UKC

Video of Margo Hayes redpointing Biographie

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 stp 01 Jan 2018
This wasn't mentioned in the other posts of this historic ascent but there's a video of Margo doing the route here: vimeo.com/241629145 (12m).

Basic footage of the climb but I thought it was pretty good mostly. It's not been over edited and they haven't felt the need to add music like many filmmakers do or chop and change the perspective every few seconds.
In reply to stp:

Such a thuggish crux!
In reply to stp:
I really liked this video for its simplicity of showing the movements required to complete the climb. There were no distractions. No soft slow sequences of the walk in with low level shots of feet, bubbling streams, sunbursts, chalk dust in the sun and all that baggage that seems to have become a requirement of the climbing video. The simple soundtrack of encouragement was a more pleasant accompaniment than some of the music that seems to be have become essential in many films. Notably I didn't detect any product placement!
Judging by the presence of a photographer in the footage we can expect a fully rounded version of this accomplishment but it would take a really imaginative approach to better what I have just seen as a record of this landmark climb by a climber at the top of their game.
Post edited at 20:57
 zv 01 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:

What a great video, no slow motion, no commentary.

A lot of modern videos skip through "boring" bits such as resting, clipping, or easy ground and this in my opinion detracts a lot. Enjoyed this, thanks for posting.
 JLS 02 Jan 2018
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Reading the blurb at the bottom of the video suggests, that this video was taken by some random dude who just happened to be passing by and so pulled out his camera. I'm sure the "official" video will have all the features you dislike.

Yeah, I liked this "raw" version too. I'd have left in the couple of minutes shaking out that got chopped. I think it's important to see the pacing of the climb. I think sometimes more heavily edited video gives the impression that guys n gals blast up these things in two minutes flat. I thing it's good to see how much recovery time the climbers allow themselves between the cruxy sections.

In reply to JLS:
Yes something that struck me was the way the climb was broken down into sections of several moves with rests - that doesn't always come over in editted form.
 Robert Durran 02 Jan 2018
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

> Yes something that struck me was the way the climb was broken down into sections of several moves with rests.

It made it look deceptively doable! I agree that editing out (or even more annoyingly speeding up) shake outs spoils a video. The waiting for something to happen really does build the tension and expectation.
 Chris Harris 02 Jan 2018
In reply to JLS:

> Reading the blurb at the bottom of the video suggests, that this video was taken by some random dude who just happened to be passing by and so pulled out his camera. I'm sure the "official" video will have all the features you dislike.

No doubt all the boxes in this article will be ticked......

http://thestonemind.com/2013/06/04/how-to-make-a-climbing-movie/



 Si dH 02 Jan 2018
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

> Yes something that struck me was the way the climb was broken down into sections of several moves with rests - that doesn't always come over in editted form.

Obviously this depends on the route. There are a lot of hard routes where you do just keep climbing and it's all over in 3-4 minutes, as well as those where there are decent shake-outs.
jghedge 02 Jan 2018
In reply to JLS:
"this video was taken by some random dude who just happened to be passing by and so pulled out his camera." Correct. I don't even think the photographer on the rope knew she was going to be there that day, from the conversation I overheard at the base...also the quality of the raw 4k footage is much better than what you see on Vimeo, which suffers from motion tracking and stabilization we did, and the compression Vimeo uses...I did give the raw footage to Sender Films when I got back to the US on Oct 15 but they only used the audio of the cheering and encouragement, probably the slow pace of the actual redpoint didn't really work with their editing and pacing in Reel Rock...
Post edited at 16:16
 jon 02 Jan 2018
In reply to jghedge:

Nice vid, well done!
In reply to stp:
I notice that this has now come up as a UKC news topic.
OP stp 02 Jan 2018
In reply to Chris Harris:

The problem with the Stone Mind description is that it's a formula and if all climbing films were like that (and many are) it gets boring. I suppose for someone who's never made a climbing film it might be useful for the first film. But following a list of set pieces like that is rather uncreative too and I imagine many people will have their own ideas of how make something that will be far more original.
1
 Chris Harris 02 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:

> The problem with the Stone Mind description is that it's a formula and if all climbing films were like that (and many are) it gets boring.

Er, it's a piss take.....
pasbury 03 Jan 2018
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Agree, pretty impressive performance when each section drains the tank a bit more.
OP stp 03 Jan 2018
In reply to Chris Harris:

Ah, OK thought it could be but I only skim read it.

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