UKC

Resurrection - pockety?

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 fammer 26 Aug 2020

Heading up to North Wales this weekend and thinking of doing Resurrection. Only catch is I'm sporting a bit of a finger injury (ring finger) from pulling on a 2 finger pocket. I can climb totally unimpeded other than when I pull open handed with my ring finger with my pinky dropped (so front 3 and middle 2 on pockets generally). 

So I'm wondering, how pockety is Resurrection, will I get away with it?

 Theo Moore 26 Aug 2020
In reply to fammer:

I don't remember it being particularly pockety, just long and sustained. It looks quite cool this weekend which could be good - it's a long way and your toes take some punishment if it's hot!

In reply to fammer:

Don't remember any pockets. A good deal of crack

OP fammer 26 Aug 2020

Cool, thanks guys, sounds like it's on. I wouldn't have expected it to be based on my previous experience of climbing on the cromlech, but there was a logbook comment that mentioned a 'wall of 2 finger pockets' that put me off!

 Stone Muppet 26 Aug 2020

The technical crux was quite crimpy but not pockety if I recall correctly. There was a pocket or two leading up to it but possibly large enough for all fingers (I don't remember) and not doing 6a moves on them.

Also recovering from a ring pully injury I've noticed that if I can be disciplined enough to keep my pinky straight (though unused) rather than dropping it, that helps things. When did you do the pully?

Good luck on Resurrection - I fell off near the end though not saying why as that may constitute more beta than you want

OP fammer 26 Aug 2020
In reply to fammer:

I did it about 2 weeks ago, I've identified it as what's referred to by some as a 'flexor unit strain' rather than a pulley. Advice seems to be keep climbing but avoid agitating it. The injury involved a deep lock off on a poor 2 finger pocket, leading to a shocking sensation from the base of the finger all the way up my forearm. Quite unpleasant.

And yes, no more beta please 

 redjerry 26 Aug 2020
In reply to fammer:

I think what happens with that injury is that the muscle bellies that control the pinky and the ring finger have some fibres in common. So with the ring finger pulling hard in an open position and the pinky curled way back the connective tissue can partially rip (longways I think).  It can actually be a pretty bad injury that can cause pain for years afterwards depending on how badly you do it.  The good news is that it only affects you on holds that tend to make the pinky want to curl back. There are some workarounds when climbing and also some stretches that can help.

OP fammer 26 Aug 2020
In reply to redjerry:

Yeah thanks, that's more or less what I've found out, seems like it can take a long time to heal. I've read Dave MacLeod's section on it in make or break which says all this.

 Cake 29 Aug 2020
In reply to fammer:

I found strapping my pinkie to the ring finger helped to force me to keep them doing the same thing.

It took a while to recover completely but I could climb pretty hard throughout off I was careful like it sounds you are trying to be.


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