UKC

Taming the Camel

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 dinodinosaur 05 May 2023

The Camel (E5 6a) is a route I'm interested in in the future. 

Has anyone got any ideas for training routes to build up to it? 

I'm thinking king bee crack, emulator, the strand and bran flake but E3 and above I'm a bit lost for routes. Maybe winking crack would be a good one.

 Climber_Bill 06 May 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Strike could be a good one. Strenuous and pumpy, but safe, for the grade.

Allow you to focus on the climbing and putting in gear and not be too gripped.

CB.

 dan gibson 06 May 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Actually get on some proper Main Cliff routes on that section on the crag.

Needle, Syringe, Graduation Ceremony,  Big Groove.

A lot of people find the style on The Camel hard. A bit of wide crack, flared wide cracks experience will be useful.

In reply to dinodinosaur:

First and foremost, this thread has absolutely made my day, as it's great to see someone not only interested in Main Cliff, but interested in The Camel (it's a special route)!!

In many ways there's little point in me responding, as Dan's comments are spot on. However, given how much I love Main Cliff I'd feel like I was missing out if I didn't say something.

The Camel definitely throws you into the deep end of Main Cliff's quirky climbing style, with a whole lot of unconventional/awkward jamming, and the only thing that can prepare you for that is more Main Cliff. At the time I did The Camel I was doing lots there, so felt pretty attuned to its style, and that really helped. Basically get adept as you can at wide pinches, weird moves and unconventional jams. Lovely though King Bee Crack, The Strand and Bran Flake are - they're not going to prepare you for that...

The various routes Dan has suggested they'd put you in a very good place, then once you've done The Camel you'll be in ready to tackle the other Main Cliff E5s - some of which are probably a whole lot easier than The Camel.

Good luck (and have fun)!

 Paul Sagar 09 May 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Erm don't we have a date with Positron?

In reply to Paul Sagar:

> Erm don't we have a date with Positron?

...and The Camel, apparently 😅

OP dinodinosaur 11 May 2023
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Only if you're leading a pitch #I'mnotaguide 

1
OP dinodinosaur 11 May 2023
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

It wouldn't be a main cliff thread without your input and was wondering if you'd show up haha. 

I'm not sure why but something about an honest well protected physical battle appeals to me right now, I don't feel quite ready to tackle the camel yet but seeing as there's loads to do on main cliff I can build up to it.

 Paul Sagar 11 May 2023
In reply to dinodinosaur:

Yes I can do the last pitch (which I have done before)


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