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Left Unconquerable - what a fantastic grit route. Closely followed by Right Unconquerable - which is like it's thuggish brother.
TimKnight - I'll bet yours is Right Unconquerable to (after that massive and spectacular whipper you look off it
TimKnight - I'll bet yours is Right Unconquerable to (after that massive and spectacular whipper you look off it
In reply to Ciderslider: Probably Spectre in the Pass; fell off right at the end of the second pitch and went a fair way.
Though thanks to a high runner, an attentive second and a tight rope, when I fell off on the first pitch of the HVS right of Diedre Sud, I went slightly upwards..
T.
Though thanks to a high runner, an attentive second and a tight rope, when I fell off on the first pitch of the HVS right of Diedre Sud, I went slightly upwards..
T.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Both of this year's whippers were off great routes: Big Greeny (slapping for the non-top of course) and Rigor Mortis (having failed to find the holds - damn that unchalked route).
Another good route I took a whipper off was Two Sunspots at Chee Tor - superb route, usually overgrown sadly.
Not whippers, but I've done the Dangle Of Shame on FBD and I called for a top-rope on Elegy (went the wrong way on the slab). I fell off the File, Bond Street and Hawks Nest Crack before I learnt how to jam.
I think one day I should take a proper whipper off Gogarth Main Cliff - now that would be falling off!
Both of this year's whippers were off great routes: Big Greeny (slapping for the non-top of course) and Rigor Mortis (having failed to find the holds - damn that unchalked route).
Another good route I took a whipper off was Two Sunspots at Chee Tor - superb route, usually overgrown sadly.
Not whippers, but I've done the Dangle Of Shame on FBD and I called for a top-rope on Elegy (went the wrong way on the slab). I fell off the File, Bond Street and Hawks Nest Crack before I learnt how to jam.
I think one day I should take a proper whipper off Gogarth Main Cliff - now that would be falling off!
In reply to Ciderslider: I've only ever done half-arsed slumps into the harness, so i'm definitely owed one. Fell off a route last weekend with a legjam in and ended up upside down for the first time which was fun though
In reply to Ciderslider: White wall direct, dovestones quarry. Was to be my first E1 after falling of another the day before. Was cruising it up to the horrid slopey rock-over topout. Took a massive whipper onto a good cam and had nothing left to do but to enjoy the airtime. Gutted.
In reply to Ciderslider: I peeled off reaching for the top of Indy 500 on Lundy. I'd been getting pumped and was pushing for the top rather than trying to hold on to place more gear. Fell about 30ft, partly due to the rope.stretch of about 130' of paid out rope...
In reply to Ciderslider:
Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
My brother took a really big one on Iago (E3 6a) on Heron Crag in the Lakes. He fell off the crux on the second pitch, and again ended up about two feet off the deck. I think the fall was about 70 feet.
Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
My brother took a really big one on Iago (E3 6a) on Heron Crag in the Lakes. He fell off the crux on the second pitch, and again ended up about two feet off the deck. I think the fall was about 70 feet.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Quite a few years ago now but two of the more memorable have been because they were winter routes - Stirling Bomber and Hoarmaster. Not really where you'd necessarily expect to fall off them either. Both times went a fair way!
Quite a few years ago now but two of the more memorable have been because they were winter routes - Stirling Bomber and Hoarmaster. Not really where you'd necessarily expect to fall off them either. Both times went a fair way!
In reply to Ciderslider:
Resurrection. Tried as hard as I could, gave all that I could have given, foot popped as I reached for the big flattie. Can't win them all - an awesome experience and its hard to feel disappointed when you know there's absolutely nothing you more you could have done.
Resurrection. Tried as hard as I could, gave all that I could have given, foot popped as I reached for the big flattie. Can't win them all - an awesome experience and its hard to feel disappointed when you know there's absolutely nothing you more you could have done.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Another one for Two Sunspots when I tried to create a new line that went straight up instead of traversing.
Another one for Two Sunspots when I tried to create a new line that went straight up instead of traversing.
In reply to Ciderslider: And here it is in glorious HD - the off is at 3.55 or there abouts
youtube.com/watch?v=HTlE-40QycI&
youtube.com/watch?v=HTlE-40QycI&
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I didn't know that. Was it the biggie from above the porthole? Tell us more.
Mine was Left wall - I was being cocky. I'd just had a weekend further down the valley and had miraculously managed to onsight 3 slate E5s and I struggled to get my head through the door of the Heights.
So next day off up the pass to cruise LW. Started up it, put one good runner in, got to the thin fingers bit, foot popped and I hit the ground on stretch.
E
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
>
> Right Wall.
>
> jcm
>
> Right Wall.
>
> jcm
I didn't know that. Was it the biggie from above the porthole? Tell us more.
Mine was Left wall - I was being cocky. I'd just had a weekend further down the valley and had miraculously managed to onsight 3 slate E5s and I struggled to get my head through the door of the Heights.
So next day off up the pass to cruise LW. Started up it, put one good runner in, got to the thin fingers bit, foot popped and I hit the ground on stretch.
E
Taken a few big ones off classic E2s
Left wall off the final mini jugs when about 1m from safety to below the tricky traverse rightwards, #3 nut, came back the next day and ticked it, just
Regent street lunging hopelessly for the sloping ledge on top crack
Pull my daisy off the last hard move a few meters above the trusty pipe, some very dodgy belaying and fell headfirst most of the route, very scary
Left wall off the final mini jugs when about 1m from safety to below the tricky traverse rightwards, #3 nut, came back the next day and ticked it, just
Regent street lunging hopelessly for the sloping ledge on top crack
Pull my daisy off the last hard move a few meters above the trusty pipe, some very dodgy belaying and fell headfirst most of the route, very scary
In reply to Ciderslider: Pearly Gates, from top to bottom after a block came off and gear popped. Nearly was exactly as it's name suggests!
In reply to Owen W-G: regent street from the sloping ledge at the top, that sounds familiar, I did the same 21 years ago when my ability to climb far outweighed my ability to place protection. Two wires in the upper crack which had both fallen out as I climbed passed them unknown to me, the tat in the back of the cave held and I just missed the ground! Unfortunately split my kneecap and head on the swing back into the crag. On the up side though 4 people were watching , 2 a and e nurses and 2 paramedics, swiftly followed by a trip to the hallamshire! Oh happy memories
In reply to Ciderslider:
best route i've fallen off would have to be queer st. couldn't be too gutted at missing the onsight as it was a proper give-it-everything-till-you-find-yourself-airborn moment. expected to come off but it was still a surprise when i did.
biggest fall - different question entirely, but what the hell - mather crack. had hands on the top and gear below my feet. was probably only about 15 feet but it felt like a long way
best route i've fallen off would have to be queer st. couldn't be too gutted at missing the onsight as it was a proper give-it-everything-till-you-find-yourself-airborn moment. expected to come off but it was still a surprise when i did.
biggest fall - different question entirely, but what the hell - mather crack. had hands on the top and gear below my feet. was probably only about 15 feet but it felt like a long way
In reply to Ciderslider:
Biggest and Best. Dreadnaught at Berry Head, about to clip the peg at then end of the traverse when a hold broke, pendulumed back into the corner to just above the belay. Nagasaki Groove; just about done it hands on Banzai Pipeline, slipped off dirty holds and ended up back below the crux.
Biggest and Best. Dreadnaught at Berry Head, about to clip the peg at then end of the traverse when a hold broke, pendulumed back into the corner to just above the belay. Nagasaki Groove; just about done it hands on Banzai Pipeline, slipped off dirty holds and ended up back below the crux.
In reply to Alex@home:
I haven't been to Cheer Tor this year, and now it'll be going further out of condition so it'll have to wait.
Such a shame that such a brilliant crag for pushing yourself and taking whippers is so neglected and filthy. The lush canopy above makes for a wonderful atmosphere in the Dale and is full of valuable flora and fauna, but it's a total pain in the arse as far as the climbing goes.
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
>
> best route i've fallen off would have to be queer st.
>
> best route i've fallen off would have to be queer st.
I haven't been to Cheer Tor this year, and now it'll be going further out of condition so it'll have to wait.
Such a shame that such a brilliant crag for pushing yourself and taking whippers is so neglected and filthy. The lush canopy above makes for a wonderful atmosphere in the Dale and is full of valuable flora and fauna, but it's a total pain in the arse as far as the climbing goes.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
couldn't agree more. every time i go there i'm struck by what a fantastic place it is - scenically and for quality of climbing despite having had to clean pretty much every route i've done there this year - and wonder why more people don't make the effort to go down there. but then maybe that's part of its charm in the same kind of way as slightly out of the way beaches that only a handful of people ever go to. if it was as polished as stoney i don't think i'd like it nearly as much as i do
couldn't agree more. every time i go there i'm struck by what a fantastic place it is - scenically and for quality of climbing despite having had to clean pretty much every route i've done there this year - and wonder why more people don't make the effort to go down there. but then maybe that's part of its charm in the same kind of way as slightly out of the way beaches that only a handful of people ever go to. if it was as polished as stoney i don't think i'd like it nearly as much as i do
In reply to Ciderslider:
Some hideous off width in a dolerite quarry in Scotland I fell out from, finished upside down facing my belayer. There's an old git that keeps coming to the walll that falls off everything as well, I think he should be banned but apparently he keeps them in business....
Some hideous off width in a dolerite quarry in Scotland I fell out from, finished upside down facing my belayer. There's an old git that keeps coming to the walll that falls off everything as well, I think he should be banned but apparently he keeps them in business....
In reply to Ciderslider:
My mate fell off the finishing moves of The Grim Jim on the Cromlech - a route which shares the stance with Cemetery Gates - ripping a piece or two of gear as he came. Unfortunately being green and foolish our belay was no more than a single sling over the wobbly flake, which without so much as a by your leave whipped off as I parted company with the flake on my way up to meet Clive on his way down. We came to rest just about level with each other, suspended by God knows what somewhere above.
It was his fall, but I think more memorable for me as the belay - and seemingly my life - unravelled before my eyes.
Clive got back and finished the pitch, much to his credit.
My mate fell off the finishing moves of The Grim Jim on the Cromlech - a route which shares the stance with Cemetery Gates - ripping a piece or two of gear as he came. Unfortunately being green and foolish our belay was no more than a single sling over the wobbly flake, which without so much as a by your leave whipped off as I parted company with the flake on my way up to meet Clive on his way down. We came to rest just about level with each other, suspended by God knows what somewhere above.
It was his fall, but I think more memorable for me as the belay - and seemingly my life - unravelled before my eyes.
Clive got back and finished the pitch, much to his credit.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Nothing very dramatic I'm afraid. I mostly climb grit and don't fall off very much. My best fall is my most recent one, falling from the top of the crux section of Chequers Crack, slamming into my belayer and stopping a couple of feet off the deck. Damn nearly did the thing on sight too, I got up to the good hold above the diffciulties and then messed up my feet. Shame but I'll be back for it one day.
Nothing very dramatic I'm afraid. I mostly climb grit and don't fall off very much. My best fall is my most recent one, falling from the top of the crux section of Chequers Crack, slamming into my belayer and stopping a couple of feet off the deck. Damn nearly did the thing on sight too, I got up to the good hold above the diffciulties and then messed up my feet. Shame but I'll be back for it one day.
In reply to Ciderslider: Scariest - I tried to aid solo Africa in El Chorro, a 200m crackline in a gorge, above an epic waterfall. Ripped an RP near the top of the first pitch, shit myself and slunk off defeated up the escape rope of shame...
Most fun - Sandy Hole at Pule Hill, the most bomber thread ever, better than any bolt, fell from the steep moves above maybe 10 times, brilliant fun.
(I still haven't topped out either of em!)
Most fun - Sandy Hole at Pule Hill, the most bomber thread ever, better than any bolt, fell from the steep moves above maybe 10 times, brilliant fun.
(I still haven't topped out either of em!)
Sirplum, decent length fall into space. Took me a bit of swinging to get back on. Just ran out of arms.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Never really fallen off anything leading (assuming bolts don't count). My biggest was slipping off the approach pitch to Black Grub by stepping on something nasty and nearly ending up in the river.
Most airtime would off North Crag Eliminate, seconding, and longest would be very nearly hitting the ground from the second pitch of Gormenghast, seconding.
Never really fallen off anything leading (assuming bolts don't count). My biggest was slipping off the approach pitch to Black Grub by stepping on something nasty and nearly ending up in the river.
Most airtime would off North Crag Eliminate, seconding, and longest would be very nearly hitting the ground from the second pitch of Gormenghast, seconding.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Demon Wall, Almscliff. Peeled off the slopey topout groping for the jug, with the rope behind my leg. Got flipped and ended up hanging next to my belayer in a weird homage to that bit in Spiderman.
Demon Wall, Almscliff. Peeled off the slopey topout groping for the jug, with the rope behind my leg. Got flipped and ended up hanging next to my belayer in a weird homage to that bit in Spiderman.
In reply to Owen W-G:
Ah, I was wondering/worrying about precisely that fall when I was in Wales last week (until it rained). So you don't hit the ironwork and disembowel yourself if you fall off above it?
>
> Pull my daisy off the last hard move a few meters above the trusty pipe, some very dodgy belaying and fell headfirst most of the route, very scary
> Pull my daisy off the last hard move a few meters above the trusty pipe, some very dodgy belaying and fell headfirst most of the route, very scary
Ah, I was wondering/worrying about precisely that fall when I was in Wales last week (until it rained). So you don't hit the ironwork and disembowel yourself if you fall off above it?
In reply to Ciderslider: Sticking with the Slate theme, Looning the tube. Attempted in old shoes with no edges, fell off the thin last move before the old miner's stake/chain and took a big pendulum fall onto the bolt halfway across the traverse, hitting the remains of the tube as I fell - fortunately nothing worse than a few bruises. Got back on, reached the same point and couldn't commit to the move, felt touch and go and I didn't know if I'd come away unscathed from a second encounter with the tube.
In reply to Ciderslider:
To answer your question though, definitely the best route I've fallen off must be Sterling Silver, Silvermine. Brilliant and varied climbing in a lovely setting (at least it was before the fire). I mantled and stood up in a break and just went for the handhold too casually to find it was surprisingly out of reach and getting rapidly further away. Bolted though so hardly a whipper.
To answer your question though, definitely the best route I've fallen off must be Sterling Silver, Silvermine. Brilliant and varied climbing in a lovely setting (at least it was before the fire). I mantled and stood up in a break and just went for the handhold too casually to find it was surprisingly out of reach and getting rapidly further away. Bolted though so hardly a whipper.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Haha, yes that would be the one. Still annoyed with myself for dropping the top-out! Seems that I made a few other peoples day's though
Haha, yes that would be the one. Still annoyed with myself for dropping the top-out! Seems that I made a few other peoples day's though
In reply to Ciderslider:
Central Groove at the Dewerstone. Hand slipped off a hold, next thing i remember was being upside down a few feet off the ground.
Central Groove at the Dewerstone. Hand slipped off a hold, next thing i remember was being upside down a few feet off the ground.
In reply to Ciderslider: 25 footer from the top of Ozzimosis in Rjukan.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Dug out this fall from a classic Roof at the Roaches
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150402504242952&set=vb.746377951...
Dug out this fall from a classic Roof at the Roaches
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150402504242952&set=vb.746377951...
In reply to Ciderslider:
Head first whipper after barn dooring off the final move of the crux sequence on Left Unconquerable and falling with my foot caught behind the runner.
Falling from the start of the roof section on The Sloth when my foot popped. Fell past the ledge, whacking my left wrist on the edge of it.
2 classic grit onsights fecked. :0(
Fell off LU again the following year but that was just a step down and slump into my harness when I ran out of beans.
Head first whipper after barn dooring off the final move of the crux sequence on Left Unconquerable and falling with my foot caught behind the runner.
Falling from the start of the roof section on The Sloth when my foot popped. Fell past the ledge, whacking my left wrist on the edge of it.
2 classic grit onsights fecked. :0(
Fell off LU again the following year but that was just a step down and slump into my harness when I ran out of beans.
In reply to Ciderslider:
That's easy for me it was "The Scream" on Mingulay.
I fell half a rope length after pulling a loose block off from the last tricky move on what would have been an onsight first ascent. My scream was heard on the other side of the island!
Fear, disapointment, frustration all wrapped up in a never ending cry... Too much time to think... I wish I'd taken the right hand line... will the RP hold... no! Will the cams stay in behind the boomimg flake, will they... yes!
Thank God, the next stop was the sea.
Although the best route is really the alternative right hand line that I climbed with Karin another year. "K 'n' S Special" follows the same start but moves right and completely avoids the area of the previous incident and is probably the best new route I've climbed!
That's easy for me it was "The Scream" on Mingulay.
I fell half a rope length after pulling a loose block off from the last tricky move on what would have been an onsight first ascent. My scream was heard on the other side of the island!
Fear, disapointment, frustration all wrapped up in a never ending cry... Too much time to think... I wish I'd taken the right hand line... will the RP hold... no! Will the cams stay in behind the boomimg flake, will they... yes!
Thank God, the next stop was the sea.
Although the best route is really the alternative right hand line that I climbed with Karin another year. "K 'n' S Special" follows the same start but moves right and completely avoids the area of the previous incident and is probably the best new route I've climbed!
In reply to Ciderslider:
I don't think I have taken a whipper off a really memorably good route. Loads of slumps and slips plus a few short falls off good and generally short routes (Demon Wall and Atomic, Pull my Daisy, Clematis, Grip City Dude) but nothing I'd call a whipper.
The only whippers I've taken have been sport climbing on routes I mostly remember for the length of the fall!
jk
I don't think I have taken a whipper off a really memorably good route. Loads of slumps and slips plus a few short falls off good and generally short routes (Demon Wall and Atomic, Pull my Daisy, Clematis, Grip City Dude) but nothing I'd call a whipper.
The only whippers I've taken have been sport climbing on routes I mostly remember for the length of the fall!
jk
In reply to Ciderslider: Mine was Candyman in the Great Zawn at bossi. I done all the hard bit and got in the only runner worth having (a 2 cam in a horizontal at about halfway) did this half mantleshelf and the side hold I was using to straighten up just came off without warning. I went about 20ft and the cam did it's job.
My belayer, Geraldine, said are you coming down then 'sod that it's in the bag, especially now I know the cam holds'
My belayer, Geraldine, said are you coming down then 'sod that it's in the bag, especially now I know the cam holds'
In reply to Ciderslider:
A few 'slumps' which don't really count but I did nearly end in the sea on my first try at Lucky Strike.
A few 'slumps' which don't really count but I did nearly end in the sea on my first try at Lucky Strike.
In reply to Al Evans: Actually I've had loads of whippers, not sure why that one was memorable. When still a schoolboy climbing with just a sisal rope tied round my waist, I took a 20 footer while trying a new route on Rivelin Needle, I was lucky, Pete Crew had placed a peg while doing the girdle some weeks before and I'd reached and clipped it before falling off.
May mate did brilliantly to hold me on a waist belay, I was just above the deck and he lowered me down, I couldn't speak for several minutes, totally winded. I think the route we were trying is now E4 or something but we did manage to get to the top by going up to the peg then traversing left onto Original Route. Our first summiting of Rivelin Needle.
I think this may have been taken earlier in the day, same gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=108315
May mate did brilliantly to hold me on a waist belay, I was just above the deck and he lowered me down, I couldn't speak for several minutes, totally winded. I think the route we were trying is now E4 or something but we did manage to get to the top by going up to the peg then traversing left onto Original Route. Our first summiting of Rivelin Needle.
I think this may have been taken earlier in the day, same gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=108315
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Quality!
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
>
> Dug out this fall from a classic Roof at the Roaches
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150402504242952&set=vb.746377951...
>
> Dug out this fall from a classic Roof at the Roaches
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150402504242952&set=vb.746377951...
Quality!
In reply to Ciderslider:
As stated on a previous thread, my "best" whipper was most of the way down Heartless Hare. I'd made it through the sidepull (?) smeary sequence and up to higher holds and was very close to home and dry when I had a realisation of where I was, lost focus, and down I went. The (low) side-runner and probably some nifty belaying from my partner saved me from a hard impact but I did hit the ground on rope stretch. I didn't get back on it and it probably did stop/save (?) me from pushing even harder on bold slabs. Maybe a good thing on reflection but hard to know really.
As stated on a previous thread, my "best" whipper was most of the way down Heartless Hare. I'd made it through the sidepull (?) smeary sequence and up to higher holds and was very close to home and dry when I had a realisation of where I was, lost focus, and down I went. The (low) side-runner and probably some nifty belaying from my partner saved me from a hard impact but I did hit the ground on rope stretch. I didn't get back on it and it probably did stop/save (?) me from pushing even harder on bold slabs. Maybe a good thing on reflection but hard to know really.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Strapiombante - lunging for the top. Took a massive whipper and just missed hitting John Dawes who was wandering past. He was highly amused and told me to get back up there reach slightly further left, which I did.
Strapiombante - lunging for the top. Took a massive whipper and just missed hitting John Dawes who was wandering past. He was highly amused and told me to get back up there reach slightly further left, which I did.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Probably the biggest whipper I've taken is off Left Wall, from the very last move on the left finish, to about a 3rd of the way up the wall. My belayer wasn't really paying attention.
My 'favourite' whipper was taken off a route called Talons E2(+++!) at Paviland on Gower. It's a cracking route as it traverses diagonally up and out, from the safety of a wide groove, on deep finger pockets. Which, naturally, end up disappearing, and send the unprepared climber flying into empty space. Great stuff.
Probably the biggest whipper I've taken is off Left Wall, from the very last move on the left finish, to about a 3rd of the way up the wall. My belayer wasn't really paying attention.
My 'favourite' whipper was taken off a route called Talons E2(+++!) at Paviland on Gower. It's a cracking route as it traverses diagonally up and out, from the safety of a wide groove, on deep finger pockets. Which, naturally, end up disappearing, and send the unprepared climber flying into empty space. Great stuff.
In reply to AJM:
"Wild Sex" (pumpy 6b) at Kaly. I think I went the wrong way at the top, got horribly pumped, was at the lower off and then took flight. It's a long pitch and there's a fair old run-out between that last bolt and the lower off. I fell almost two thirds of the way down the crag (about 60ft). A mixture of factors, long final run-out, rope stretch and a much lighter belayer being dragged up the apron at the base of the crag. The rest of the crag did go quiet for a while but I'm pleased to say I was silent.. As I touched the lower off at finger tip stretch before taking flight, I ticked it. Wild ride indeed
> Oh, although if we are including sport, then
"Wild Sex" (pumpy 6b) at Kaly. I think I went the wrong way at the top, got horribly pumped, was at the lower off and then took flight. It's a long pitch and there's a fair old run-out between that last bolt and the lower off. I fell almost two thirds of the way down the crag (about 60ft). A mixture of factors, long final run-out, rope stretch and a much lighter belayer being dragged up the apron at the base of the crag. The rest of the crag did go quiet for a while but I'm pleased to say I was silent.. As I touched the lower off at finger tip stretch before taking flight, I ticked it. Wild ride indeed
In reply to teflonpete: You're not my evil twin are you
Apart from the sloth your whippers are a carbon copy of mine
Apart from the sloth your whippers are a carbon copy of mine
In reply to Ciderslider:
Face Race LPT - I'd made it to the top few feet where it joins an old E2 or something but was totally pumped. Managed to get he clip in, pulled the rope up, poked it feebly at the gate then fell off about 40'
Face Race LPT - I'd made it to the top few feet where it joins an old E2 or something but was totally pumped. Managed to get he clip in, pulled the rope up, poked it feebly at the gate then fell off about 40'
In reply to Ciderslider:
I think the barn door is popular way to fall off LU. :0)
> (In reply to teflonpete) You're not my evil twin are you
>
> Apart from the sloth your whippers are a carbon copy of mine
>
> Apart from the sloth your whippers are a carbon copy of mine
I think the barn door is popular way to fall off LU. :0)
In reply to teflonpete: Yes, this is true - it's the preferred method of departure from that route
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Nice one Gordon, I've also taken a whipper off that one, but not to the extent of yours for the reason you state. Although I did leave a lovely red line on the arete of a block, in my haste to leave the route.
Climbers Club Direct is the best route I've taken a whipper on, also the site of my biggest whipper. I did a lot of toing and frowing near the top of the second pitch and ended up barn dooring off. Landed inverted not far off the stance. My belayer went into an overhang. It left me with some impressive seat belt type injuries across my lower back and an inability to lift my left leg. Gutted when I had to pull on the ropes seconding it. Thankfully I went back years ago to slay the demons, although they never disappear fully.
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
>
> Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
>
>
> Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
>
Nice one Gordon, I've also taken a whipper off that one, but not to the extent of yours for the reason you state. Although I did leave a lovely red line on the arete of a block, in my haste to leave the route.
Climbers Club Direct is the best route I've taken a whipper on, also the site of my biggest whipper. I did a lot of toing and frowing near the top of the second pitch and ended up barn dooring off. Landed inverted not far off the stance. My belayer went into an overhang. It left me with some impressive seat belt type injuries across my lower back and an inability to lift my left leg. Gutted when I had to pull on the ropes seconding it. Thankfully I went back years ago to slay the demons, although they never disappear fully.
In reply to Ciderslider:
My big lobs have been off Crow, at Cheddar, Amanita and Captain Swing, at Avon, all about 25 - 30 footers, although I did take quite a respectable lob off Arms Race a few weeks ago...
My big lobs have been off Crow, at Cheddar, Amanita and Captain Swing, at Avon, all about 25 - 30 footers, although I did take quite a respectable lob off Arms Race a few weeks ago...
In reply to Ciderslider:
I'm not a huge fan of falling off so haven't had many 'big-air' moments. My best has to be Strapiombante at Froggatt, where I fluffed the top out and only missed the floor a sufficiently small margin that when I eventually ended up the correct way up I could stand up. I also swung far enough past Strapadictomy that I could wave to the chap who was insitu on Strapiombo.
I'm not a huge fan of falling off so haven't had many 'big-air' moments. My best has to be Strapiombante at Froggatt, where I fluffed the top out and only missed the floor a sufficiently small margin that when I eventually ended up the correct way up I could stand up. I also swung far enough past Strapadictomy that I could wave to the chap who was insitu on Strapiombo.
In reply to Ciderslider: Direct start to Stoners Highway in Yosemite. And I was seconding it. A leader fall would have been far less impressive at the same point. The micro-second that the krab disengaged from the bolt, the one and only piece of pro I might add, my feet disengaged from the rock.
In reply to Ciderslider: If we're allowed oned where we hurt too,
A good whipper off Suspense at Lawrencefield at the crux. A poor micro-cam came out and I took a little dip in the foul pool when the good nuts held, but I don't really remember because I smacked my head on the wall too.
No fewer than 13 chaps from Mountain Rescue came
A good whipper off Suspense at Lawrencefield at the crux. A poor micro-cam came out and I took a little dip in the foul pool when the good nuts held, but I don't really remember because I smacked my head on the wall too.
No fewer than 13 chaps from Mountain Rescue came
In reply to Reach>Talent: Happy memories....I've done that one too
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
My mum made me that jumper, I think tubby Austin's made most of his, hence his name tubby and mine porky, mums were into nurture in those days
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> Blimey, Al, you look like Alan Austin!
>
> jcm
>
> Blimey, Al, you look like Alan Austin!
>
> jcm
My mum made me that jumper, I think tubby Austin's made most of his, hence his name tubby and mine porky, mums were into nurture in those days
In reply to Ciderslider: Two twenty footers from the Hades "ledge"? It was covered with sandy shite and I was pumped to puking. Only time I've fallen. Too careful usually.
In reply to David Alcock:
Not one that happened to me, but years ago I saw Chris Wright fall off the final crack of Five Finger Exercise. He was tired and had tried to do the top crack without placing any gear. His belayer (Martin from Blacks) took off and they ended up dangling next to each other in mid air.
Not one that happened to me, but years ago I saw Chris Wright fall off the final crack of Five Finger Exercise. He was tired and had tried to do the top crack without placing any gear. His belayer (Martin from Blacks) took off and they ended up dangling next to each other in mid air.
In reply to wilkesley: I've caught that fall before - my mate got a round of applause from a club of old-timers at the crag who'd obviously done the route many times before.
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Now that's a real fall. An awesomely gutsy attempt. Cruel too, when you came so near to topping out.
Now that's a real fall. An awesomely gutsy attempt. Cruel too, when you came so near to topping out.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Took about a 50' off Pleasure Dome at Stennis. Called for slack and jumped for the 'jug'. Ended up w-a-y down the wall. Top roped what was to become Grey English Morning to get back to my high-point. Got it 2nd go by moving a bit further right - if all else fails, follow the holds!
Chris
Took about a 50' off Pleasure Dome at Stennis. Called for slack and jumped for the 'jug'. Ended up w-a-y down the wall. Top roped what was to become Grey English Morning to get back to my high-point. Got it 2nd go by moving a bit further right - if all else fails, follow the holds!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
"Took about a 50' off Pleasure Dome at Stennis. Called for slack and jumped for the 'jug'. Ended up w-a-y down the wall. Top roped what was to become Grey English Morning to get back to my high-point. Got it 2nd go by moving a bit further right - if all else fails, follow the holds!"
I wish I'd done that, I rested my arms by sitting on the gear
"Took about a 50' off Pleasure Dome at Stennis. Called for slack and jumped for the 'jug'. Ended up w-a-y down the wall. Top roped what was to become Grey English Morning to get back to my high-point. Got it 2nd go by moving a bit further right - if all else fails, follow the holds!"
I wish I'd done that, I rested my arms by sitting on the gear
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Reoccurring theme, I took a nice lob of this managing to kick my last cam on the way past it. The rope went tight then the cam popped at just the right time to allow me to continue my journey upside down. Still not been back.
> (In reply to Ciderslider)
>
> Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
>
> Kelly's Overhang in 1970. Long before the days of friends, you couldn't get any gear in the crux break (which is a bit like a handrail). Your last runner was a huge sling round the protuding block below - the krab on the runner being at least 10 feet below the crux moves. I fell off the crux step to the right (I really thought I'd made it), and ended up with my feet just two feet off the deck.
Reoccurring theme, I took a nice lob of this managing to kick my last cam on the way past it. The rope went tight then the cam popped at just the right time to allow me to continue my journey upside down. Still not been back.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Void at Tremadog - it turned out to be wet, so I fell off, but after my efforts it was a bit drier, so I got back on and climbed to a new wet bit, and fell off. And repeat. The falls kept on getting longer and longer, and I got more and more pumped, so struggled more and more to get gear in. Got to the top in the end though. I still need to go back and do it properly, but it appears to have got harder since......
Void at Tremadog - it turned out to be wet, so I fell off, but after my efforts it was a bit drier, so I got back on and climbed to a new wet bit, and fell off. And repeat. The falls kept on getting longer and longer, and I got more and more pumped, so struggled more and more to get gear in. Got to the top in the end though. I still need to go back and do it properly, but it appears to have got harder since......
In reply to nniff: First time I did Void I seconded it and fell off in the corner. It's amazing how far out you swing. The second time I led it and found it far less intimidating. And didn't fall off.
In reply to TimKnight: You certainly made mine mate, maximum whipper respect
In reply to Ciderslider: Fell off very near the top of Darius through a combination of rope drag and a broken hold, i ended up by the rotting cams at the possible belay stance. Took a fair few on grit including Regent Street, Great West Road, Moon Walk.
In reply to wilkesley:
Can u get anything in the final flake, when i led it i jst assumed the final gear was the cams in the break and legged it as fast as i cud.
> (In reply to davidalcock)
>
> Not one that happened to me, but years ago I saw Chris Wright fall off the final crack of Five Finger Exercise. He was tired and had tried to do the top crack without placing any gear. His belayer (Martin from Blacks) took off and they ended up dangling next to each other in mid air.
>
> Not one that happened to me, but years ago I saw Chris Wright fall off the final crack of Five Finger Exercise. He was tired and had tried to do the top crack without placing any gear. His belayer (Martin from Blacks) took off and they ended up dangling next to each other in mid air.
Can u get anything in the final flake, when i led it i jst assumed the final gear was the cams in the break and legged it as fast as i cud.
In reply to Adam Moroz:
Yep, pretty sure it's a green camalot.
Yep, pretty sure it's a green camalot.
In reply to Ciderslider:
I took a small fall (with gear at headheight) off Diagonal on Dinas Mot with several RPs above my head. My partner thought I was going to fall straight past the belay! Two of the RPs were good and held though!!
I took a small fall (with gear at headheight) off Diagonal on Dinas Mot with several RPs above my head. My partner thought I was going to fall straight past the belay! Two of the RPs were good and held though!!
In reply to Ciderslider:
Taken quite a few whippers, around 20 yrs ago fell off `Weasles Rip my Flesh`, I was about 10 ft above the thread and completely froze, had to jump off onto the thread...quite worrying as I did not know the state of the thread and if it had failed I was looking at a big ground fall, luckily it held and only suffered a sprained ankle !
Taken quite a few whippers, around 20 yrs ago fell off `Weasles Rip my Flesh`, I was about 10 ft above the thread and completely froze, had to jump off onto the thread...quite worrying as I did not know the state of the thread and if it had failed I was looking at a big ground fall, luckily it held and only suffered a sprained ankle !
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
It wasn't, but he was falling for long enough that I had sufficient time to realise that holding a factor 2 fall onto that belay wasn't going to be very fun at all, before the gear held him.
Oswald, it was a size 0.5 cam, not RPs x
> (In reply to James Oswald)
>
> Sorry, but that's not really a whipper.
>
> Sorry, but that's not really a whipper.
It wasn't, but he was falling for long enough that I had sufficient time to realise that holding a factor 2 fall onto that belay wasn't going to be very fun at all, before the gear held him.
Oswald, it was a size 0.5 cam, not RPs x
In reply to victim of mathematics:
There were definitely some RPs around the cam. My memory fails, I'm getting old.
There were definitely some RPs around the cam. My memory fails, I'm getting old.
In reply to Ciderslider: The best route I've fallen off was probably off the final struggle on Climbers Club Direct. Should of struggled harder rather than wimpering. Most recent was pulling a chunk off Howhard in Avon - big upside down fall.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Stepped on my rope trying to reverse a move on p3 of the Long Reach, but since the resultant fall lasted about 10 seconds it can hardly be described as a "whipper".
Stepped on my rope trying to reverse a move on p3 of the Long Reach, but since the resultant fall lasted about 10 seconds it can hardly be described as a "whipper".
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
I did that one in 1976, I'm surprised there's anything left of that route!
> Most recent was pulling a chunk off Howhard in Avon - big upside down fall.
I did that one in 1976, I'm surprised there's anything left of that route!
In reply to rogerwebb: I found it solid mostly. I think I made one move too far up the dihedral onto a loose unclimbed patch, rather than stepping out right to the rib.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Tales of Yankee Power at High Tor. Was preparing to throw for the jug when my feet popped and off I went. Managed to kick out the gear in the flake on the way down so the bit that actually stopped me was in original route where Tales leaves it. Circa 45ft fall hitting the tree stump on rope stretch.
Tales of Yankee Power at High Tor. Was preparing to throw for the jug when my feet popped and off I went. Managed to kick out the gear in the flake on the way down so the bit that actually stopped me was in original route where Tales leaves it. Circa 45ft fall hitting the tree stump on rope stretch.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
That is such a familiar tale even after 37 years
That is such a familiar tale even after 37 years
In reply to Ciderslider:
Centipede at Raven Crag (Langdale). Got around the traverse onto the slab, place a cam in the break, climbed up to the top of the nice easy slab without placing any extra gear, went to place another peice and the handhold came out in my hand. Went a fair way, and shocked my belayer who couldn't see me.
Some guys walking along the top where very helpful to tell me I was off route where I was hanging!
Centipede at Raven Crag (Langdale). Got around the traverse onto the slab, place a cam in the break, climbed up to the top of the nice easy slab without placing any extra gear, went to place another peice and the handhold came out in my hand. Went a fair way, and shocked my belayer who couldn't see me.
Some guys walking along the top where very helpful to tell me I was off route where I was hanging!
In reply to Ciderslider: For my first go at an E1 I picked Bludgeon on Shepherds Crag. I fought my way to the top of the pinnacle and rested a while before making the mistake of trying to climb the crack direct (should have read the guidebook). My old man was belaying me and apparently I got larger in his vision very rapidly. I might have squeaked!
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer: Has that got any gear on it at all??
In reply to Ciderslider: I once unzipped most of the first pitch of Mecca.Everything came out,bolts.golos and a couple of wooden chocks.This was in 1968 and aiding of course.
In reply to SGD:
Barely. A single nut at half height behind a block. It was a long time ago now (2006 ish) but if I remember correctly it was a size six.
Anyway, I placed it climbed most of the crux but then failed spectacularly on the final move (was too tense for slab climbing) and took a full length whipper with my feet skimming the grass.
Not nice, would recommend not repeating.
> (In reply to A Longleat Boulderer) Has that got any gear on it at all??
Barely. A single nut at half height behind a block. It was a long time ago now (2006 ish) but if I remember correctly it was a size six.
Anyway, I placed it climbed most of the crux but then failed spectacularly on the final move (was too tense for slab climbing) and took a full length whipper with my feet skimming the grass.
Not nice, would recommend not repeating.
In reply to Ciderslider: Voie Frison-Roche on the Brevant above Chamonix. I took a lead fall off the corner crack on P4 about 2 bolts from the top of the pitch. I was trying to hand jam but the crack was widening and I'm crap at jamming so I just sort of let go without thinking! Awesome route with atmosphere and a wide range of climbing styles.
In reply to Ciderslider: I think its probably a fairly common one, but transferring from the finger carck to the upper slab on Blasphemy at Wimberry. It all seemed to be going so well then it wasnt!!!!!!!
In reply to Ciderslider: the file, higgar tor
i fell so far that my belayer gave me a high 5 as i was penduluming above his head!!
i fell so far that my belayer gave me a high 5 as i was penduluming above his head!!
In reply to Ciderslider: 25m very unexpected fall off the top of the main pitch of The Weaver at Tremadog. Top flake was very wet and I had been a bit cocky and slap-dash with gear placements. Most of it upside down, bled all over my tights and had rather a juicy head wound. Learnt a few lessons that weekend. Eric Jones gave me a free cuppa afterwards.
In reply to Ciderslider:
Big upside lob down from the finish moves of the Mau Mau, got my leg behind the rope and just missed the niche rest with my head as I went past.
I didn't see the crimps on the left and so I barn-doored off as I attempted to layback up the finish crack. I'd never been on a route of that grade and I just thought it was supposed to be that hard.
Big upside lob down from the finish moves of the Mau Mau, got my leg behind the rope and just missed the niche rest with my head as I went past.
I didn't see the crimps on the left and so I barn-doored off as I attempted to layback up the finish crack. I'd never been on a route of that grade and I just thought it was supposed to be that hard.
In reply to blackmountainbiker:
>bled all over my tights ...... Learnt a few lessons that weekend.
Not to wear tights if you're going to make an arse of yourself?!
In the pre-mobile era I once gave someone with a rather spectacular gash in their leg a lift from Bird Rock to Aberystwyth hospital, leaving me with a large portion of my rack missing and blood all over the front seat of my car. I learned a few lessons from that experience as well, among them the following:-
1. Dried blood smells more than you might think for longer than you might think.
2. Bearing (1) in mind, better to use other people's clothing to wrap up wounds.
3. Always climb on the other fellow's gear if possible.
jcm
>bled all over my tights ...... Learnt a few lessons that weekend.
Not to wear tights if you're going to make an arse of yourself?!
In the pre-mobile era I once gave someone with a rather spectacular gash in their leg a lift from Bird Rock to Aberystwyth hospital, leaving me with a large portion of my rack missing and blood all over the front seat of my car. I learned a few lessons from that experience as well, among them the following:-
1. Dried blood smells more than you might think for longer than you might think.
2. Bearing (1) in mind, better to use other people's clothing to wrap up wounds.
3. Always climb on the other fellow's gear if possible.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Not to wear tights.
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