/ That was close - well done to the belayer

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gallam1 17 May 2019
Michael Hood 17 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

Are you sure that's the DM and not a parody of the DM

So full of crap misstatements it's actually hilarious. I never realised Nesscliff had a summit. And I suspect that JM didn't actually say the words attributed to him in the quotes.

Seriously, presumably the top gear was really poor and they'd decided to do a very dynamic belay if he came off.

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Robert Durran 17 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Seriously, presumably the top gear was really poor and they'd decided to do a very dynamic belay if he came off.

Yes, the top gear clearly wasn't up to much, but why do you conclude that about the belaying?

Post edited at 07:48
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gallam1 17 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

Nick Dixon on the same project:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NLFikB0J2o

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ericinbristol 17 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

a top rope that tight when I was working something would bug me

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Michael Hood 17 May 2019
In reply to Robert Durran:

Because why else would he end up so far below the gear without it ripping. He was only just above it.

Of course it may have been rubbish belaying, but I was assuming that someone as experienced as JM on a new route would have an experienced belayer.

If that's not the case then it's a shame the video doesn't carry on to show how happy JM was with the belaying

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Ron Rees Davies 17 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

The two sky hooks level with him both fail. The gear that holds is a long way below. 

He was back on the route with the same belayer (but a new helmet) an hour and a half later. 

Better video:

https://www.facebook.com/dmmclimbing/videos/2306874796191937/

And from ground level:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eNkM9VwZXQ

Post edited at 14:40
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springfall2008 17 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

I'm glad he used "strong climbing gear" and not the normal weak stuff others use ;)

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Luke90 17 May 2019
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Do you know what happened to the helmet? It seems to just fall off his head when, as far as I can see from the video, there's no real impact on it? Did he just have the chin strap too loose? Or was there a big impact that isn't clear from the angle of the video?

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Ron Rees Davies 17 May 2019
In reply to Luke90:

I don't know. From the ground-level view it looks like it may get caught by the rope as it comes tight. 

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gallam1 17 May 2019
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Pause this one 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eNkM9VwZXQ

at 23 secs and you can see that the helmet is already off.  It looks like it was flicked off by the belayer's rope, which is something that never even occurred to me could happen.

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timparkin 17 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

Ouch - hope it didn't run across his ear before it took the helmet off!

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MischaHY 17 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

I think the belay was dynamic whether Liz wanted it to be or not! 

Caff said he reckons proper E10 and at c.a. 8c with that kind of fall potential I'm inclined to agree. 

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Robert Durran 17 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> Because why else would he end up so far below the gear without it ripping. He was only just above it.

It did rip!

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OneBeardedWalker 17 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

I enjoyed the amount of times they used the phrase 'safety equipment'. 

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teh_mark 18 May 2019
In reply to OneBeardedWalker:

The juxtaposition of skyhook and 'safety equipment' is interesting; if I were at the point of placing skyhooks for trad gear I probably wouldn't feel very safe at all.

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88Dan 19 May 2019
In reply to springfall2008:

> I'm glad he used "strong climbing gear" and not the normal weak stuff others use ;)


Must have been a Beal rope

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TheHorroffice 19 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

Love this comment;

’’Of all the things you could choose to do with your time, putting your life in danger on a vertical rock face has to be one of the most perverse. I can see there is some sort of thrill, but it's like the thrill old Tory MPs get from paying young girls to thrash them on the buttocks. They know they're lives are over if they're found out.”

consider me well and truly busted!

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Michael Hood 22 May 2019
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks for the much clearer videos. If I'd seen it that clearly on the DM version (that the top gear had ripped) then my comments would have been different.

By the way, I wasn't criticizing the belaying at all.

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PaulJepson 28 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

Looks like Mr McClure got it? Sad for Caff but looks solid. E10! Hardest route there if it is.

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MonkeyPuzzle 28 May 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

> And I suspect that JM didn't actually say the words attributed to him in the quotes.

Having seen Caff's style in the comments here I'd be astounded if he'd said that as quoted!

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Ciro 28 May 2019
In reply to gallam1:

I like that the DM quoted the reasons behind his intended route name, without blinking.

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BrendanO 29 May 2019
In reply to TheHorroffice:

> Love this comment;

> ’’Of all the things you could choose to do with your time, putting your life in danger on a vertical rock face has to be one of the most perverse. I can see there is some sort of thrill, but it's like the thrill old Tory MPs get from paying young girls to thrash them on the buttocks. They know they're lives are over if they're found out.”

> consider me well and truly busted!

There's about 5 new route names in the above paragraph!!

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