UKC

I am thinking of climbing Sadgill Wall as a team of 3. Are the stances roomy enough without a major faff. Any other info on the route worth knowing. Thanks

Sadgill Wall (S 4a)

What guidebook do you have? The recent FRCC/Wired select guidebook is particularly naff for this route (and a number of others)! It describes the first 4 pitches, but omits to describe anything related to the easy but exposed ridge (another rope length) to get from the Dandle to the main face, or how to get off from there (head up and left to top out then descend left down steep grass until a grassy rake it visible on the left heading back into the face and to the base of the route).

RE stances, they are ok but from memory the one before the traverse isn’t massive (but is big enough). I’d run the first two pitches together (about 35m I think), arriving at the belay described. The belay above the traverse pitch is large and has some tat.

If you wanted to avoid the smaller ledge then it makes sense to run pitches 2 and 3 together, rather than the first two. Also where’s your sense of adventure tjhare? Why should guidebook’s give you info on descents or complete route descriptions? 

there's  room for 3 on all the belays (I tend to guide it using every stance) as others have said the one at the top of pitch 2 is the only slightly awkward one. You can ab off from the huge bilberry ledge at the top of pitch 3. 

But this does miss the amazing alpine finish! If you continue, take LH variation of pitch 4 (pretty far left, not in the recessed bay) for minimum veg and choss. Then you can get to the land bridge in one more easy but spectacular 40m pitch from the ridgetop (p5), and up the chossy gully above in another (p6). This leaves you with a long but pleasant wander off the back on gentle grass if you have brought your trainers and can navigate to gatesgarth pass ok.