UKC

Socket Slabs (S)

Just a quick question. Does anyone have the date this was first climbed possibly from a newish guide book. Mine doesnt have this route in it and we did it today sort of off the cuff. Thought I had a good idea of where it went but want to check the SMC description. The last section had no gear and I ran out of rope (50m) and had to belay without gear on a turf ledge. 

1996, Graham Little, Kev Howett

(As one of the original perpetrators of Mystic, I seem to remember very little, if any, gear, on the upper stretches of that too. We were camping in lower Glen Rosa, had done various things on Cir Mhor and South Slabs, then woke up to a pea-souper. Felt our way over to Glen Sannox, hence the route name.)

Interesting. I've long had an urge to climb Slapstick Wall in this vicinity. Have any of you gents done that route and would you recommend it? 

Cheers

Thank you so much for this. Love to Hear Arran climbing history as been my main place since a schoolboy in the early 80s. On and off through the years but now my eldest son has taken an interest I'm back. 

I had actually gone to climb "Mystic" with my son as it was one for some reason I had missed in the past. The initial pitch looked like the twin cracks were barely visible for turf and heather. The upper section description didn't make sense to me either. The final upper wall states a 41m pitch but it's quite a short wall before the top. 

I believe we did the lower section of S slabs and upper section of Mystic. The slabs were in tip top condition with virtually no seepage. A rare condition!

Yes. Done 3 times now and still not done all the variations to date. It doesnt get quite same seepage as the rest of the slabs. The J pitch shelf I have read some think VS 4b due to lack of protection. I thought quite reasonable as some Arran slabs are very run out. 

Thanks so much, sounds great and I'm overdue a return to the island. Have loved Arran climbing since my first proper climb, Pagoda Ridge, was there with a few bits of gear and no clue all those years ago.  

Cheers,

I remember Slapstick Wall being a rather good route. Belays were OK IIRC and the runouts acceptable for the style / grade.