In reply to astley007:
Firstly, I can't wait to get my hands on the guide, it looks brilliant.
Secondly, I'm delighted that the tradition of the moorland sandbag has been kept alive. There is an argument that getting the grades of bold routes literally incorrect is irresponsible, but there's nothing wrong with them being hard for the grade.
When I'm on a bold route, it is purely my judgement that is being tested: can I make those moves without protection, or am I simply not good enough? It would be foolish to rely on the grade: "it's 5b, so that must be a jug, I'll pop for it". Oh. Ouch.
And for protected routes, there's simply nothing wrong with sandbags, they are helpful at making us better climbers.
Every new place I go to I find that the grades are different to other places. I personally find Cornish granite nearly impossible, and have to drop my grade there - that's life. Same, perhaps, with the moorland grit.
Getting your arse kicked teaches you not to invest so much in the grade, nor to rely so heavily on the opinions and experiences of others. And for the ego, once you can get up the hard routes at any given grade, the cruises at the grade above will come thick and fast.
Sounds like I'm on the "man-up" side of this debate then, eh.