby, right-side of the arete, and found it pretty hard. 

atthedropofahat on 11 May 2018
In reply to GrahamD:

Maybe but it is local to me and so can be enjoyed in an evening after work.

atthedropofahat on 11 May 2018
In reply to john arran:

Maybe it was severe pump and lack of rest. Been climbing every day for a week but beforehand. Pinch seemed almost impossible to make progress on. I'll get back next week sometime .

Chris the Tall - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Long tall sally is a better bet for breaking into E1

Did Now or Never at least once, possibly twice, but it was a long time ago. Seem to remember a tricky move to reach the midway ledge, and then a bold move to leave it, which I protected with what may or may not have been a side runner! 

deacondeacon - on 11 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Have you tried 'long tall sally' at the same crag? Bit more straightforward and obvious. Bit of a softy too which helps  

atthedropofahat on 11 May 2018
In reply to deacondeacon:

I will be. Just like the look of the line there's something about it

Cake on 12 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

I can't remember the move at all, except that it was sketchy, sorry. However, what I certainly do remember is that I thought it was really tough at E1 and the run-out was dodgy.

I agree that it's a nice line. What about Milsom's Minion as another close one which is slabby and technical?

spidermonkey09 - on 12 May 2018
In reply to Cake:

Total sandbag. Did it a few years ago on the same day as the sentinel. There are easier grit e3s out there!

ebdon on 12 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

I seem to remember going up the left hand side of the slab i seem to recall it was pretty thin but ok once you committed. I actully fell off the start if this route the first time i tried it getting on to the ledge when a jam sliped out. I still have the scar. Not an easy E1

atthedropofahat on 14 May 2018
In reply to Cake:

In the end I ticked ''better late than never" at rivelin. First E1 in 10 years. A good day. I'll be back for now or never though.

Bulls Crack - on 14 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

Nice link! Can the theme be carried on?

ripper - on 14 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

This thread has made me feel slightly better about that fact that I've backed off this route once, fallen off it once (missing the ground, thankfully) and not been back since. I remember looking at the pic of a woman on the upper section, in Eastern Grit, but once on the route being complete unable to understand how she got in that position!

 

 

 

 

The Wild Scallion on 15 May 2018
In reply to atthedropofahat:

I thought this was a soft touch for E1 .

I remember a Size 0 or was it size 1 Cam in a small break as the last gear about half way.

Apart from it's just about balance.

Also the route goes straight up the slab middle no arete required (it's cheating )

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=148405

TWS

Post edited at 08:46
Rob Parsons on 15 May 2018
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

That picture is not the route being discussed.

The Wild Scallion on 15 May 2018
In reply to Rob Parsons:

Oh I now see.  

Apologies .

 

 

 

The Wild Scallion on 15 May 2018
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

You stupid git .

Different route.

Pay more attention .

atthedropofahat on 15 May 2018
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Did this the other day as a consolation prize. Nice route, there's also a place for a very dodgy superlight offset in the almost perfectly round hole mid crux. Since I didn't find the hole remotely useful to pull on I placed the gear. Maybe an E0 route, its easier than many HVS routes but a fall from the upper part of the crux sequence would need a sprinting belayer to avert a groundfall.

If anyone has more gritstone 'never' themed routes that are in the E1 category then I'm open to suggestions.


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