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So whats this place like then?
I see from the database its steep granite. Sounds good. Maybe some good practice for Cham
Is a visit recommended? I only lead HVS and try not to TR things, plenty stuff available?
Saw the thread about the Peregrine as well, any updates?
Appreciated.
I see from the database its steep granite. Sounds good. Maybe some good practice for Cham
Is a visit recommended? I only lead HVS and try not to TR things, plenty stuff available?
Saw the thread about the Peregrine as well, any updates?
Appreciated.
In reply to 220bpm: It is a great crag, very good short routes. It is a very bad place to practice for Cham, no comparison whatsoever! Go to the Dubh Loch for that!!
In reply to Nj: Steep granite with cracks, sounds Cham jam stylee to me. Got to agree with ya on scale tho..just a wee bit different eh?
Dubh Loch hmmmmmm lovely place but weather maybe a little dubious for that this weekend.
Dubh Loch hmmmmmm lovely place but weather maybe a little dubious for that this weekend.
In reply to 220bpm:
Its a great place. Picturesque. Nice clean pink granite. Shed loads of ants. Shed loads of routes for ANY grade. Set in native woodland. Tier arrangement with steep drop offs. Not far from a decent pub either.
Again, dont know about comparing it with Cham tho!?!
Its a great place. Picturesque. Nice clean pink granite. Shed loads of ants. Shed loads of routes for ANY grade. Set in native woodland. Tier arrangement with steep drop offs. Not far from a decent pub either.
Again, dont know about comparing it with Cham tho!?!
In reply to J Macleod:
Except Moderate. There are no Mod-graded routes at the Pass.
Actually, there is very little below VS, but from that grade up to E6, as you say, there is heaps and heaps to go at, and most of them are good.
Added bonus is that the place faces south and so is a sun-trap. And Black Custard got a mention as one of Steve McClure's favourite E1s on OTE...
> Shed loads of routes for ANY grade.
Except Moderate. There are no Mod-graded routes at the Pass.
Actually, there is very little below VS, but from that grade up to E6, as you say, there is heaps and heaps to go at, and most of them are good.
Added bonus is that the place faces south and so is a sun-trap. And Black Custard got a mention as one of Steve McClure's favourite E1s on OTE...
In reply to Stuart S:
BO - Vdiff
Swivel Head - Diff
Rightguard - VDiff
Aftershave - S
JUmbled Blocks Crack - VDiff
Ping Pong - S
Lime Chimney - VDiff
Jam Crack - S
Corvids Chimney - Vdiff
Eeek - S
Sooty - S
Aid my Robert - Vdiff
I think if you're leading up to HVS like Mr 220bpm and want something to warm up on then theres is enough there...
BO - Vdiff
Swivel Head - Diff
Rightguard - VDiff
Aftershave - S
JUmbled Blocks Crack - VDiff
Ping Pong - S
Lime Chimney - VDiff
Jam Crack - S
Corvids Chimney - Vdiff
Eeek - S
Sooty - S
Aid my Robert - Vdiff
I think if you're leading up to HVS like Mr 220bpm and want something to warm up on then theres is enough there...
In reply to J Macleod:
Ok - the first seven on your list (who do you think you are, btw - me? :-P ) are grouped together on the same bit of crag, but Jam Crack is all by itself amongst harder routes, while the last four are short, scruffy things on the Eastern sector.
And that's 12 routes out of over 110 at the Pass which are below VS. Thanks - I think you proved my comment quite nicely!
That's been two swings and two misses tonight in your attempt to make a point. Keep it up...
Ok - the first seven on your list (who do you think you are, btw - me? :-P ) are grouped together on the same bit of crag, but Jam Crack is all by itself amongst harder routes, while the last four are short, scruffy things on the Eastern sector.
And that's 12 routes out of over 110 at the Pass which are below VS. Thanks - I think you proved my comment quite nicely!
That's been two swings and two misses tonight in your attempt to make a point. Keep it up...
In reply to Stuart S:
Au contraire. I was merely pointing out that there are routes below VS. And at 10% of all the routes at Ballater - I think thats a goodly number.
Of course you being such a brick hard climber and all that wouldnt pay attention to such lowly things would you.....
Au contraire. I was merely pointing out that there are routes below VS. And at 10% of all the routes at Ballater - I think thats a goodly number.
Of course you being such a brick hard climber and all that wouldnt pay attention to such lowly things would you.....
In reply to J Macleod:
Once again, matey, you've shot yourself in the foot (btw, impressed that the gravity field of your ass didn't affect the path of the bullet). Easy - Hard Severe covers 6 grades. VS - E6 (hardest at the Pass) covers 8 grades. If you think that those 6 easier grades being represented by just 10% of the total climbs available is "goodly", well, it just shows how far out of touch with reality you truly are these days...
Course not. You may take the piss (and I know you will), but I'll have you know I once seconded one of the E5s at the Pass (ok, so it was on a very, very, very, very tight rope from above, but I did all the moves - honest....)
> Au contraire. I was merely pointing out that there are routes below VS. And at 10% of all the routes at Ballater - I think thats a goodly number.
Once again, matey, you've shot yourself in the foot (btw, impressed that the gravity field of your ass didn't affect the path of the bullet). Easy - Hard Severe covers 6 grades. VS - E6 (hardest at the Pass) covers 8 grades. If you think that those 6 easier grades being represented by just 10% of the total climbs available is "goodly", well, it just shows how far out of touch with reality you truly are these days...
> Of course you being such a brick hard climber and all that wouldnt pay attention to such lowly things would you.....
Course not. You may take the piss (and I know you will), but I'll have you know I once seconded one of the E5s at the Pass (ok, so it was on a very, very, very, very tight rope from above, but I did all the moves - honest....)
In reply to Stuart S:
Really Stuart. You have to get over this competitive thing. When I offer information, I am offering information. Not entering into a 14 post debate over silly little points.
Tsk...
Really Stuart. You have to get over this competitive thing. When I offer information, I am offering information. Not entering into a 14 post debate over silly little points.
Tsk...
In reply to J Macleod:
Bit late to get guilty about it now - as the cliche says, it takes two...
Anyway, all I did was point out a minor innacuracy in your original information. You're the one who got all riled up.
Tsk...
Bit late to get guilty about it now - as the cliche says, it takes two...
Anyway, all I did was point out a minor innacuracy in your original information. You're the one who got all riled up.
Tsk...
In reply to Stuart S:
And all 220bpm wanted to know was if there was decent stuff under and around the HVS mark. I replied.
Trrrsk...
> (In reply to J Macleod)
>
> Bit late to get guilty about it now - as the cliche says, it takes two...
> all I did was point out a minor innacuracy ..
>
> Bit late to get guilty about it now - as the cliche says, it takes two...
> all I did was point out a minor innacuracy ..
And all 220bpm wanted to know was if there was decent stuff under and around the HVS mark. I replied.
Trrrsk...
In reply to J Macleod:
Yup, and I agreed with most of what you originally wrote, with the minor qualification that there were no moderates, and few routes under VS. Which is factually correct.
I'd have thought you'd have been pleased that I actually agreed with something you'd posted, but oh-no, you had to go and get all stroppy, didn't you?
Trrsk? That some kind of mock-doric version of tsk?
Tsk...
Yup, and I agreed with most of what you originally wrote, with the minor qualification that there were no moderates, and few routes under VS. Which is factually correct.
I'd have thought you'd have been pleased that I actually agreed with something you'd posted, but oh-no, you had to go and get all stroppy, didn't you?
> Trrrsk...
Trrsk? That some kind of mock-doric version of tsk?
Tsk...
In reply to Stuart S:
Stroppy? Where have I been stroppy? Simply offering information to a fellow climber dear boy.
Factual 'correctness' is not really relevant in this case. If 220bpm was climbing in the upper echelons of our little hobby then Diff - VS cragging was hardly likely to interest him. However as he climbs HVS I simply put to him that he might like to enjoy a few easier routes as a warm up and gave him the details of those routes. I apologise if those routes don;t meet your exacting standards.
Small, irrelevant points serve no purpose other than confusing the issue.
Helvette!
Did you have a good time 220bpm? Did you make it to POB?
Stroppy? Where have I been stroppy? Simply offering information to a fellow climber dear boy.
Factual 'correctness' is not really relevant in this case. If 220bpm was climbing in the upper echelons of our little hobby then Diff - VS cragging was hardly likely to interest him. However as he climbs HVS I simply put to him that he might like to enjoy a few easier routes as a warm up and gave him the details of those routes. I apologise if those routes don;t meet your exacting standards.
Small, irrelevant points serve no purpose other than confusing the issue.
Helvette!
Did you have a good time 220bpm? Did you make it to POB?
In reply to J Macleod:
You offered 220bpm some information, to which I largely agreed and added to, except that I had the apparent audacity, nay bare-faced cheek, to correct part of what you'd written as it appeared, in my experience, to be somewhat misleading (specifically, as to whether there is an abundance of routes below VS at the Pass or not).
You then threw the teddy out of the pram and started listing as many routes as you could in order to justify having hung your coat on a shoogly peg. By that stage, you were bickering with me and no longer attempting to help anyone but yourself. Get off your moral soapbox, wifey!
And what has being Swiss got to do with anything?!?
You offered 220bpm some information, to which I largely agreed and added to, except that I had the apparent audacity, nay bare-faced cheek, to correct part of what you'd written as it appeared, in my experience, to be somewhat misleading (specifically, as to whether there is an abundance of routes below VS at the Pass or not).
You then threw the teddy out of the pram and started listing as many routes as you could in order to justify having hung your coat on a shoogly peg. By that stage, you were bickering with me and no longer attempting to help anyone but yourself. Get off your moral soapbox, wifey!
And what has being Swiss got to do with anything?!?
In reply to Stuart S: you guys have a crap weekend or are we starting the week as we mean to continue ?
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Had a great weekend thanks (and planning to go to the Pass this evening as it happens, so the week is off to a good start too!).
This arguement started on Friday, actually, and is just another example of Jo keeping the wheel spinning long after the hamster is dead...
Had a great weekend thanks (and planning to go to the Pass this evening as it happens, so the week is off to a good start too!).
This arguement started on Friday, actually, and is just another example of Jo keeping the wheel spinning long after the hamster is dead...
In reply to Stuart S: ah !
have fun tonight - i wish I could force another day out but i need a rest even though the long ranger looks a little crap for the rest of the week !!
went to logie and cummingston on the weekend...
good laugh!
have fun k
have fun tonight - i wish I could force another day out but i need a rest even though the long ranger looks a little crap for the rest of the week !!
went to logie and cummingston on the weekend...
good laugh!
have fun k
In reply to Stuart S:
Me thinks the lady doth protest too much dearie. You started this. I have at no stage bickered and only wanted to help. You could have just kept your mouth shut but no - not only do you swallow guidebooks whole but you seem insistent on regurjitating irrelevant facts from them at every conceivable opportunity.
And its Norwegian....
Hallo Kev - fantastic weekend thanks
Me thinks the lady doth protest too much dearie. You started this. I have at no stage bickered and only wanted to help. You could have just kept your mouth shut but no - not only do you swallow guidebooks whole but you seem insistent on regurjitating irrelevant facts from them at every conceivable opportunity.
And its Norwegian....
Hallo Kev - fantastic weekend thanks
In reply to J Macleod:
Um - who was it who felt the urge to list every single climb at the Pass below VS on an earlier post to this thread? I'd offer you a spade, but you seem to be digging that hole pretty well all by yourself...
What is this? Norwayclimbing.com? Piss off over to Scandinavia if you like their language so much!
> ...but you seem insistent on regurjitating irrelevant facts from them at every conceivable opportunity
Um - who was it who felt the urge to list every single climb at the Pass below VS on an earlier post to this thread? I'd offer you a spade, but you seem to be digging that hole pretty well all by yourself...
> And its Norwegian....
What is this? Norwayclimbing.com? Piss off over to Scandinavia if you like their language so much!
In reply to 220bpm:
Lead Little Cenotaph. What a belter. Pink wall is next door to it- I couldn't get off the ground. Sob. Which is annoying as they're pretty much the same grade on paper (about VS)
Lead Little Cenotaph. What a belter. Pink wall is next door to it- I couldn't get off the ground. Sob. Which is annoying as they're pretty much the same grade on paper (about VS)
In reply to norton850: stu u def need to go home and start the day again ! I must admit having seen you in action at any opportunity to regurgitate guide book info !!
you should but some other books in the toilet for better reading etc...
If i said what is the route which is 2cm tothe left of the pink pebble which is oposite the west facing corner of a shallow grove on hells lum you could probs get it right ....
you should but some other books in the toilet for better reading etc...
If i said what is the route which is 2cm tothe left of the pink pebble which is oposite the west facing corner of a shallow grove on hells lum you could probs get it right ....
In reply to J Macleod: what did ya do at the weekend - let go of stu's rope ?
or did you untie and make him ab down the route always a good way to anoy a mate...
kev
or did you untie and make him ab down the route always a good way to anoy a mate...
kev
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Oi! Don't you start! It was her wot started quoting guidebooks this time (ok, so she was probably trying to do an impression of me, but let's not allow that to get in the way of a good arguement!).
And as for the Hell's Lum route - not sure - is it Salamander
Oi! Don't you start! It was her wot started quoting guidebooks this time (ok, so she was probably trying to do an impression of me, but let's not allow that to get in the way of a good arguement!).
And as for the Hell's Lum route - not sure - is it Salamander
In reply to Stuart S: good try geekit is actually prince of darkness (but the pebble bit was there as a made up bit..)
kev
kev
In reply to Kevin Neal:
I knew that the pebble thing was just an attempt to throw me off the scent. What do you take me for? Some sort of amateur?
I knew that the pebble thing was just an attempt to throw me off the scent. What do you take me for? Some sort of amateur?
In reply to Stuart S: I would never say such a thing sir !
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Thank you Kev - thats several pints next time I see you
No he managed to balls up Saturday all by himself! Got to let kids find their own way y'know
Thank you Kev - thats several pints next time I see you
No he managed to balls up Saturday all by himself! Got to let kids find their own way y'know
In reply to J Macleod:
What's this? You need to bribe folk with beer to get them to support your side of an arguement? How pathetic.
What's this? You need to bribe folk with beer to get them to support your side of an arguement? How pathetic.
In reply to 220bpm:
Gorgeous pink granite crag if those two stop arguing for a minute...
Took a few routes to get used to after being a grit fiend, but was well impressed once I did. Gorgeous setting too.
Well worth a visit in its own right if youre close enough.
Gorgeous pink granite crag if those two stop arguing for a minute...
Took a few routes to get used to after being a grit fiend, but was well impressed once I did. Gorgeous setting too.
Well worth a visit in its own right if youre close enough.
In reply to Tigger:
Sorry mum!
Anyway, was up at Ballater again last night in the evening sunshine and had a great sesh, even managing to squeeze in a new route at about E2, or thereabouts, while my partner made a very steady lead of the bold and brittle Fungus Face.
Top venue and great routes, no matter what grade they are!
Sorry mum!
Anyway, was up at Ballater again last night in the evening sunshine and had a great sesh, even managing to squeeze in a new route at about E2, or thereabouts, while my partner made a very steady lead of the bold and brittle Fungus Face.
Top venue and great routes, no matter what grade they are!
In reply to Stuart S:
How did you manage that? Where is it?
> (In reply to Tigger)
>
>
> even managing to squeeze in a new route at about E2, or thereabouts
How did you manage that? Where is it?
In reply to SornaBob:
Start up the little crack to the left of Jumbled Blocks Crack, and then make a couple of hard moves up onto the hanging flake/shield to the left (there's an obvious jug to go for, but nothing for the feet), finishing up Razor's Crack. We reckoned about E2 5c, and quite bold at that.
Start up the little crack to the left of Jumbled Blocks Crack, and then make a couple of hard moves up onto the hanging flake/shield to the left (there's an obvious jug to go for, but nothing for the feet), finishing up Razor's Crack. We reckoned about E2 5c, and quite bold at that.
In reply to Stuart S: fungus face is nae brittle at all it is great rock - it is just the book decided to copy the old book description again...
yes it did look a great night last night !
ps jo mine's a red wine (current booze choice)
pps stu might have a go at your route soon, keep you posted..
kev
yes it did look a great night last night !
ps jo mine's a red wine (current booze choice)
pps stu might have a go at your route soon, keep you posted..
kev
In reply to Stuart S:
There should be an elimate between Jumbled Blocks crack and Ping Pong, if for no other reason than to call it Jumbled Pong
There should be an elimate between Jumbled Blocks crack and Ping Pong, if for no other reason than to call it Jumbled Pong
In reply to Stuart S:
I am sure your new line was done in the late 80's by members of the Lairig club (Neil Brodie, Steve Cardwell) but it was decided not worthy of recording.
Sorry
I am sure your new line was done in the late 80's by members of the Lairig club (Neil Brodie, Steve Cardwell) but it was decided not worthy of recording.
Sorry
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Well, Diane broke a wee bit of rock trying for a gear placement, so it is a bit snappy. Great moves though, and pretty straightforward to second if you're my height. Diane would have decked out from the crux move on the lead though.
Please do let me know how you get on if you try the new thing. It's not the best line, obviously, but the moves are thought-provoking and fun, and I'd be interested in a second opinion on the grade.
Well, Diane broke a wee bit of rock trying for a gear placement, so it is a bit snappy. Great moves though, and pretty straightforward to second if you're my height. Diane would have decked out from the crux move on the lead though.
Please do let me know how you get on if you try the new thing. It's not the best line, obviously, but the moves are thought-provoking and fun, and I'd be interested in a second opinion on the grade.
In reply to Alastair:
You sure you're not thinking of Skidmarks? That pair definitely made the first ascent of that route, although I seem to recall a lot of hoo-ha about top-rope practice first etc. If they recorded Skidmarks after all that, I can't believe they'd have left this other thing unmentioned. Having done both lines this year, it is (in my opinion, of course!), a better climb than Skidmarks (which gets far too contrived in ignoring the crack of Aftershave in its top section).
You sure you're not thinking of Skidmarks? That pair definitely made the first ascent of that route, although I seem to recall a lot of hoo-ha about top-rope practice first etc. If they recorded Skidmarks after all that, I can't believe they'd have left this other thing unmentioned. Having done both lines this year, it is (in my opinion, of course!), a better climb than Skidmarks (which gets far too contrived in ignoring the crack of Aftershave in its top section).
In reply to Stuart S:
Maybe you are right, don't have the guide to hand- must really be squeezing the lines in to get another independant route on that piece of rock though, eh?
PS Isn't Fungus face in reality about HVS 4c? It is way way easier than the neighbouring Stinker- could never understand why they were the same grade.
Maybe you are right, don't have the guide to hand- must really be squeezing the lines in to get another independant route on that piece of rock though, eh?
PS Isn't Fungus face in reality about HVS 4c? It is way way easier than the neighbouring Stinker- could never understand why they were the same grade.
In reply to Alastair: aye but we all know stinker is a one move wonder and great gear -the move is harder than all the other 5b's in the pass..
go on stu please correct me !
go on stu please correct me !
In reply to Alastair:
It is definitely squeezed in, but I suppose you could say it's similar in style to Dod's Dead Cat in that it's a link between two existing routes. On the plus side, the linking moves on this new thing are the crux, and are quite bouldery in nature - good fun, even though the route is pretty trivial.
Fungus Face - yeah, I actually suggested downgrading it to HVS 4c for the new guide, but to no avail. Still, it's a bold lead, whatever the grade - definite deck-out potential from the crux move.
It is definitely squeezed in, but I suppose you could say it's similar in style to Dod's Dead Cat in that it's a link between two existing routes. On the plus side, the linking moves on this new thing are the crux, and are quite bouldery in nature - good fun, even though the route is pretty trivial.
Fungus Face - yeah, I actually suggested downgrading it to HVS 4c for the new guide, but to no avail. Still, it's a bold lead, whatever the grade - definite deck-out potential from the crux move.
In reply to Kevin Neal:
On Stinker, do you think the crux is the move over the roof, or the move after the move over the roof?
On Stinker, do you think the crux is the move over the roof, or the move after the move over the roof?
In reply to Stuart S: god since this was one of my early test routes (1st or 2nd e1) - THINK i spent about an hour on it the first attempt.. Probs the move after the roof, in that getting you feet over the roof..
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Coincidentally enough, Stinker was my first E1 on-sight as well! Found it ok then - big reach round the roof, and then ok to the top. Led Anni up it earlier this year, and there is definitely a harder move to get your feet above the roof, as you say. Don't think it's too bad for 5b providing you can find/reach the positive crimp, but it's desperate without it.
Coincidentally enough, Stinker was my first E1 on-sight as well! Found it ok then - big reach round the roof, and then ok to the top. Led Anni up it earlier this year, and there is definitely a harder move to get your feet above the roof, as you say. Don't think it's too bad for 5b providing you can find/reach the positive crimp, but it's desperate without it.
In reply to J Macleod:
Nah, chickened out. Sounded too controversial
A good forecast led us up into Coire an Lochain where we camped on Saturday night and did Savage Slit and Prore on Sunday. Quality climbing but we had a stash up there from last time which had been nicked.
Starting another thread on that one.
>
> Did you have a good time 220bpm? Did you make it to POB?
> Did you have a good time 220bpm? Did you make it to POB?
Nah, chickened out. Sounded too controversial
A good forecast led us up into Coire an Lochain where we camped on Saturday night and did Savage Slit and Prore on Sunday. Quality climbing but we had a stash up there from last time which had been nicked.
Starting another thread on that one.
Stuart and Jo:
Thanks for the responses! Made some amusing reading and I feel like I know the crag really well. Stastically, almost analy well in fact
Cheers
Thanks for the responses! Made some amusing reading and I feel like I know the crag really well. Stastically, almost analy well in fact
Cheers
In reply to 220bpm:
Your are welcome!
We are here to provide a service! Any crag anywhere in the NE of Scotland and some further afeild. I will provide information, Stuart will then follow up with corrections and patronise me and then I will smack him round the head.
Sort of like 'NE Outcrops' but with violence
Your are welcome!
We are here to provide a service! Any crag anywhere in the NE of Scotland and some further afeild. I will provide information, Stuart will then follow up with corrections and patronise me and then I will smack him round the head.
Sort of like 'NE Outcrops' but with violence
In reply to 220bpm:
PS I am glad you had a good time at NC's. Think we're up there this weekend coming (barring torrential downpours)
PS I am glad you had a good time at NC's. Think we're up there this weekend coming (barring torrential downpours)
In reply to J Macleod and Stuart:
Right then, I want all the beta on this little baby:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=5007
I have actually bouldered there with a mate from milltimber, but I was just wondering what grade the central line with the overlapping roofs goes at?
Felicitations,
Colski
Right then, I want all the beta on this little baby:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=5007
I have actually bouldered there with a mate from milltimber, but I was just wondering what grade the central line with the overlapping roofs goes at?
Felicitations,
Colski
In reply to J Macleod: 5b
In reply to J Macleod:
LOL!
Actually, my knowledge of the NE area outwith the Gorms is embarrasingly poor so may I nominate you as information officer for the area?
>
>> Sort of like 'NE Outcrops' but with violence
LOL!
Actually, my knowledge of the NE area outwith the Gorms is embarrasingly poor so may I nominate you as information officer for the area?
In reply to Kevin Neal: ps you werent suppose to put this on.. this was a hidden milltimber place...
as it was also my first real rock !
I is also from the great westend of milltimber...
as it was also my first real rock !
I is also from the great westend of milltimber...
In reply to Kevin Neal:
It is NEVER 5b!
cue grade debate
220bpm: You may, but on your own head be it LOL!
It is NEVER 5b!
cue grade debate
220bpm: You may, but on your own head be it LOL!
In reply to Kevin Neal:
I wasn't joking when I said I'd climbed there, up in the woods behind culter? Favourite dog walking spot? Wee quarry type thing? Don't worry, I won't tell anyone though.
I wasn't joking when I said I'd climbed there, up in the woods behind culter? Favourite dog walking spot? Wee quarry type thing? Don't worry, I won't tell anyone though.
In reply to colski:
I gave it a glorious Diff when I did it! Sorry if that's dented any of the other posters egos! Jugs all the way!
I gave it a glorious Diff when I did it! Sorry if that's dented any of the other posters egos! Jugs all the way!
In reply to Stuart S: ass the bit on the right is never diff. what about the arret tothe right ?
what grade ?
kev
what grade ?
kev
In reply to Kevin Neal:
I thought we were talking about the central line with the overlaps at the top. I used to use that as a descent line when I was a kid!
The overhanging wall to its right is where the harder stuff is. The arete is 5a-ish, the wall to its left similar and all the way to the top left again was pushing 5b if I recall correctly
I thought we were talking about the central line with the overlaps at the top. I used to use that as a descent line when I was a kid!
The overhanging wall to its right is where the harder stuff is. The arete is 5a-ish, the wall to its left similar and all the way to the top left again was pushing 5b if I recall correctly
In reply to colski:
It's not a dry tooling venue! Fook off!!
Though I have climbed there in deepest mid-winter when the sun's been out (the place is a sun trap)...
It's not a dry tooling venue! Fook off!!
Though I have climbed there in deepest mid-winter when the sun's been out (the place is a sun trap)...
In reply to Kevin Neal:
I've seen the scratches myself...
Ah well, it's only a quarry and is probably a fair venue. Just that it's got all the sentimental attachments for me, given that it's where it all began...
I've seen the scratches myself...
Ah well, it's only a quarry and is probably a fair venue. Just that it's got all the sentimental attachments for me, given that it's where it all began...
In reply to Stuart S: i was thinking of cleaning up the other section...
ps some wee SH*** from culter I think chipped holds near the arete...
ps some wee SH*** from culter I think chipped holds near the arete...
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Wilson Moir cleaned up the gorge round the back when I was climbing there - removed the turf cornice etc. That was 15 years ago and more, so no idea what state it'll be in now. Did some pretty good problems up the highest section of wall - again in the 5a/5b range. Plus I remember the traverse there and back as being fun.
Let me know if you need a hand with the clean-up...
Wilson Moir cleaned up the gorge round the back when I was climbing there - removed the turf cornice etc. That was 15 years ago and more, so no idea what state it'll be in now. Did some pretty good problems up the highest section of wall - again in the 5a/5b range. Plus I remember the traverse there and back as being fun.
Let me know if you need a hand with the clean-up...
In reply to Stuart S: well - hows about a team clean up next week ! the otherside is probs better potential..
sandy ritchie (cults and the mighty bp) is also up for a slight cleaning exercise..
sandy ritchie (cults and the mighty bp) is also up for a slight cleaning exercise..
In reply to Kevin Neal:
Offshore next week
Just for the middle of the week, so the week after could work, if you guys haven't finished the job by then!
Offshore next week
Just for the middle of the week, so the week after could work, if you guys haven't finished the job by then!
In reply to anyone:
can anyone give me the grid ref for that quarry mentioned, i know it looks crap but i'm pretty desperate. i'm sure i've climbed at crappier quarries before. its not the one mentioned in NE outcrops near drumoak is it? as i was there on sunday and that seemed much bigger and overgrown, still worth another visit though. I'm in the process of ticking off the quarries and crag outcrops listed in the local landranger to check for any climbing potential.
can anyone give me the grid ref for that quarry mentioned, i know it looks crap but i'm pretty desperate. i'm sure i've climbed at crappier quarries before. its not the one mentioned in NE outcrops near drumoak is it? as i was there on sunday and that seemed much bigger and overgrown, still worth another visit though. I'm in the process of ticking off the quarries and crag outcrops listed in the local landranger to check for any climbing potential.
the place looks amazing in the guidebook I've just received in the post...
Stuart S...ta chuck...
M
Stuart S...ta chuck...
M
the guidebooks pretty amazing as well....
mick
mick
In reply to J Macleod:
ROFL!! Your new incarnation has a lot better sense of humour than the old one :P
POB....sounds great....hopefully up there soon...
> We are here to provide a service! Any crag anywhere in the NE of Scotland and some further afeild. I will provide information, Stuart will then follow up with corrections and patronise me and then I will smack him round the head.
>
> Sort of like 'NE Outcrops' but with violence
>
> Sort of like 'NE Outcrops' but with violence
ROFL!! Your new incarnation has a lot better sense of humour than the old one :P
POB....sounds great....hopefully up there soon...
In reply to Stuart S: he will never find it....
In reply to domk: went last eve -avoided rain not sure how... did 6 routes ! top night out know one there...
In reply to Kevin Neal:
was there last night, found it easily. i was very pleasantly surprised when i stumbled across it, as at first i thought it was the long very mossy wall behind it. But it has some very good problems on it (even more so when you compare it to some of the crap at luath and craigmaroinn). the slab right of the decent is very good. as is the the arete on the far right. and there is a good tricky problem in between those two climbs on the verticla face with very few holds, i reckon its about 6a ( it has a reachy finish). I'm headed back there today, i think i'll be spending a lot of time there this summer since its only about 3 miles from where i stay. |Thanks for the info.
was there last night, found it easily. i was very pleasantly surprised when i stumbled across it, as at first i thought it was the long very mossy wall behind it. But it has some very good problems on it (even more so when you compare it to some of the crap at luath and craigmaroinn). the slab right of the decent is very good. as is the the arete on the far right. and there is a good tricky problem in between those two climbs on the verticla face with very few holds, i reckon its about 6a ( it has a reachy finish). I'm headed back there today, i think i'll be spending a lot of time there this summer since its only about 3 miles from where i stay. |Thanks for the info.
In reply to domk:
Glad you liked the place, although I'm not sure how you found anything harder than 5b-ish, unless you're eliminating holds? For an unusual challenge, try traversing the entire wall one-handed at low level. Requires very good balance crossing the overhanging wall to the left of the arete.
The long mossy wall in behind should re-clean up to give some more worthwhile problems - I think Kev and myself and a couple of others are hoping to tackle it in the not too distant future...
Glad you liked the place, although I'm not sure how you found anything harder than 5b-ish, unless you're eliminating holds? For an unusual challenge, try traversing the entire wall one-handed at low level. Requires very good balance crossing the overhanging wall to the left of the arete.
The long mossy wall in behind should re-clean up to give some more worthwhile problems - I think Kev and myself and a couple of others are hoping to tackle it in the not too distant future...
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