UKC

/ Stone Farm Rigging

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Pqhf5kd on 05 Jul 2018

I'm heading over to Stone Farm in a couple of weeks and want to setup topropes on some of the easy, popular climbs:

  • Curling Crack
  • Stone Farm Crack
  • Undercut Wall
  • Pine Crack

I've read the BMC Sandstone CoP which suggests there are bolts for the anchors, is that true of the above climbs? 

cpowell - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

There are bolts above some but not all routes - sometimes you need to use a tree or its root system.

A couple of 240 slings should be enough for most situations

Cheers

deacondeacon - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

Better to use static rope rather than slings to make sure you can get the top rope in just the right place take a rope protector too.  

Pqhf5kd on 05 Jul 2018

Cheers for the replys so far, BMC suggest 5m of static, any advise on these particular routes?

I forgot to add, is it easy to walk up to the top?

deacondeacon - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

It's really easy to get to the top of most routes (except the isolated boulder which is about vdiff). 5m of static will be plenty  

Robin Mazinke - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

Curling Crack has a tree and exposed roots at its top, Undercut Wall has a bolt (which can also be used for the wall/arete to the right).  Stone Farm Crack and Pine Crack rely, to some extent, on old decaying tree stumps.  Stone Farm Crack can be set up using the old stump with a back-up to a bolt, I think 5m of static will do for this.  Pine Crack is harder to set-up (and actually not as good a route).  You will have to make up your own mind on the stumps - for the moment I'd still use them. Until they finally go there isn't any suitable rock to put a bolt in (and may not be even when they have gone). Do not take a rope back across the adjacent bridleway. Close by Garden Wall Crack and Remote are easy to set up off of a tree.  As deacondeacon states these are all easy to walk to the top of.

deacondeacon - on 05 Jul 2018
In reply to Robin Mazinke:

Now that's a definitive answer lol  

Pqhf5kd on 08 Jul 2018
In reply to Robin Mazinke:

Cheers for that!

 

Anyone know if I'm likely to get away with sleeping my van around that area? I'm having trouble working out where we're even meant to park anyway.

Trangia on 08 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

Parking is very restricted near the Rocks. There are just a handful of spaces on the south side of the tiny lane running down from the junction with the East Grinstead - Tyes Cross Road a few yards down and diagonally opposite from the bridleway which runs to the rocks, but its uneven and lumpy so you may not get level ground. It gets full very early in the day. It's also on a bend in a steep hill. If you are overnight parking don't take more than one space or you won't be popular when others arrive the next day! 

If you continue down this tiny lane towards the reservoir there is a small car park near the bottom on the left, but I've no idea if overnight parking is permitted. - I have a suspicion that it's not!

There is also some very limited parking off the lane which runs along the south side of Weir Wood Reservoir, but again I'm not certain if overnight parking is permitted. Basically the area in general comprises narrow winding lanes, and parking isn't easy to find.

Dr Toph on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

If you continue up the hill past stone farm (away from the reservoir) there is a single flat space big enough for a van on the left. You can walk out the back past the concrete block and through the fields to get to the crag if you want. Just make sure you are completely off the road, its quite tight. 

I think the parking at the bottom of the tiny lane belongs to the canoe club, but there were no signs saying don't park overnight. Reckon it would be fine, and quiet.

The carpark directly next to the lake, with the bird hide is very nice (save the local yout doing donuts at 1am) but if you are still there when the warden comes in the morning around 8am, you will get a right earful. Its council owned so they can enforce it. 

Javan - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Pqhf5kd:

Whilst we're on a Stone Farm line of enquiry, does anyone have any advice for approaching Stone Farm East or Standen Rocks? There's a rough location for both on the UKC crag map, but no pointers on how to actually get there, and no sign of them on satellite images...

Robin Mazinke - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Javan:

They probably won't make satellite views as they're both well in the trees, particularly Stone Farm East which is well covered with yews, both above and forming a curtain in front of some of the crag. Standen is visible from in front.  The grid refs (and descriptions) in the 2008 CC guide should get you there.  If you put TQ388351 (Standen) or TQ384349 (SF East) into Streetmap  (.co.uk) they're close enough.  For both park in the small car park at the end of Admiral's Bridge Lane (the guide does mention 'disabled drivers only' but any signage disappeared a long time ago), head roughly NE for Standen and NW for SF East.

In reply to Pqhf5kd:

Might be ok to overnight in this car park, but not sure how often local yoof visit.  Unfortunately can't think of anywhere close that's quiet and ok to stay.  On the A22 and A264 there's a number of laybys that lorry drivers seem to use so I guess they'll be ok if not particularly quiet.

Javan - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Robin Mazinke:

Brilliant, cheers Robin!


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