In reply to skunky456:
> (In reply to needvert)
>
> Needvert, if you're gona say that everything i've written is wrong, you could at least explain why.
Well, I didn't say
that. I thought that page was sufficient explanation
> Why is a shunt a poorer choice? It is the least likely of all to damage the rope since it has no teeth.
Petzl feels strongly enough about the shunt being a poor choice for TR self belaying that they've amended their instructions for the shunt to not mention it. Furthermore, their publication on self-belaying explicitly tells one not to use the shunt.
They don't feel this way about some of their other devices, ergo, the designers and manufacturers of the device we're debating, who know a whole lot more about the subject then us, would seem to think the shunt isn't he best choice.
Personally I have a minitrax, microtrax, basic and ascensions. I like the basic best for self belaying, with a trax second best. The ascension is a bit too bulky. The basic, compared to the shunt, has a camming mechanism which is much more difficult to interfere with, is lighter, and though I haven't measured it I suspect it slides up the rope with less effort.
> I explained that it doesn't work without a chest harness, but with one it's held in a position where cross loading the biner or the shunt rotating into a bad position is impossible. There's really nothing that can go wrong if you do it right.
> As for your petzl article, look at the picture: As the guy climbs the biner is going to pull the ascender (whichever one you use) from above. If you fall, the biner is going to whip into a downwards position. But theres no guarantee it'll happen cleanly.
Taking the basic as an example, that's not a problem.
> When i took the 4m fall it was because the biner cross loaded and turned the shunt sideways.
The basic will grab when turned sides, or upside down, or in any other orientation.
> If you were using a toothed device then landing on it sideways could really f*ck your rope up.
It doesn't.
> This is why most people choose to back it up which turns the system into a faf.
Well, having a rope is faf. Most people choose to back it up though? So popular consensus is a backup is a worthwhile endeavour then?
> When its on your chest, the device is already in the position it'll end up in when you fall. I dont feel the need to back it up because i've done it dozens of times this way and seen how reliable it is.
Dozens? That's not really a huge sample.
> For the record, how exactly would you go about backing up your system? if you do it with the ascender clipped to your belay loop, where do u put the backup?
http://www.petzl.com/files/fckfiles/image/product-experience/self-belay/sol...
Heh, I didn't know that file was named solution-best until I pasted it.