In reply to BusyLizzie:
> An extremely moving and thought-provoking piece. In this as in other threads on here you speak straight from the heart. Thank you!!
> I am so, so glad that you found a way home.
Addiction and Climbing
While thankfully Goucho has found a way home, there may be others out there who are struggling. Certainly for me the original post has stirred up so much emotion that I can’t even begin to think straight. So what follows may not make a great deal of sense. But the very fact that I don’t want to think about it is telling me that I should think about it.
Where to begin? Somewhere. Anywhere. A couple of decades ago I was interviewing a well-known climbing writer. (It wasn’t Jim Perrin who gets blamed for most things!) As we were sitting chatting, his wife came in. X genially said, “This is Mick. He’s a climber.” At the mention of the ‘c’ word, momentarily contempt flashed in her eyes. It was in no way personal and I took no offence. When X said ‘climber’, for her he might as well have said ‘addict’. I’m guessing that, even twenty years ago, she’d met her unfair share of people who’d lost careers, relationships and lives to climbing. For her, no matter what else you’d done in life, being a climber meant one thing: you were an addict. Was she right or was she wrong?
Let’s go back a few more decades. Somewhere between the ages of five and eight, periodically I would be in a situation where I experienced real fear. (It wasn’t fear of sexual abuse – it was much more prosaic.) My safety was literally in someone else’s hands. I developed frissons of excitement, yearned for the experience to be repeated. It was edgy, scary. I loved it.
Around the end of this period, I met some hardcore cavers in the west of Ireland. I could sense the difference between them and others. Again there was the frisson of excitement. When I discovered mountains at thirteen, that frisson went into overdrive.
Dougal Haston’s climbing novel was entitled ‘Calculated Risk’. We’re climbers and mountaineers – calculated risk is what we engage in. Why do we do it? For me, there was always the frisson. In the celebrated words of Karl Wallenda, ‘Life is on the wire, the rest is just waiting.’ Alternatively, in the beautiful lyrics of Ruby Tuesday, ‘She just can’t be chained/to a life where nothing’s gained/and nothing’s lost/at such a cost.’
When we engage in calculated risk, we feel energised. We feel more alive. Winning can taste like the nectar of the gods.
But what about uncalculated risk? Hastons’s hero deliberately risked death by avalanche and survived. When Haston did likewise, sadly he died.
I think there’s a fundamental difference between risk where our actions have a high probability of determining the outcome and risk where our actions have a negligible probability of determining the outcome. The former is akin to the behaviour of a professional gambler, weighing the odds ever so carefully, making skilful moves. The latter is akin to what Mario Puzo termed ‘degenerate gambling’. You go on and on until you lose.
Why did Haston take such an uncalculated risk? My guess is that for him success would have been an affirmation what everything was fine, he was still a world-class mountaineer. (Please note: this is pure speculation and, whether correct or incorrect, implies absolutely no disrespect to Haston.)
Someone (I think Royal Robbins) once said that in climbing the Pathetic Fallacy is to think that because we succeed on a particular route the rest of our life is fine. Certainly while success may give us psychological strength, the rest of our life is… the rest of our life. Problems (for instance in relationships) will still be there. Often, due to the time and effort expended on climbing success, those problems will have intensified.
Jim Bridwell remarked that there’s a fine line between badass and dumb. Boy was he ever right! The problem with that fine line is that it’s most easily discerned with hindsight. As beginners, we wander over it all the time. But if we invoke Robbins’ Pathetic Fallacy, even as mature climbers, we can go over that line again and again. Every time we ‘win’ it’s telling us that all is fine. And it’s a monster adrenaline rush. We feel crazily alive. But really what we’re doing is anaesthetising ourselves to our wider lives and getting inexorably closer to our last day.
My feeling is that calculated risk is acceptable but the Pathetic Fallacy is a killer. Telling the difference sounds simple. When your life is awry, it can be very far from simple. Always, always, always when engaging in the risk business the best chance of survival is to trust your intuition and caustically honestly ask yourself: should I be doing this? (If you’re already on stimulants, your intuition will be nobbled and the answer is ‘no’ anyway.) If you get a bad feeling (literally) in your gut, walk away – if you still can.
I’ll stop in a moment, have probably said far too much already. But many of us will go through bad times in our lives and climbing can be a lethal additive to the cocktail of emotions. Some of us will simply have to live one day at a time – always. No guarantees. Three things I check every day of my life are my emotional state, my alcohol consumption and my degree of social isolation. The latter can be critical – especially for men. Males of my generation were brought up to ‘be men’, to deal with emotional stuff on their own. What utter bollox! As a crude generalisation, women cry with their mates; men cry alone. Cry alone and you’ll cry a whole lot harder and a whole lot longer. Put your hand up. Get help – just as Goucho did. Those who love you will thank you for it.
Mick