UKC

Has anyone got beta for the moves through the roof/bulge above the Bulgette belay (the bit that's normally wet). Someon e had speculated that something has come off here, I've never trieded the move so don't know. From what I can see the only holds are big undercuts near the back of the roof, then a crimp which could be used with LH to reach vertical slot in the corner of groove. Should there be another good hold further left between the height of he undercuts and the slot?

Probably ten years old but if you want beta .....

Let them Eat Jellybeans  (aka The Bulge)
==========================

1. Climb the horrible groove to the big roof

2. Find a descent resting position

3. Start with both hands on the large undercuts, the right hand one has a small lip at the bottomand something for the thumb
   to wrap arround.

4. Build the feet on the back wall and stretch overhead with the LH for a good broken crimp in the roof.

5. Bridge wide (and behind the body) with the RF for a small but positive diagonal foot hold (mark)

6. Move the RH to the obvious vertical slot in the base of the groove (there is a pinch for the thumb as you get higher).

7. Bring the LF onto the right wall and walk both feet to the right using a series of small edges.

8. Move the LH up and accross to a shallow pocket (sort of split crimp near the front edge) and move the RF up to the highest scoopy
   slightly blackened hold (not very defined) Sort of drop the LF off to allow next move.

9. Move the RH to another shallow pocket (slightly grunty - precarious ). This pocket
   has a three finger crimp at the right hand side and a THUMB SPRAG at the left hand side.

10. When in balance on these two pockets move the LH back left to a large square cut flat hold and build
    the feet on the right wall. This will allow the Rh to move to the next vertical pocket in the groove (layaway).

11. Move the feet right along the break line (RF moves to a small edge past the best bit of the break)  LH moves to the undercut
    pocket at the top of the groove.

12. Stretch up high for a poor pinch with the RH, and bridge back left to the lower pocket,now turn the left hand so it is still
    undercutting the pocket but now with the palm of the hand facing upwards.

13. Move the RF to a small blackened hold abobe the break and bridge the LF higher up the left wall to a sort of crozzly crimp,
    this should give sufficient height to move the RH from the pinch to a large positive layaway with thumb sprag/pinch. (experiment
    with heel hook rest)

14. Build both feet quite high and stand / extend with the Lh for a scoopy layaway pocket.


15. Straighten up and cross over with the RH for a small pinch fin at the top of the scoopy hold.


16. Move the LH up to the obvious large pocket.

16. NEED TO WORK THIS BIT - Move the RF out to a small blackened edge and the LF to an opposing small foothold and
    stretch over the bulge with the RH for small incut crimp (thumb sprag) move the LH up to a flatty level with the right.

17. Build the feet, crimp hard with the RH and stretch for the obvious pocket (hold this at the front RHS -slightly laying
    away)

18 . Move the RF to a small scoop just below the bulge, and move the LF to the large flat ledge just over the bulge. This
     allows the RH to cross over for the vulcan death grip pocket(VDGP) (drop the little finger, place the middle two fingers
     in the right hand pocket and the index finger in the momo pocket - fiddly!  sprag the thumb on a small bobble on the lip
     of the pocket beneath the index finger). Move the LH to a small slot just left of the VDGP and fiddle the RH index
     finger in properly !

19. Build the feet to span out Left for the big layaway (get at the front)  and walk the feet accross to the left. Clip !!
    Catch the intermediate in front of face with the Rh and wedge the RF(?) in the small corner and throw with the RH for the
    good finger hold over the bulge (stupidly pumpy!)

20. Match hands and Build feet, the use whatever comes to hand to get high enough to get the  feet over the final bulge and
    clip the belay. (a bit vague here but both brain and arms have gone into meltdown by now !!)

21. victory
 

Well, you did ask !

Not to be outdone:

Climb Bulgette to undercuts, get first [clip] of overhang, hands-off rest bridging (head bent forward into corner) then:

High wide bridge: RF on small ticked smear; RH to crimp next to slot crack; LH to crimp and bump LF on high rubbered edge; bump RH into slot crack ; extracate LF and step it through to thin flakey foothold on right wall, RF on smear; big LH move to good flatty; RF on pockety smear near groove, LF wide bridge / drop-knee to high nobble (lip of crimp?); RH to crimp side of "double pocket"; LF to line of smeary pockets, match RF, [clip]; get LF in big pocket high on LHS of groove (almost under arse) and drop-knee; cross LH to undercut next to RH; slap out RH to pinch; step LF through next to  RF; RF to small square smear and RF bridge back into pocket; RH to good flake sidepull; LF to small foothold above RF, then RF to even higher foothold out to RHS; [clip] and match LH; get high RF heel-hook on flat ledge; press LH on side of  scoop; LF on flake and cross RH over to undercut top rim of scoop; smear up and LH in slot under lip; smear up and match crimp rail over lip - RH on best crimp. [clip - long extender] and shake out (RF on top of flake, LF on notch in crack, high and across to LHS of groove).

Crux: smear up on small edges; crank off RH and LH to pocket; RF on rubbered smeary footledge 8" down and left of RH crimp; rock onto RF and cross RH into bowling-ball hold; LF to polished, rubbered smear to LHS; drop-knee and LH to small crimpy sidepull (~18" below jug); step RF in to LHS of crimp rail and LF to polished rubbered smear further to LHS; drop-knee again and LH to jug; walk feet through along smears to LHS; [clip]; RF on furthest polished smear )high and to far LHS) and LF flagging; RH to pinch on lip and go again - punt RH to ticked slot over roof; step LF in to small brown tongue and RF twist into bowling-ball-hold; crank LH to slopey shelf; match RH to slopey shelf; move LF up to base of jug and LH to crozzly crack hold to left of first belay bolt; RF on higher hold (either heel next to slot or RF toe on pinch under lip) ; rock forward and get gaston to RHS of belay bolt; get stood on lip and gain finishing jug next to 2nd belay bolt (can undercut beneath gaston if in extremis)..

Good to see i'm not the only one

Thanks both, I was aware of moose's black book of beta but was unaware there were others. The good news is it doesn't sound as though anything has come off, the bad news is you both mention a wide bridge which is likely to prove fatal with my duff hips. Hopefully tonight I'll find out one way or another