UKC

Hey folks,

Once we are all back climbing I have set my eyes on redpointing Rubicon... I've belayed a pal on it before but he onsighted it placing draws on the way up... Is it poss to ab down to it and place the draws and set up a TR ?

Your best bet by a significant margin would be to go from the ground up, using a clipstick if you need to. Due to the steepness it'd probably be 7a+ just getting the draws in from abseil, harder than the route itself!!

If done this way you may need to do a few moves to get from the top bolt to the lower-off (as the clipstick won't bend around the top lip), but it'll still be around a thousand times easier than getting them in from the abseil.

Same goes for working it, a top rope would be a nightmare as you'd be constantly swinging out, so stick to going bolt to bolt until you're ready for the redpoint.

Have fun (and good luck)!

Great shout! Cheers pal

I don't think Derbyshire Wildlife Trust would be too impressed with you thrashing about in the undergrowth above Rubicon. I have just been proofing the new Peak Limestone guidebook; in W-c-J and Cheedale there are repeated warnings about not topping out and not exploring beyond the listed routes,

Chris

Also thinking of doing this but have access to a rope-gun to solve the clip problem...

Pretty sure you could clip every bolt from the ground with a clip stick except the one after the lip which is in easy territory. 

Now we're talking

With the new BetaStick EVO or the Pongoose 1000+ you probably wouldn't be far off either!

Maybe use combined tactics in clip sticking to get that just-out-of-reach bolt 

I mean if this isn't climbing I don't know what is...apart from actually climbing...

We've clipped all the bolts and the lower offs on Raw Deal at Cheddar standing on the ground with the old long Beta stick. Clipping the lower offs was great fun! It was like a slap (clip) stick sport in itself.  

Is the lower-off still a single bolt? Never struck me as particularly confidence inspiring: I'm used to Frankenjura single bolt lower offs, but Peak lime strikes me as generally a bit more detachable.