In reply to Offwidth:
> "Not a lot in here below Font 5"....presumably the grades are sensible and if so that's disappointing in terms of lingering elitism ( definitive guides should provide a service to all boulderers and really good lower grade problems are there) and from a commercial perspective... (just look where the crowds are at Font ...and indoors).
Hi Steve,
Wrt grades, it's a game of two halfs here. The established bouldering grades are on the whole spot on, and there's a whole raft of stuff from the huge NW bouldering 'explosion' which haven't had enough ascents to reach consensus. This has been in the upper grades though mostly, so the 5s and 6s are in the right ball park. Quite often.
I think you're jumping the gun with 'elitism' for a number of reasons. First, you're conflating definitive with comprehensive. A definitive guide doesn't have to have all the routes in. The Font 5&6 guide is as definitive as you can get, but doesn't have 7&8s. Obviously.
Second, try to document sub 5s in an area like NW and you'll need a trailer to carry the guide. It's difficult to walk anywhere without falling over easy rock, the best strategy here is to buy the guide, go and look around the documented stuff and there's loads to do, plus loads to aspire to.
I'm not sure about the commercial case as it was suggested to me that the first print run will mostly go in pre orders. FYI wrt indoors (maybe Graeme could give an owners perspective, the bulk of activity on my local bouldering wall for regulars is yellow, black, wasp, murple and red (guess the wall) all F6 and above.
Paul
Post edited at 11:41