In reply to Rick Graham:
I remember climbing with Andy Parkin on Great End one scorching Sunday in '76. On Goat, Big Ron was doing the second ascent of Footless. Gommie (the highly underrated Pete Gommersall) was doing the third ascent of Bitter Oasis. Both were largely operating in a steely silence (although there may have been the occasional, "Watch me!")
Meanwhile a team of five (or six?) were on PM. Technical grades of aforesaid five (or six?) varied from 4c to (hard) 6b. But they all had one fatal flaw in common; they were accustomed to seconding, not leading.
Everybody fell off - usually several times. No pitch was successfully led by the original aspirant. As the afternoon wore on and height was (slowly) gained, weariness set in and tempers grew ever more frayed. The sound of raised voices carried straight across the valley.
"It's your turn to lead!" "No, it's your bloody turn!!" etc, etc.
I wryly grinned at Andy. He shrugged and grinned back in sympathy.
Crazy days.
Mick