UKC

Trad crag in Bangor, NW

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 James Beaumont 13 May 2017
Hi,

Out of interest i was wondering if anyone knew anything about the routes on the crag in Bangor (North Wales), situated above the Lidl car park and below the new student housing at the top of the hill.
I abbed down the wall last year (after a fight with some gorse bushes) and noticed a couple of rusty old pegs, and i have heard from others that there are actually routes established that haven't seen repeats in years.
The whole thing is horrendously chossy and dangerous so i doubt anyone would bother trying anything on it, but if anyone had any info then it would be a pretty interesting read.

Cheers
James
Yorik 13 May 2017
In reply to James Beaumont:

There's Gaskins grotto and Graveyard quarry on the hill above Lidl- both are in the crag directory on here.
In reply to Yorik:

Nah they're both bouldering venues just down the road
Yorik 14 May 2017
In reply to James Beaumont:

Is it directly below the student block in the trees?
In reply to Yorik:

Yeah that's the one, can just about see it from the road below
Mrbumbly 14 May 2017
In reply to James Beaumont:

Gaskins Grotto it seems has some very hard bouldering. I struggle up V2's currently
Kate Whillance 14 May 2017
In reply to Mrbumbly:

I wish could climb V2's! That venue sounds horrifically hard though
Yorik 15 May 2017
In reply to James Beaumont:

I'm pretty sure that the RAF Valley MRT used to practise rescue techniques back in the 80's there, couldn't say if they were responsible for the pegs, or if there are some old aid routes.
In reply to James Beaumont:

If it's the crag I think it is then this Welsh gentleman is responsible: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caradog_Jones - goes under the nickname of Crag. I have a feeling they may have been climbed roped solo as none of us were daft enough to go near the place. I don't think he bothers with this site much but you might find him lurking on TwitFace.

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