UKC

Any suggestions would be great to guide our research and decision this week!
We’ve considered shady crags in Costa Blanca and southern France but even in the shade these may be too warm.

Looking for easy (4-6b and a few up to 7a) single pitch.

Cheers

Neil

Meant too add that short ish approaches would be ideal

Cheers

Your suggestions look a little suicidal. Try to find places at least 1500, better 2000m above sea level. Areas around and above Briancon might fit the bill, as do some Swiss, Austrian and Dolomites crags.

The vast majority of 4s and 5s are quite slabby and near midsummer, with the sun in southern Europe high overhead, will get sun much of the day even if they face northish. I'm in the middle of bolting a new Ariège sector full of 5s and 6s that genuinely will get plenty of shade, but this is the exception rather than the rule. There are other crags with easy routes that get shade at various times of the day, but most of the easy sectors are much better in cooler months. As soon as you get into the 6s there opens up a great many more sectors that are climbable in summer, but 4s will always be a challenge.

If you really find warm conditions difficult you'll need either to be quite far north or quite high altitude, and even then you'll probably be seeking shade much of the summer.

Frankenjura in Germany; 10 degrees cooler than France or Spain, great food and campsites, and 10,000+ routes to choose from.

One possibility is the granite of Cavallers in the Pyrenees of northern Catalonia.

Bouldering, single, multipitch and mountain routes. Starts about 1600 m in altitude.

Access via Toulouse or Barcelona airport. Hire car essential. Could still be warm.

Southern Norway - Drammen area and/or Southern Sweden - Bohuslen,

Chris

There's some in the vicinity of Cortina in the Dolomites - Cinque Terri etc. There's a guidebook for the area - 'Arrampicata cortina d'amprezzo' or similar title. If the weather's bad up there you can always drive down to Arco? Arco is too hot after lunchtime, but you will be OK if you start at 08:30. Not many 4s though, and the ones we found were often polished.

I once climbed in Provence in the first week of September, on the basis that September is autumn and therefor okay, rather than a week after August which is summer and therefore definitely not okay. Anyhow it was very hot and uncomfortable.

Have you considered Asturias in northern Spain? I’ve only been in May but it was very pleasant, I suspect some crags would be fine in summer but I’m not 100% sure. 

As someone has already mentioned Briancon is becoming a very popular summer venue. Its high up and with quite a few shady crags. 

Last summer was very hot year, it was ok for climbing in the shade, most of the easier venues are not shady. Lots of people still climbing on them, but if you don't like heat then you may need a breeze and or cloudy day. I am hoping this years is a little cooler.

I've been to Costa Verde mid August and it was for sure cool enough to climb.

Alps, 2000m plus, early starts and evening cragging. Mad dogs and Englishman etc...

Consider this and next year are likely to see record temps, which means 40+c, even camping could be tough, never mind physical activity. 

That's where I chuckled at the guy who suggested the Frankenjura, it managed over 40°C in Kitzingen (which is about 70km away) on the 22nd July 2019. I've always stopped climbing activity at 40° anyway but work the limit was around 65° as that's the maximum allowed in an engine room.

Portland?

always shade depending time of day/side of isle. most of crags have very short walks. Dws if it’s scorching.

Only half joking! 

My plan is Bavella on Corsica. Road side on the Col at 1200m. Loads of beautiful rough grey granite and high enough on the Island to be cooler. I got no intention of being there mid day unless a cool day though. Campsite booked is an air conditioned self catering cabin beside the beach. 

Ailefroide is perfect at that time of year. Massively recommended especially in your grade range. Miles of perfect slabs, cracks and faces at altitude where you can climb in the sun. Enjoy! 

Ceuse. Cascade in the morning, lunch under Biographie, then Demi Lune in the afternoon.  

In the haute Durance The conglomerate near Guillestre/mont dauphin gets shade though it can be crowded.The sector there called 'Simoust' is really good for routes 5+ to 7b.Rue de masques and mont dauphin all good as well.Combine this with ailfroide and anywhere else that gets shade in the area and you have at least 4 weeks climbing surrounded by some of the best scenery around.

Just back from work and I’ve really enjoyed reading everyone’s suggestions and you have all helped me to not spend money getting burnt and dehydrated! A genuine thank you.

I think I sort of knew it was mostly too hot but a combination of factors led to booking holiday in July and trying to go sport climbing when really we should be looking at alternatives.

We’ve been looking at the Asturias and trying to untangle accommodation and flight prices as one option. Although it still seems a bit on the warm side.

We’ll have a look at Norway and Germany.

And Portland is increasingly appealing.

Maybe I’ll get the caving stuff out of the loft and stay in proper shade for the week

Thank you all

Waterfall Boven, South Africa. (actually feel a bit guilty recommending a long haul for a climbing holiday but hey, it sounds good!) 

If you are up for multipitch gentle sport, and maybe are even prepared to use some lifts, then the Aiguilles Rouges in Chamonix are very pleasant. Warm and sunny but not too hot either.

Portland in the summer is way too hot in so try the Gower 

I mean it can be, but so can Scotland! There's plenty of days it's good conditions too.

Scotland has some surprisingly good sports climbing in your grade range and is unlikely to be too hot. Of course there are the midges to consider, but these are much less of a problem on the East side, for example Moy and The Mound.