UKC

Hi I've been unable to climb for over a year and a half due to pain in both calves. Physio has not helped. Saw a new physio today who suggested we rule out some possible causes before referring for a scan. He thinks one cause could be the lack of support in climbing shoes. So I've to try easy routes in my approach shosh once pain recedes. Has anyone experienced something similar? Can you recommend more supportive climbing shoes? In recent years i have been wearing all round beginner red chills half a size bigger than my normal shoes. Thanks

I would recommend less support not more, because the more support you provide the less work your muscles are doing which is going to lead to them wasting away and loosing mobility.

Disagree with the above comment. If theyre getting over stressed already wearing soft shoes won't help! Plus climbing trad in stiffer shoes is just more fun. They will still strengthen a lot with stiffer shoes. I find my calves get especially pumped early in the season/ after not climbing for a while. I recently got some scarpa maestro's which are super stiff, and my calves barely get pumped... brilliant. Cant recommend the shoe enough... they feel like cheating! Really stiff but without on compromise on sensitivity

Edit: they also do a high ankle version of the maestro (similar to tc pro's) which might provide even more support? Although i think the high ankle is mainly to protect your ankle skin

You generally get more support from a 'Board Lasted' shoe, like the old Red Chilli Sausalitos. I own a pair of those. They are my wear all day shoes.

I don't know who make board lasted shoes currently.

Are we talking indoors or outside?  Slabs or something steeper?  What happens if you go for a run?  Do you take any other form of exercise?  Have you tried, for example, doing heel raises with your toes on a book, in bare feet?  What happens if you climb the stairs with your heels well away from the steps?

It seems a bit premature to be talking about climbing shoes.

Screaming calves on long slab routes is par for the course.

Done all the exercises. Seen physio for over a year with no progress. Not been able to climb for 18 months due to pain. Now have pain even if I don't exercise. Currently trying to rule in/ out role of shoes before considering compartmentalized leg syndrome.

Pain all the time, even when not climbing?  Or just climbing? If the latter, what sort of climbing?

You ice climb in completely rigid boots that are further stiffened by the crampons attached. I've never had a problem having very large calf musid cles, but I have climbed with plenty of other people who have complained of getting painful calves after standing on front points for a long time. I'm not convinced that getting really rigid boots would help that much as you end up being very much on just your toes.

Go and find a pair of board laster hi top beginners shoes - don't get them too big or you won't be able to get them right enough to support you?  

What do you wear for walking? Is the problem feet or calves?

Have you seen a doctor, if so, what have they said?

Have you seen a specialist, if so, what did they say?

If neither of the above, why not?

Have you seen a podiatrist yet? 

My calf pain was due to poor foot mechanics. Sorted with insoles that I don't wear as often as I should. 

Hope you get it sorted

That sounds miserable

I had a similar issue with calf pain (but only one leg), which eventually turned out to be a Halgunds deformity.  The issue was caused by the location of the heel rand.  The solution (for me) was to wear 5.10 rogues for a year - they have very loose heels.  

Good luck!