/ tendon injury? I think...

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diddler - on 22 Nov 2012

So all advice would be appreciated on this matter as its the first time I have had a pain like this.

I was Bouldering, not properly warmed up, and did a big move from a two finger pocket (using my middle and ring finger). I felt something in my forearm so stopped. I could just about climb after, but only did for another 5 mins.

When I investigated further I found that I couldn't put any pressure on my ring finger without my forearm hurting. Other fingers seem fine so I guess its just that tendon.

But how have people dealt with this before?, how long does it take to heal?, Is there anything I can do to help the healing?.

archiecb - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to diddler:

Flexor tendon strain (possibly)
Test: Place hand face up on table and hold down finger, try to flex.
Time: Faster than a pulley injury, but maybe 2 months till it is back to strength.
Cure: No more climbing till it is much better, ice it regularly with water. The worst thing you can do now is make it worse. Accept your fate and deal with it.

Expertise: 3 of these injuries (or something that sounds similar)
Lee Sutcliffe - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to diddler:
Sounds very similar to what I did in the summer, it took almost two months before I could use it again properly, it still doesn't feel quite 100% four months on.
All I can say is rest, if you must climb do easier non overhanging routes/problems
mic_b - on 23 Nov 2012
In reply to diddler:
You might be lucky I've picked up this injury a couple of times and its healed fast one week off and then one week being carefull and I was back to full strength. Good luck!
diddler - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to diddler:

Hey folks,

Thanks for the advice, I will rest it and Ice it, and try to immobilize it as much as I can in normal day to day life. Hopefully it is minor or I will be pulling my hair out in 2 weeks.

A good opportunity to train one handed I guess.

Cheers again.
KristopherHall - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to diddler:

check this article its full of usefull info
Ciro - on 24 Nov 2012
In reply to archiecb:

I had a similar injury on my ring finger flexor tendon from pulling on a shallow two finger pocket a few years back, but took much longer to heal. Was back climbing after six weeks or so but had to avoid certain holds (unsurprisingly two finger pockets on the middle two was a no-no) for probably more than a year.

So long as I warmed up really carefully and let go immediately any hold felt painful, I seemed to be able to keep climbing and training OK though.

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