/ Outdoor Sport Grades For Different Height Climbs?

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afx22 - on 14 May 2019

Possibly a dumb question (I have many) but...

If you have a short outdoor 8m Sport route at a grade of 6b, how might it compare to another route of say 30m at the same grade?

Might the moves be more technically difficult on shorter climb?  Will the grade on the longer climb take into account that endurance might be more of a factor?

Looking through guidebooks I've recently bought, I see there are more shorter Sport routes than I expected to see.

As a Sport climbing newbie (but fairly experienced boulderer), I'm wondering if aiming for shorter climbs would be a better idea, until I can improve my endurance.  

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AlanLittle - on 14 May 2019
In reply to afx22:

> Might the moves be more technically difficult on shorter climb?  Will the grade on the longer climb take into account that endurance might be more of a factor?

Yes

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john arran - on 14 May 2019
In reply to afx22:

The grade of a climb roughly equates to the proportion of climbers capable of getting up it, so shorter climbs can be expected to be a bit more taxing move-for-move than longer ones in order to merit the same grade.

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GridNorth - on 14 May 2019
In reply to afx22:

I assume you mean the length of climbs in which case yes.  Indeed when I was on my quest to on sight 7a at 70 I specifically sought out the longer climbs for that very reason as I thought they offered more chance of success (and I enjoy them more). Some routes on Kalymnos are very notable in this regard and some of the > 40 metre climbs can feel quite easy, technically, for the grade when comparing with shorter routes.

Al

Post edited at 16:18
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jimtitt - on 14 May 2019
In reply to GridNorth:

> I assume you mean the length of climbs in which case yes.  Indeed when I was on my quest to on sight 7a at 70 I specifically sought out the longer climbs for that very reason as I thought they offered more chance of success (and I enjoy them more). Some routes on Kalymnos are very notable in this regard and some of the > 40 metre climbs can feel quite easy, technically, for the grade when comparing with shorter routes.

> Al


I'm becoming an expert on long routes in the Frankenjura as I get older, fatter and weaker

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naked ape - on 14 May 2019
In reply to afx22:

Not a dumb question. Yes, aiming for shorter climbs will likely give you best return at first. Luckily for you endurance is quicker and easier to train than power, which you will already have. 

The big challenge I tend to see for people new to sport climbing with a bouldering background is to actually try as hard on the hard moves as when they boulder. 

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afx22 - on 14 May 2019
In reply to afx22:

Thanks for the replies.  I’m really looking forward to getting some mileage in.  Sounds like I should mix it up and try some of the longer routes too.  Cheers.

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