In reply to TobyA:
I was stupidly optimistic this weekend. After a difficult week of work, with no climbing done, I was gagging for a good trip out. The weather forecast showed 30% chance of rain showers in Langdale, drying up around noon. I thought to myself: "by the time you get up to Gimmer, it'll be dryish, and you can climb something steady - Asterisk into C Route into Treasure looks good." Of course, it didn't work out that way. It was never going to work out that way.
When I arrived in Langdale at 10am with a friend everything was soaked and the wind was whipping little showers over us. We decided to make an ascent of Middlefell Buttress to give the crags a chance to dry up. How naive, given the dark sodden mass of cloud pouring down into the valley from Crinkle Crags.
Heading up Castration Crack in the wet was a bit more than I'd bargained for. Cock sure, I didn't read the guide book description - just thought: there's the way, looks fine, s'only a Diff. But, it's a couple of awkward and steep moves up to gain a deep polished crack bordering an overpolished slab - and worth a Severe for most people. The holds on the slab are far too small and worn to trust to cold wet fingers, meaning that I had to resort to an odd mixture of palming downwards and whaling up the crack. Where I thought I'd sail up, I found myself lacing the route. Half way up the rain started again, and by the time I'd built a belay I was soaked. My friend decided to try it in big boots, like a pro, but had to change to climbing shoes to make the first tricky moves... And arrived looking as wet and cold as me. We decided to walk off and go to the ODG to dry off.
Arriving there, we found a couple who'd come all the way from Leeds on public transport, trying hard not to look utterly disappointed by the rain pissing on their parade. Inside were another couple of teams and a friendly barman positively glowing with Schadenfreude. Chatting with him, he said we could leave our bags and lent us a scrambling book to peruse. Outside again, we met Helen Mort and Andrew Marshall; someone from BBC Radio was with them, holding a mic boom with what looked to be a very sad, soggy squirrel on the end.
Still the rain didn't stop, so we ended up scrambling up Browney Gill instead. What a lovely place! The scrambling was mostly boulder hopping, as we didn't fancy the tricky bits over the falls - we'd not come prepared with full waterproofs and I was in trainers that were soaking up water like sponges.
Ack, it wasn't Gimmer, that's for sure! But, it's good to get out! Or... at least, so we kept telling ourselves...
Post edited at 11:39