UKC

/ Question about Parle, at Toix

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betathief - on 10 Jan 2018
Hey,

I did this route the other day, and as I was behind a group and I just followed their line without checking the guidebook.

On the second pitch we traversed left and then up a crack/groove on the left, to a belay and then traversed back right to the hanging belay. The guidebook says to climb directly above the belay, although the picture topo is hard to see.

It was bloody hard work, and most posts on the logbooks say that the third pitch was the crux, after the second pitch, for me the third pitch was a breeze! Just wanting to check whether I was pussy on the second pitch, or that I had strayed onto a harder route and can feel a bit better about myself?

Cheers for any input!

ian caton on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to betathief:

Can't help, but what state were the bolts in?
Mark Eddy - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to betathief:

I was on Parle today. The groove sounds right for pitch 2, it's up then slightly left of the belay. At a break there's a short traverse rightwards to the hanging belay. Seems like you may have followed bolts further left (Captain Barbossa? which is a fair bit more difficult).

3rd pitch is defo the crux.

I've included a blog link here, the first photo shows part of p2: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/christmas-day-climb-parle

Hope that's helpful

Mark
Mark Eddy - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to ian caton:

Bolts mostly look to be in good condition. There's a 3rd bolt on the hanging belay (the highest of the 3 bolts on it), that's seen better days.
philhilo - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to ian caton:

I think the bolts were replaced last year.
betathief - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Mark Eddy: thanks mark, I can see from your photo that we had gone further left on the second pitch. This has made me feel a little better about the whole experience! As for the bolts, (although some seem to be on another route) they were good. On the hanging belay there was three, one was not so good, although the first bolt for the next pitch is easily in reach so could use that as an alternative if feeling overly exposed.

 


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