UKC

Rewind, Carn Vellan, 2nd Ascent!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Tom Last 18 Jun 2020

“I drunk vodka, smoked pipe and ate pasties only on rest days...”

Local strongman Wojciech Szymanowicz rope solos Rewind!

https://www.facebook.com/117808855001568/posts/3026953207420437/

Post edited at 08:10
 Andy Hemsted 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Tom Last:

An impressive achievement as a lead rope-solo, and lovely photos.

When are 'foreigners' going to be welcomed back into Cornwall, please? ... not that Rewind will be on my list.....

OP Tom Last 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Andy Hemsted:

A few more generations and you’ll be alright I think  

 Franco Cookson 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Tom Last:

This is such a visionary and brilliant piece of climbing, it's scarcely believable. This crag is one of the most impressive and radge bits of rock I've ever seen. The idea of top rope shunting the thing is intimidating enough, but to set out on it self-belaying on lead is most definitely bonkers! I mean just wow!

What a quality new chapter in Cornish climbing and what a brilliant way to take the level of controversy to the next level. Rope solo, just class! For the sake of future doubters, I hope to god he's got some witnesses or footage of the ascent. Probably more fun if he doesn't though

3
 Lankyman 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Tom Last:

Not wanting to drag up old controversy but was this originally fully bolted as a sport route and then de-bolted?

OP Tom Last 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

That’s right. Blue Sky Lightning, was it? 

 broc 18 Jun 2020
In reply to Tom Last:

I'm surprised that this hasn't had more of a reaction on here. Great stuff! 

The first repeat of the UK's first claimed E10 (albeit with a suggested regrade to E9 7a) should be big news, surely!

I agree with Franco, the lack of belayer gives wonderful opportunity for more controversy

 

2
 Cusco 19 Jun 2020
In reply to broc:

"I'm surprised that this hasn't had more of a reaction on here. Great stuff! 

The first repeat of the UK's first claimed E10 (albeit with a suggested regrade to E9 7a) should be big news, surely!"

The thread title didn't mention the 'red rag to the bulls' E name so the usual UKC gnashing of teeth has yet to start.

Great effort Wojciech. Roped solo! Zooming into that first photo is amazing!

 Cusco 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

"Not wanting to drag up old controversy but..." 

A classic way to drag up the old controversy!

Was the 'de-bolting' just cutting through the eyes of the bolts rather than removing them?  

 Mark Kemball 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Cusco:

The de-bolting followed a massive debate at a specially convened very well attended BMC area meeting which agreed a no fixed gear policy for West Penwith.

 AJM 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Cusco:

I don't know if it's been tidied up since, but the only time I've been down there - maybe 05-ish - they were all still there just with the eyes cut through, as you say.

A right mess.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

> The de-bolting followed a massive debate at a specially convened very well attended BMC area meeting which agreed a no fixed gear policy for West Penwith.

So did the bolting, surely?!

"This is different than most common lead rope solo set ups. None of my methods are recognised as safe and both devices were used against manufacturer’s guidance and recommendation."

That's the most Polish thing I've ever heard in my life; reminds me of my Romanian friends who taught themselves to climb and managed up to around 8a with entirely home-manufactured equipment. You have to love EE climbers in general, and Mr Szymanowicz in particular.

jcm

 Mark Kemball 19 Jun 2020
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

If I remember correctly (it was quite a while ago), the meeting was set up because of local objections to the placing of the bolts at Carn Vellan and Sennen (and possibly one or two other places). The bolts were then chopped after the meeting.

 Cusco 19 Jun 2020
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Indeed.

But I was not referring to the decision to de-bolt or the concensus behind it or the West Penwith policy but rather how I had understood it had been carried out - merely cutting the eyes and leaving the bolts in situ rather than removing them or cutting them off (which would be the more usual meaning of the word "chopped" in your reply to JCM). 

If the bolts could be put in in the first place, then they could have been removed/chopped to de-bolt.

Ach, it's so many years ago now. 1992 or 1993 was it...?

It's always good to see the rare repeats of ME's hard routes. And this repeat by Wojciech is a blinder. 

2

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...