/ Pillar of Dreams, Meteora, Greece

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RyanA on 11 Mar 2019

Hi All,

I'm heading to Meteora in Greece in mid April and was looking to hire a guide for a climbing trip as I'm travelling alone. A couple of questions if anyone has been or knows the area;

1) Any recommendations for guides/companies to hire. Reviews seem a bit touch and go with some I have seen. Communication hasn't been great from them either.

2) One engaging guide has offered two interesting options. One is Dupiani Top and the other is the Pillar of Dreams. I can find information on the Pillar, but none on Dupiani. Has anyone got any experience of this?

3) At 259m (9 pitches), the pillar of dreams seems to be quite a hefty climb. I climbed Jacobs ladder on Table Mountain at 100m and was fine, but could feel it towards the top. Is the pillar fairly crimpy or are there juggy holds to get a hang of? 259m of crimp would need some more prep I feel. I have been climbing for a few years, but would need to build some more stamina.

Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated. The area looks amazing to climb. The company that was quite engaging was 'Trekking Hellas' if anyone has heard of them.

Cheers all

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jimtitt - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to RyanA:

Crimping isn't what springs to my mind related to Meteora! Pillar is just steady mid-HVS but fairly unrelenting (or samey), there's plenty of it. I did it in 4 pitches which is pretty normal with a 60 or 70 rope.

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Deadeye - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to RyanA:

I've been twice and done both these.

I have the old guidebook - pm me if you want a scan of the topos.

The climbing is almost entirely slabby with pebbles for balance (and feet).  It takes a little getting used to.  The gear is almost solely bolts (unless you lasso the odd pebble); they're quite spaced and also can be hard to spot.

Climbing was banned in meteora a few years ago.  That may have changed, but you should probably check!

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Deadeye - on 11 Mar 2019
In reply to RyanA:

Hi again

I dug out my guide.

Did two routes on Doupianifels (two abs and scramble to descend):

- Sudostwand VII- 6 pitches 160m ***

- Ostkante V+ 4 pitches 125m **

Same guide gives

- Traumpfeiler V+ 9 pitches 250m ***

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RyanA on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

Cheers All!

I do enjoy a slabby balance route down at the bouldering hall (albeit for 4 meters). I might just do some strength training on these for the next few weeks to build up to that distance. I'll be seconding after a guide, so hopefully should be fairly straightforward. It's coming in at about £250 for the pillar at the moment for a guide. I'll check with them about it being banned and make sure it's still a green light. They seem happy enough to take me....

The other they have suggested on the Doupiani is the Pantokratorsas ridge which looks like a very easy 6a+. Not too sure if the pictures are deceiving or if the route is as simple as it looks.

I'll check out the ones you have suggested in your guide too.

Thanks all for your help.

Post edited at 11:15
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