Wow! thanks to all for comments!
Writing is definitely a labor or love, you never know if people end up reading any of your work. Very encouraging to see these responses from UK climbing! (I just did an interview with Paul Pritchard on his new book, and I think he said it will appear on this site).
Sorry not to explain further--I am taking a short break from writing as I am teaching high school full-time this term, so just quickly posted the links. In a nutshell:
I am re-delving into the history of tools created for climbing--the premise being an innovation of tools generally precedes jumps in climbing standards. I originally wrote this article for Ascent Journal, 1999 with Steve Roper and Al Steck as my editors--back then all research was done in dusty libraries and language dictionaries. Now there is lots of source info out there (and also many internet 'myths'), so it is great to be able to really delve into the primary journals to uncover new historical tidbits relating to the state-of-the-art gear of each era (my engineering degree also helps to read "between the lines" in many cases).
I have not ever seen anything in depth on Tita Piaz in English, even though there are many books on him in German, Swiss, Italian, and French, so I really delved into more on his history in this series (at least one more part coming on Piaz's early "big wall" climbs). He really seems to me the epitome "proto-climber", more so than the other heroes more widely known from the early 1900's.
Cheers from Tasmania, John Middendorf
Other bits and bobs from this series (links at http://bigwallgear.com, please sign up!)
- In the Beginning: Subtle Means and Engines
- Pre-1492 climbing tools
- The Modern Era of Mountaineering (1786)
- American Trail Builders, 1800's
- The rise of iron for ascent
- Rope Technology in the 19th century
- Mizzi Langer -- first advertised rock climbing pitons (Mauerhaken)
- Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1a
- Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1b
- Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1c
- Climbing Pitons Early Evolution--part 1d
- Climbing Pitons Early Evolution-part 1e
- Tita Piaz-Alpinisto Acrobatico (Piaz PartA)
- Campanile Basso di Brenta
- Tita Piaz-Speed Climber and Rope Acrobat (Piaz PartB)
- Tita Piaz-Guide and Rigging Expert (Piaz PartC)
- Tools and Climbing Styles
Post edited at 01:52