/ That one day

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Mike505 on 14 Jul 2017
Come on let's hear it, the day you got on a route that was either a few grades harder than your best onsight and you fought to the top or the time when everything finally fell into place (partners conditions etc...) for you're dream route.

Nothing too special here but when HVS/E1 was my grade (had a bit of experience on E2) a friend pointed out a route to me that we both thought looked like a good HVS. After heading over to it we took a look at the guidebook and realised it was in fact Black Hawk Bastion weighing in at E3 5c. After inspecting the gear from the ground and the exchange of an anxious glance I thought what the hell, geared up and shot up the corner. Spent an hour trying to suss the step across left. When I finally latched the hanging arĂȘte/nose with my left hand my foot popped and I managed grasp the nose with my right hand and hold the fall before laybacking to glory and a quivering rest well above my gear (two size 5 nuts in the top of the corner before the traverse) where I found a good meaty break for a size 4 dragon.
Fredt on 14 Jul 2017
In reply to Mike505:

When I was a mere beginner at 17, I was managing to lead routes of around severe, maybe the occasional dogged VS.

One Wednesday evening, I tagged along with my uncle, an experienced climber, and three of his mates, who were ticking off HVS's everywhere. I seconded most things, usually with an over tight rope, but was in awe of the tigers who were cruising HVS.

Last climb of the day was traditionally the hardest, so they chose Left Unconquerable. Best climber fell off, next one fell off, and so on. They gave up, but there was the problem of retrieving the runner at the crux. I nervously volunteered to go and get it, and easily climbed to the crux. I fancied having a go, and though it was nearly dark, I made the move and after that its just jugs to the top. The feeling was indescribable, and the icing on the cake was that one of the tigers had to be seconded up to retrieve the gear.
An hour later it was drinks on me in the Scotman's.

Mike505 on 14 Jul 2017
In reply to Fredt:

What a route!! And what feeling! I would love to experience something like that.
Mick Ward - on 14 Jul 2017
In reply to Mike505:

Agree - brilliant effort.


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