UKC

Hi all.
i am looking at leading orange wall tomorrow afternoon and would like to know where the crux move is. is it the overhang, or up the arete to the top. i know its cheating but i am only a steady vs climber wanting to push on to the next level...... thanks for any reply's.

In reply to luke glaister:


If you accept that it might be either the roof or the arête (or both) then you will not be surprised. (I'm reading the Rock Warriors Way at the moment!)

In reply to Bulls Crack: ok. sounds like good advice. is the book worth a read? Cheers.

In reply to luke glaister:

Hi Luke

There isn't actually an overhang on the route - you bypass it on the right. Basically you follow Whitt to its last peg (which can be backed up with a small wire just underneath it) and then make a delicate traverse right under the overhang to a resting place, then a traverse back left along the lip of the overhang to the final arete. I think the arete is probably the crux, though the traverse right is a bit unnerving. Once the angle and difficulty eases off, watch out for the odd big loose block at the top of the arete.

Despite the final warning, it's a great route - I did the Longstone area for the guide and I think dragging Orange Wall out of obscurity was possibly the thing I'm most pleased about.

Rick

In reply to Rick Sewards: Hi Rick.
Thanks very much for the beta. Cant wait to get this route done. it looks great. just hope i keep my head... cheers luke.

In reply to luke glaister: 20 year old beta....there is a thread runner above as you move out of the cave left prior to skirting the top of the cave onto the orange wall - this also is a critical foot hold for your balance as you commit to the crux move.

In reply to luke glaister: how did you get on?

In reply to luke glaister:

I'd say yes so far. It's one where you keep reading bits and self-recognition keeps going 'Yes I do that..and that..and that'!