In reply to Goucho:
> Looking over the various threads recently, it struck me that a lot of people seem to be going into the minutiae of detail regarding their climbing.
It's a climbing forum, what do you expect? It's a website where sad, obsessive losers (this includes me) can talk to other sad, obsessive losers about everything and anything to do with climbing. TBH I find it much stranger that others come here for never ending political rants/debates and 'which car to buy' threads. Their has got to be better places for these chats but to each their own.
> From requesting almost forensic beta on routes, coaching advice, planning stuff years in advance, and training regimes including psychology and diet.
> I saw one thread where people were discussing the best scales to get, and how they weighed and measured body fat every day, combined with a highly disciplined calorie controlled vegan diet.
> Whilst I can understand that level of regime for the Ondra's of the world, it struck me as a bit extreme and over the top for moving from f6a to f6c.
> And of course, thanks to the interweb, there is a plethora - no, make that avalanche - of information and opinions at our fingertips.
> Yet despite all of this, combined with all the advances in equipment, climbing walls etc, the average grade being climbed today seems to be no harder than back in the comparative dark ages of forty years ago.
Average grade is meaningless. My average grade is about HS but I climb up to E4 (and have dragged my way up to E6). It just means that I still enjoy easier routes. If I go to Stanage on a damp day and bang out 50-60 easy routes it makes a massive difference to my average grade but who cares.
> It's made me think - rightly or wrongly - that maybe all this information, is too much information? Maybe people are possibly over thinking their climbing, resulting in a form of paralysis by analysis?
> That maybe it's better to simplify things, not complicate them?
> Or, to quote Nike, 'Just Do It'.
> Let the dislikes begin
I here comments like this all the time, particularly by the older lot down the wall. The truth is there are tons of people 'just doing it' but the old duffers don't see it. they only get out once a year, probably some midge infested bank holiday Monday at Birchen and wonder why there are swaythes of climbers struggling up vdiffs.
As for the 'over complicating things' comments, particularly about training you may be right, some people do over complicate things but so what? Leave them too it. If someone wants to obsess about training let them do it, it doesn't matter.
I'm a great believer in mileage in climbing is the best for climbing but sometimes training can help immensely and that's coming from someone who would often climb 1000 routes a year (but probably 2000-3000 if I logged repeats.
If I'm not training I drop down to about E1/E2 and when I'm training I'm climbing about E5. That is a very positive correlation that persuades me to go down the wall when I don't fancy it (and I always love it once I get there, it's still climbing).
All this 'better in my day' stuff is just patronising bollocks. There are people climbing some of the harder sport and boulder problems on their first couple of years climbing, we have Japanese boys (as well as Americans)coming over and treating our death routes like boulder problems, girls keeping up with boys, like Mina smashing 'unfamiliar' at Stanage which is an amazing line at the busiest crag in Britain but most boys are too scared to get on it.
Every year Chee Tor gets more and more popular, as well as High Tor.
Ethics are on the whole followed strictly and bolts and pegs are only placed with some very heavy concideration (usually).
Climbing was great then, it's great now, and it'll be great in the future. There's nothing better than pissing about on some rocks.