In reply to Michael Hood:
> I suppose I'm biased in that I've got a long trad history from when abseiling was when you couldn't walk down. The wall/sport bred climber will probably have a bias the other way as they'll be more used to lowering off.
I don't think people should walk down just because of tradition, they should do it where it is a sensible choice in light of all the current considerations at a particular crag. Sometimes abseiling off is harder and actually takes longer, and most climbers I know don't really enjoy it that much, but in many places it is easier and quicker. This shouldn't be held against it as a reason for not doing it though unless there is danger of compromising climbers coming up.
In places like Chee Dale avoiding the crag-top vegetation has become increasingly important. It was always normal to walk down from the top of Plum Buttress after Sirplum (E1 5b) but there is now an adequate 45m abseil from the tree which is far preferable to walking down, not just because the nettle-covered slippy grass walk down was a pain, but because it means far less disturbance in an area where we have be warned about disturbing the flora. It would be better if it was more sustainable than the botch of slings and tatty old crabs that it currently is though.
Stoney has not got the same considerations as Chee Dale but I would still say that the two abseil descents mentioned are good things and worth having in place (one is a big tree so you can still use it although that isn't great for bark damage). It would be nice if we could agree this as a community and actually take some more sustainable action to facilitate these abseil points rather than having to rely on the ugly DIY versions that we currently have in many places. I noticed that the thread on Sirplum is a solid chain now since it is also the lower-off for the current version of Sloe Gin (7c). This strikes me as a good thing.
Alan
Post edited at 11:05