Is there a middle ground between onsighting and redpointing?
I’m a boulderer who very infrequently has a dabble at sport climbing. Twice last year and twice, so far, this year.
When bouldering, I can usually see all of the holds. If I’m sport climbing I’m struggling to read the route in advance and therefore climbing many grades below what I’d be capable of - in theory.
I seem to be able to onsight 6a/ 6a+ but struggle to onsight 6b, so far. My fingers are way stronger than that but I have poor power endurance.
Typically, I climb the bit I can see, maybe get the second quickdraw in, rest (not on the rope), spend ages feeling around and planning the next section, try something, climb down, rest again, repeat, get the next quickdraw in and so on, to the chains.
This is obviously really inefficient. I don’t know where I’m going or where the holds are. I suspect some of this is the nature of limestone that I’ve been climbing on but it feels like I could be doing something better.
Without going on full repointing, is this just how onsighting is? Is there a middle ground? Is this the same for everyone else?
Post edited at 12:42