UKC

Hi all, 

Been reading a while but first-time post - be gentle! Looking for recommendations for kid-friendly lines in Dorset, our 4yr old has really started to enjoy the climbing wall post-lockdown and had her first outdoor experience on the lower tier at Dancing Ledge at the weekend (ascent good, not so much a fan of descending!), are there any other crags in the area with suitably short reaches for sprogs? Bolted only please, I have zero trad experience so no immediate intentions to hang her off anything that I have to place!

Thanks

Chris

There aren't many child friendly venues that come to (my) mind, first would be the lower tier of Dancing Ledges. The approach is easy enough but you'll need to keep a tight grip as there are plenty of vertical drops. The routes are all top ropeable, holes have been drilled at the top rather than the usual stakes or lower offs. You can thread slings and top rope from below like you would at the climbing wall.  

The other place known for child friendly climbing is Godnor on Portland. However these routes are steep and I think they need an adult to climb/lower off the anchors at the top which might give logistical problems if you don't have a climbing partner with you.  The Cuttings has some easier routes but again the anchors need to be clipped from below.

And there is a big slab fallen block somewhere on Portland down by the sea but I haven't been there myself. 

Eager to hear of any other venues (my son is 10) that others can recommend.

Hedbury has some really easy routes bolted with children in mind

Very Ordinary Route (2a)

seacombe gets a write up 'ideal choice for a hard pressed climber with a family'

and the routes below hedbury quarry from Judy to Dynamic uno appear to be reachable by a diff decent route. Perhaps something for the future.

Thanks. Agreed Dancing Ledge is ideal except for the walk in and out, which on little legs can take longer than the girl wants to actually climb for once we get there! 

Will recce Godnor and the Cuttings next time we're in Portland...climb with the wife so not a problem setting top-ropes, the girl climbs verticals at the wall so steep shouldn't be an issue so long as she can reach positive holds. Does anyone have any experience taking small kids there? The girl is only just over 1m so reach is the issue! Same question for Seacombe...?

Thanks Scott, we were there the other day but the grade 1 and 2 were clogged by groups so couldn't get close to properly assess, are the holds close enough for a short-arse (4yr old, 1m-ish tall)? Although has the same issue as Dancing Ledge, ideal venue but a bit of a walk for 1-2hrs climbing before she gets bored! Plus those two routes are pretty near the edge so extra caution needed with seemingly suicidal sprog!

The Bonsai area at The Cuttings has some really short really easy stuff,  though I seem to remember them being not very nice though. 

Not far to walk from the car to take a look though....

The Lost Valley on Portland also has some nice easy routes, a few that aren't in the Dorset rockfax but are easily decipherable in UKC.

Matt

Hi bud, were you there on sunday? if so i believe i briefly spoke to you as i was setting up anchors on the lower tier for my friends who arent experienced enough for the main cliffs then my buddy gave me a belay later on up in the main quarry. 

As others have said the lower tier is great as is hedbury but the latter can become busy. The issue you may also find is the kind of climbs you're looking for could well be really polished whereas it seemed the rock on the lower tier was much more friendly and actually had friction on it. 

Failing other routes have you considered getting a boulder pad and having a look at some of the easier boulders in the area? Portland bill/lighthouse area has a lot of easy short problems, easy access and are good flat landing areas. 

Thanks, will take a look next week...

Thanks Matt, yep know there are a couple of 3s there that aren't in the book (and have climbed them recently but without a thought for the child as I didn't really think she'd be ready for real rock this year) - will have to take another look.

Yes down there Sunday with friends and 3 kids - it's definitely a great place to take them and closer to us than Portland, I was just hoping for something without the mild hill to get there! Suspect you spoke to our fearless leader Chris (or my memory is really bad! - he was the one with lots of hair in a hat, I was the shiney bald dome). Took over an hour and a lot of bribing with the promise of crisps at the pub to get them back up to the car...fine for a day out, not so much to just pop out for a couple of hours in the evening. Sounds like it's the best bet though, just have to stick to the wall when we're short on time/daylight.

I remember years ago walking back from Dancing Ledge with my mate's young son sat on top of my full rucksack - he had his slightly older daughter sat on top of his!

Hi, you will need some trad experience to visit Seacombe - the families comment is in the guide (i would think) because it is a nice place for families to hang out rather than taking small children to climb.  It is less traveled than other areas and so you could come across some loose holds.

If you can get to Portland, then Sharbutts Quarry could work well for you along with the other areas already mentioned

Having had the pleasure of many a decent climb with load - I'm sure that was a fun walk-out Thankfully it's a short one!

Thanks Gareth, noted on Seacombe and will check out Sharbutts.